ViciousMo's 98 Maxima
01-12-2012, 08:48 PM
#45
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688026287/http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688026287/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/moeedq/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688137987/http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688137987/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/moeedq/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688154837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688154837/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/moeedq/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688137987/http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688137987/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/moeedq/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688154837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/moeedq/6688154837/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/moeedq/, on Flickr
Last edited by VisciousMo; 01-12-2012 at 09:11 PM.
01-16-2012, 04:17 PM
#51
Thank ya!
THAT FEELS GOOD! thanks man!
29th is a Sunday right? I get out at 8:00 PM dude from work. It's tough taking days off. When I do, I go see my family in Houston. Wish we set it up later in the day, but alot of ya'll have kids.
02-03-2012, 09:32 PM
#58
02-12-2012, 11:10 AM
#64
Mmm, have fun. It's a straightforward install, but give yourself a weekend and not just one day. The front is easy, the rear is the pain:
To get it out, you will have to take off the X-Member, bolts holding the rear motor mount to the x-member, the bolt that goes straight through the mount, and the bolts holding the rear mount bracket that is attached to the engine. After that use a combo of over/under the engine to snag out those bolts. If you are lucky, maybe you won't snap or strip any of those like mine did. Install was so slow for me because everything in the undercarriage was "16 winters rusty" - didn't do the rears because all the bolts rounded, so mech did em. But I was on the right track
Once they're in, enjoy the power! I definitely feel a difference, and I only have shorty headers
To get it out, you will have to take off the X-Member, bolts holding the rear motor mount to the x-member, the bolt that goes straight through the mount, and the bolts holding the rear mount bracket that is attached to the engine. After that use a combo of over/under the engine to snag out those bolts. If you are lucky, maybe you won't snap or strip any of those like mine did. Install was so slow for me because everything in the undercarriage was "16 winters rusty" - didn't do the rears because all the bolts rounded, so mech did em. But I was on the right track
Once they're in, enjoy the power! I definitely feel a difference, and I only have shorty headers
Last edited by D I R T Y I 3 0; 02-12-2012 at 11:15 AM.
02-12-2012, 02:40 PM
#65
Mmm, have fun. It's a straightforward install, but give yourself a weekend and not just one day. The front is easy, the rear is the pain:
To get it out, you will have to take off the X-Member, bolts holding the rear motor mount to the x-member [[[you can leave these attached]]], the bolt that goes straight through the mount, and the bolts holding the rear mount bracket that is attached to the engine. After that use a combo of over/under the engine to snag out those bolts. If you are lucky, maybe you won't snap or strip any of those like mine did. Install was so slow for me because everything in the undercarriage was "16 winters rusty" - didn't do the rears because all the bolts rounded, so mech did em. But I was on the right track
Once they're in, enjoy the power! I definitely feel a difference, and I only have shorty headers
To get it out, you will have to take off the X-Member, bolts holding the rear motor mount to the x-member [[[you can leave these attached]]], the bolt that goes straight through the mount, and the bolts holding the rear mount bracket that is attached to the engine. After that use a combo of over/under the engine to snag out those bolts. If you are lucky, maybe you won't snap or strip any of those like mine did. Install was so slow for me because everything in the undercarriage was "16 winters rusty" - didn't do the rears because all the bolts rounded, so mech did em. But I was on the right track
Once they're in, enjoy the power! I definitely feel a difference, and I only have shorty headers
02-12-2012, 04:29 PM
#66
I just installed a set of these on a local 4th gen. We knocked it out in 8 hours including a lunch break. In addition to what dirty130 mentioned, we also pulled the intake, uim, and radiator fans for added clearance. You shouldn't have any issues as long as there's no rust.
Also pulled out everything schmelly said. Upload pics of install Vicious
02-12-2012, 06:02 PM
#67
Almost forgot to mention, the secret to an easy install is to drop the crossmember as soon as you have enough room to break the motor mount bolts from the top.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 02-12-2012 at 06:06 PM.
02-12-2012, 10:39 PM
#68
Yeah, I Will. Thanks for all these tips.
I will probably have rust, but nothing crazy. My motor mounts were OEM, they were slightly rusted. I couldn't break it with my breaker bar. My buddie's cordless impact did it without breaking a sweat. I can drop my cross member (including rear motor mount bolts) in literally 10 minutes. The tools my friend has access to is ridiculous. I don't have a lift, but the jack he has gets my car miraculously high (I'm lowered quite a bit)!
Are there any bolts I can access through the engine bay or under my car I should PB blast before hand? My headers should ship out Monday.
Oh and, I have a 98 non cali spec. I'm lost what I'm doing with my 02's. I don't care about my CEL as I get inspection from my friend who ignores it.
Last edited by VisciousMo; 02-12-2012 at 10:43 PM.
02-12-2012, 10:41 PM
#69
Any else tips? I can do this quite easily as I JUST did my poly motor mounts. the bolts are fresh.
02-13-2012, 12:25 PM
#73
Yeah, the rear headers is a female dog. Taking off the rear motor mount is cake. I did it while installing my ACT clutch. Its super easy! Good luck with that rear header... you're gonna need it.
Last edited by VQtHuRtY; 02-14-2012 at 08:46 AM.
02-13-2012, 04:55 PM
#74
How did you take out the EGR tube from the header and solenoid?
02-14-2012, 03:27 PM
#75
I deleted my EGR the first time around. I undid the nut connecting the big header tube to that distribution block on the driver side of the engine. Never bothered trying to remove that tube from the header.
02-14-2012, 05:44 PM
#76
Oh i got you. Yeah my mechanic said those nuts for the tube were so stubborn he had to torch it off. When me and my friend looked at those nuts, we knew there was no way to get them out considering the tools we had and the fact everything rounded in the undercarriage. So it was game over for rears
If you need any help Vicious, feel free to hit me up but I'm sure schmelly would be of greater help lol
If you need any help Vicious, feel free to hit me up but I'm sure schmelly would be of greater help lol
02-15-2012, 08:09 AM
#77
I'm going to buy some exhaust studs before hand in case I break them. Anyone know the part # for local part stores (auto zone, advance etc). My local Nissan only has 4 in stock a $4.00 a piece.
02-15-2012, 08:41 AM
#78
You can't afford to break these bolts. If you do, there won't be a need for replacements. How do you plan to remove a broken stud? You need to soke all the bolts for a few hours, perhaps overnight. If they still won't give in, then torch them like the previous org member mentioned above. The heat will help loosing them up.
02-15-2012, 07:02 PM
#80