carguy1701

My I30 has been doing something strange with the steering for the last few years. At around 40 mph/whenever the trans shifts into 3rd gear (depending on how far open the throttle is open), the steering abruptly jerks to the right, regardless of where the steering wheel is (so that with the car traveling straight ahead, the steering wheel is noticeably off center). With the steering wheel straight, it will pull to the right, regardless of speed, unless the throttle is open more the ~25% or so, then it does what I described above.

My question is: what am I dealing with here? I know that my left side outer tie rod needs to be replaced (new outer and inner are sitting in my garage, waiting for install), so I know they're at least part of the problem (the right side outer and inner were new about year), but I have a hard time believing that a tie rod alone would cause this much of an issue. When I mentioned this issue to a coworker, he mentioned that his father-in-law had an I30 and this issue came up several times because the LCA bushings apparently go bad quite often, and that both the Dorman and Duralast ones have particularly crap bushings (full disclosure: the car has a Duralast LCA on the right hand side that was installed at the same time as the right side tie rods; the left side LCA was new 4 years ago, no idea what brand it is). The car has been aligned about 2-3 times in the last few years, but this issue keeps cropping up. This also wore out the inside shoulder of a pair of tires I bought in November 2013 after just 13 months.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

What you describe sure sounds like worn lca bushings. It will happen mostly on the right side of the car because of the high pressure power steering hose leaking. The power steering uses Dexron III ATF which seems to eat bushings.

carguy1701

That's just it, though: I've NEVER seen any power steering fluid where it shouldn't be. No leaks at all.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

OK, so you don't have an oil leak. That doesn't mean that a bushing can't go bad.

Have you crawled under the car and looked at the control arm bushings? Your tires wearing wouldn't be caused by the tie rod ends.

But another possibility is the strut bearing. Go under the hood and look at the nut on the strut rod. It should be dead center in that round opening. Grab the fender and push/pull the car side to side. If that nut moves, the bearing is bad. Just be careful that the hood doesn't fall and chop you fingers off.

carguy1701

True dat.

Not yet. I've been working long hours and when I come home I'm pretty tired. Would the bushings be visibly shot or would I need to pry on them with a pry bar (or similar object)?

The struts were new October 2013. Also, funnily enough, my hood struts are going as well.

EDIT: Did what you said regarding the strut bearing, no visible movement.

carguy1701

Is there any possibility that it might be the spool valve in the P/S pump?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know enough about the power steering pump to answer that.

But regarding hood struts, there is a brand called StrongArm Lift Supports. It seemed like every 2 years I was replacing the hood struts on my two Maximas. There was a discussion about this back in April of 2012 and I bought a pair for both my cars and thay are still as strong as day one. They are not the cheapest but they have lasted me and I open my hood a lot more than the average person.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sx_as?ke...-----------1-1

carguy1701

I'll admit it seems unlikely, as I haven't heard much if anything about power steering pumps going bad on A33s.

These guys?
Will look into it.

Anyway, getting back to the control arm bushings, I'll need a pry bar, right, or is there no suitable place to pry and check compliance?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

As long as you get the Strongarm model 6313, it doesn't matter who you buy it from. I got mine through Amazon so it was easy for me to look up.

On the lca, when the bushing is worn bad enough to be causing directional problems, usually you can tell by just looking at it. But if you were to get the wheel off the ground, I'm sure you could get it to move with a pry bar. It's just that there are no specific spots made for this, so it is your ingenuity on where to stick the pry bar. I would think that you want to try for a side-to-side type of prying, but any movement is not good.

carguy1701

Thought so. Will try that soon. Which bushing: front, rear, or both?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Since you don't know which one might be bad, I would think you should check them both. And since you are down there getting dirty, you might as well check the other lca for peace of mind.

carguy1701

Was planning on checking both LCAs. Just need to get a pry bar from somewhere.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you are the kind of person that works on their car, home or whatever, you need to invest in a pry bar or two of the various kinds.

For this task I would suggest a pry bar that looks like a big screwdriver that has a shaft that is about 12 inches long plus whatever the handle size is.

carguy1701

I know, and I am. Any specific brands? I generally buy tools from Harbor Freight because that's more or less what I can afford.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I'm a believer in "you get what you pay for". You buy cheap, you get cheap. Harbor Freight tools are not for constant, every day use. They are fine for the casual, once in a while user. They tend to break and/or wear out fast.

I have bought harbor Freight tools. Anytime I need a tool for a one time use, that's where I will go. But if I expect to be able to use that tool 10 years from now, I'll go elsewhere.

The common tools that you will use over and over, like wrenches, sockets, even screwdrivers, need to be quality. Don't cheap out on these!

For a pry bar, I still say get a quality tool. The cheap ones will bend.

carguy1701

Noted.

carguy1701

Finally got the front of the car in the air a week ago.

No noises from the rack when a friend turned it lock to lock.
Front bushing on the RF LCA is shot; didn't need to pry on it (doing the quick and dirty tie rod shake revealed something was up).
Forgot to ask said friend to bring his pry bar (because I'm an idiot sometimes) so I have no idea how the LF LCA bushings are.

New RF LCA has been ordered, will be here soon, then it's simply a matter of getting it put on.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You're getting there. Step by step.

carguy1701

Is of slow going thanks to having a full-time job.

A buddy of mine drove the car and thought that the RF ball joint was clunking as well. I didn't see any ball joint play when I had the front off the ground, but since ball joints are free with the purchase of a new control arm...