F/S: ( OHIO ) 1992 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd ((( $1200 FIRM )))
03-15-2008, 03:28 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
F/S: ( OHIO ) 1992 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd ((( $1200 FIRM )))
Price reduced to $1200 FIRM! ( a good deal..but Im in NO HURRY to sell this great running car )
1992 Nissan Maxima SE, 5spd, 211,500 miles 3.0L DOHC V6 ( VE30DE )..Maroon exterior...black/grey interior. White Gauge faces. Power Moonroof.
I bought this car not long ago... ( 3/11/08 )...but Im looking to sell it to get into something else, either of these is what Im looking into trading for:
* 90-93 Honda Accord 5spd
* 92-95 Honda Civic Hatch
* 88-91 Honda CRX
* 90-91 Honda Prelude Si
* 92-96 Honda Prelude Si
* 91-94 Nissan Sentra SE-R
* 89-92 Nissan 240SX "KA24DE"
* Nissan 200SX SE-R
* Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5spd
* 93-98 VW Jetta 5spd
heres the PROS.
PROS:
* Oil changed @210K w/ Castrol Synthetic Blend
* tune up ( plugs/ Individual coil packs )
* 80% tread left on all tires
* Sony CD player w/ Remote Control and Infinity 300W speakers ( BOSE speakers were blown )
* Timing Chain instead of belt
* NO VTC ticking/clacking
* Factory Alarm
* Tinted Windows
* No leaks
* Gets 21 city / 26 highway ( pretty good miles per gallon for a DOHC V6 )
Now, the CONS
CONS:
* Passenger side CV axle needs replaced ( clicks turning in either direction )
* Throwout bearing needs replaced ( with the clutch pedal pressed..its quiet..but with your foot off the clutch..its a little noisy..NOT loud..but you can hear a rubbing noise...its quiet on the highway and regular cruising ) *DOES NOT EFFECT THE WAY IT DRIVES*
* Little dings and scrapes ( not bad looking...but its not perfect )
* Rear driver window regulator doesn't work ( window wont go down )
* Rear passenger side window goes down slow.
* Rear Quarter rust ( not bad )
if you have any questions...feel free to call me ( 419-734-1806 ) Kenny.
$1200 FIRM
Im in NO HURRY to sell but, if you have either of those cars I have stated ..Im willing to trade straight up! ( title for title )..if you're looking for power, this car has POWER! ..it just needs a little TLC.
My rating on this car is between ( Good/Average ) its in good shape for what its age and mileage. Its far from junk, but at the same time..Im looking for something else.
$1200 FIRM
1992 Nissan Maxima SE, 5spd, 211,500 miles 3.0L DOHC V6 ( VE30DE )..Maroon exterior...black/grey interior. White Gauge faces. Power Moonroof.
I bought this car not long ago... ( 3/11/08 )...but Im looking to sell it to get into something else, either of these is what Im looking into trading for:
* 90-93 Honda Accord 5spd
* 92-95 Honda Civic Hatch
* 88-91 Honda CRX
* 90-91 Honda Prelude Si
* 92-96 Honda Prelude Si
* 91-94 Nissan Sentra SE-R
* 89-92 Nissan 240SX "KA24DE"
* Nissan 200SX SE-R
* Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5spd
* 93-98 VW Jetta 5spd
heres the PROS.
PROS:
* Oil changed @210K w/ Castrol Synthetic Blend
* tune up ( plugs/ Individual coil packs )
* 80% tread left on all tires
* Sony CD player w/ Remote Control and Infinity 300W speakers ( BOSE speakers were blown )
* Timing Chain instead of belt
* NO VTC ticking/clacking
* Factory Alarm
* Tinted Windows
* No leaks
* Gets 21 city / 26 highway ( pretty good miles per gallon for a DOHC V6 )
Now, the CONS
CONS:
* Passenger side CV axle needs replaced ( clicks turning in either direction )
* Throwout bearing needs replaced ( with the clutch pedal pressed..its quiet..but with your foot off the clutch..its a little noisy..NOT loud..but you can hear a rubbing noise...its quiet on the highway and regular cruising ) *DOES NOT EFFECT THE WAY IT DRIVES*
* Little dings and scrapes ( not bad looking...but its not perfect )
* Rear driver window regulator doesn't work ( window wont go down )
* Rear passenger side window goes down slow.
* Rear Quarter rust ( not bad )
if you have any questions...feel free to call me ( 419-734-1806 ) Kenny.
$1200 FIRM
Im in NO HURRY to sell but, if you have either of those cars I have stated ..Im willing to trade straight up! ( title for title )..if you're looking for power, this car has POWER! ..it just needs a little TLC.
My rating on this car is between ( Good/Average ) its in good shape for what its age and mileage. Its far from junk, but at the same time..Im looking for something else.
$1200 FIRM
Last edited by 92_SE_VE30DE; 03-31-2008 at 05:06 PM. Reason: change in price
03-21-2008, 11:50 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
sure....here you go 
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
03-21-2008, 08:25 PM
#6
sure....here you go
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
If you haven't had an answer to the rear plugs, they are fairly easy. You don't need to remove the manifold or anything. You just need a long extension. What I do is unscrew the plug, then use a long extendable magnet to grab the plug. I also use the magnet to set the plug in.
Also, I have raced (at the track) a lot of different Hondas. Head-to-head, I beat this guy who has an h22a accord. I have also beaten a couple of lightly modded Preludes (H/I/E) and a couple of 00 Civic Si.
03-23-2008, 11:14 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
That is strange. It looks like the roof is the same (can't tell for sure) but I have never seen a switch like that.
If you haven't had an answer to the rear plugs, they are fairly easy. You don't need to remove the manifold or anything. You just need a long extension. What I do is unscrew the plug, then use a long extendable magnet to grab the plug. I also use the magnet to set the plug in.
Also, I have raced (at the track) a lot of different Hondas. Head-to-head, I beat this guy who has an h22a accord. I have also beaten a couple of lightly modded Preludes (H/I/E) and a couple of 00 Civic Si.
If you haven't had an answer to the rear plugs, they are fairly easy. You don't need to remove the manifold or anything. You just need a long extension. What I do is unscrew the plug, then use a long extendable magnet to grab the plug. I also use the magnet to set the plug in.
Also, I have raced (at the track) a lot of different Hondas. Head-to-head, I beat this guy who has an h22a accord. I have also beaten a couple of lightly modded Preludes (H/I/E) and a couple of 00 Civic Si.
and I have HEARD about these stock 3rd gens being pretty beastly for being stock.
but after this thing hits 1/2 a tank...it just sucks the gas down..( thats what I dont like about this car )
its like..when its on full...its all gravy..and it seems the fuel needle isn't moving for at least 90 miles...then as soon as it hits half....BY-BY fuel mileage.
maybe if im lucky...I'll get 150 out of half a tank to empty...why do this car suck down the fuel after the half mark?from full to half...is like 250-260 but after that...YEAH RIGHT....fuel mileage ..whats that??
03-24-2008, 03:56 AM
#8
sure....here you go
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=98942 ( Scroll down thread for pics )
^ many pics inside link!
btw, good luck with the sale.
03-25-2008, 06:39 AM
#9
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Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
03-25-2008, 06:23 PM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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03-25-2008, 06:36 PM
#12
03-25-2008, 07:33 PM
#13
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Posts: 37
I dont know alot about these cars....I just know the basics..and I know they have pretty decent power for what they are....especially the 3rd gen with the VE30DE
04-02-2008, 07:07 AM
#15
yeah..I kinda figured that much about the back plugs when I was looking at it a couple of days ago.
and I have HEARD about these stock 3rd gens being pretty beastly for being stock.
but after this thing hits 1/2 a tank...it just sucks the gas down..( thats what I dont like about this car )
its like..when its on full...its all gravy..and it seems the fuel needle isn't moving for at least 90 miles...then as soon as it hits half....BY-BY fuel mileage. maybe if im lucky...I'll get 150 out of half a tank to empty...why do this car suck down the fuel after the half mark?
from full to half...is like 250-260 but after that...YEAH RIGHT....fuel mileage ..whats that??
and I have HEARD about these stock 3rd gens being pretty beastly for being stock.
but after this thing hits 1/2 a tank...it just sucks the gas down..( thats what I dont like about this car )
its like..when its on full...its all gravy..and it seems the fuel needle isn't moving for at least 90 miles...then as soon as it hits half....BY-BY fuel mileage.
maybe if im lucky...I'll get 150 out of half a tank to empty...why do this car suck down the fuel after the half mark?from full to half...is like 250-260 but after that...YEAH RIGHT....fuel mileage ..whats that??
Your gauge must not be working right. Still, you should fill it up and reset the counter. Drive it xxx miles, then fill up again. Take the xxx miles and divide by the gallons you used.
If the mpg is below 20, there could be something going on with your car. Around town, my car doesn't get that great of mpg (I drive it kind of fast). However, on the freeway I can get 400+ miles on a tank. I have calculated anywhere from 27-30 mpg. I think some of it is mods. The y-pipe, aftermarket exhaust and I guess the udp and other things must play a part. I also keep my tires inflated properly.
04-05-2008, 08:34 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
Free bump...
Your gauge must not be working right. Still, you should fill it up and reset the counter. Drive it xxx miles, then fill up again. Take the xxx miles and divide by the gallons you used.
If the mpg is below 20, there could be something going on with your car. Around town, my car doesn't get that great of mpg (I drive it kind of fast). However, on the freeway I can get 400+ miles on a tank. I have calculated anywhere from 27-30 mpg. I think some of it is mods. The y-pipe, aftermarket exhaust and I guess the udp and other things must play a part. I also keep my tires inflated properly.
Your gauge must not be working right. Still, you should fill it up and reset the counter. Drive it xxx miles, then fill up again. Take the xxx miles and divide by the gallons you used.
If the mpg is below 20, there could be something going on with your car. Around town, my car doesn't get that great of mpg (I drive it kind of fast). However, on the freeway I can get 400+ miles on a tank. I have calculated anywhere from 27-30 mpg. I think some of it is mods. The y-pipe, aftermarket exhaust and I guess the udp and other things must play a part. I also keep my tires inflated properly.
10-24-2008, 06:43 AM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
I hate to say it, but the noise you described is input shaft bearings = transmission overhaul needed, throwout bearing tends to cause noise with clutch disengaged (pedal on floor) or a squek only during initial engagement/disengagement.
That is still a whicked good price regardless, car is very clean and I would still recommend it to someone for $1k in a heartbeat, just don't want to see someone not know what they are getting into.
That is still a whicked good price regardless, car is very clean and I would still recommend it to someone for $1k in a heartbeat, just don't want to see someone not know what they are getting into.
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