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Amerikaner83's new ride (w/ cheese and large fries)..)

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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
I'm jealous lol I'll get them eventually.
dude, not expensive at all man. I got them from the OP here:
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...ory-parts.html

Just give him a call, and he'll let you know price plus shipping...I paid 35 bucks IIRC. He's in Denver area, I recommend :-)
Old Feb 13, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
dude, not expensive at all man. I got them from the OP here.Just give him a call, and he'll let you know price plus shipping...I paid 35 bucks IIRC. He's in Denver area, I recommend :-)
I know, I was the one who originally asked about them in that thread lol
Old Feb 13, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #43  
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oh yeah lol indeed you were :-)
Old Feb 16, 2012 | 05:40 PM
  #44  
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Finally figured out the damn shifter...with some .org forum assistance :-)

the bulb is located under the "N". The connector is oriented East--West. Twisting the connector counter-clockwise to North--South will let it release. I just used one of the T-10 bulbs I had left over (WLED-x6: 6 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb), and below is the result...you can see the hotspotting on the N, right above. Mounting it back was a b!tch but I finally got it.

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I plan on ordering one of the T-10 base 360* HP LEDs in the Cool White to make it even and avoid the hotspotting.


I also did the following:

Dome light arrived (36SMD w/ festoon adapter):
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Key ring LED:
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So I ended up removing the whole steering column trim since I was a dum-dum and didn't actually realize the key ring area pops out. Whoops :-)

I also re-installed the instrument cluster LED that came loose last week.. fulll illumination FTW!

Last edited by Amerikaner83; Feb 16, 2012 at 08:48 PM.
Old Feb 22, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #45  
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More LED work:
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^^^Thinking of re-doing this...with a 1k resistor instead of the 470 ohm I used...way bright. OR I could use a 3mm amber or red led here as well...what do you guys think?



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Thinking of changing these out to blue, or maybe to LEDs that are not quite as bright...? Will decide after driving for a few nights.


So now I have to change out the Hazard switch as well LOL compared to the defrost switch I can barely tell it's illuminated :-) I'll probably throw a orange LED with a 1K resistor on that baby.

I am in the process of ordering some 360* LEDs from SuperBrightLEDs.com for the manual climate control setup...thinking pure white / cool white background, with BLUE indication LEDs.
Old Feb 22, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #46  
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ok, bought more LEDs for the keyring, climate control, and window switches (not so bright ones this time lol). Once I get a handle on what looks best I'm going to make a list of everything.

Going for white background and blue indicators on the CC unit. Ideally I'll have the LEDs by Saturday...so I can take them into work on Monday.
Old Feb 22, 2012 | 10:29 PM
  #47  
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I swear those headlights look brand new. lol.

Good stuff.
Old Feb 23, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #48  
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Yeah they look nice :-)


I'm going to post this here, mianly as a reminder for myself. But when I did my LEDs above they turned out HELLA bright....and very very white. So I tried something with my defrost LED that I will replicate with the bulbs on the window switches....blue silicone cover. When I pulled the defrost switch I noticed the colored cover on the bulb. I was like "sure why the hell not, try it out"...LOVE IT! Blue tint matches VERY WELL to gauge cluster, AND it's not as bright. Win-Win. Now I probably won't have a need for the other 3mm LEDs I purchased that are half-brightness when I can just add one of these little babies to each LED

They can be purchase at www.mcmaster.com . At their website, do a search (light bulb cover), you will be pointed to page 597 on the catalog, scroll down almost to the bottom page says "Colored Light Bulb Covers". The T1 3/4 covers are for the 5mm LED, and the T1 covers are for the 3mm LED. Colors are red, blue, amber, green, and yellow IIRC.

You buy them in packs of 10 for like 6 bucks...I know it's the same price as buying 3mm LEDs but with this, you don't have to muck up the PCBs again if you want different colors. Just swap the covers. I bought a pack of the blue ones, I'll see how they work on my window switch and update.

Last edited by Amerikaner83; Feb 23, 2012 at 08:31 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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Hazards with 3mm white LED + 470 Ohm resistor (plus re-using stock orange bulb cap), clock modded to never dim (and red sharpie on face of display, poor boy cellophane), and defrost switch with blue stock bulb cap...much better!!!

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edit - that is one weird time on the clock LOL

Last edited by Amerikaner83; Feb 23, 2012 at 08:30 PM.
Old Feb 28, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #50  
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Keyless entry now works! Thanks to a new BCM and receiver module from Maxima Joe!

Blue condoms on all my window switch LEDs all around...nice blue interior coming together nicely!

Yesterday I installed LEDs on Dimmer switch and Cruise Control switch...bluer and bluer each time!!!

Speaking of bluer and bluer...blue LED on keyring and now blue LED on auto-shifter...coming along, now to do the Climate control and radio with LED and I'm done!
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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A bit of snow during work today...
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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very nice car, lower that thing! (as soon as the snow goes away lol)
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #53  
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...and some presents waiting in the mailbox too!

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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83


A bit of snow during work today...
Jeez, that has to suck. It got up to about 80 here in Dallas today. Glad I dont live up north.
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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I LOVE this type of snow...wet snow, less than one inch. Doesn't freeze so its no biggie to drive in...the ***** is when it freezes, our snow up here in Seattle is so wet, everything is ice...and not the NE deep freeze ice...its the hover around freezing ice...a real PITA if you don't know what you're doing.

Ampire...I am not sure about the lowering...this car is already low with regard to driver positioning above road level... I have to bend down pretty good to get in the thing...but OTOH the tire gap is insane... my wife's Subaru Outback has a smaller gap.

IF I do end up lowering, it will be no more than 2 inches... but tbh it's not that high on the list of things to do.
Old Mar 5, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #56  
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Had a little time before the wife got home, so new wiper blades are installed and windshield waxed
Old Mar 7, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #57  
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Finished the LED interior...got her all buttoned up again.

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^^ Center console (Radio with white LEDs+blue bulb covers=nice faint blue backlighting)

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^^Blue filter from LEE Filter media shown above, in radio display

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^^ Slightly darker blue filter from LEE media shown above, in clock.

Changed out shifter LED from the bright blue to a less-bright white. Goes better with the subtle-blue of the radio. Mee likey!
Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:31 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
I LOVE this type of snow...wet snow, less than one inch. Doesn't freeze so its no biggie to drive in...the ***** is when it freezes, our snow up here in Seattle is so wet, everything is ice...and not the NE deep freeze ice...its the hover around freezing ice...a real PITA if you don't know what you're doing.

Ampire...I am not sure about the lowering...this car is already low with regard to driver positioning above road level... I have to bend down pretty good to get in the thing...but OTOH the tire gap is insane... my wife's Subaru Outback has a smaller gap.

IF I do end up lowering, it will be no more than 2 inches... but tbh it's not that high on the list of things to do.
yeah I know, when I lowered my max ~2.5" (stechs + illuminas), the wheel gap looked like that of a regular car but the car was seriously low otherwise, my subframe/crossmember would scrape on anything.
Old Mar 9, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
Finished the LED interior...got her all buttoned up again.


^^ Center console (Radio with white LEDs+blue bulb covers=nice faint blue backlighting)


^^Blue filter from LEE Filter media shown above, in radio display


^^ Slightly darker blue filter from LEE media shown above, in clock.

Changed out shifter LED from the bright blue to a less-bright white. Goes better with the subtle-blue of the radio. Mee likey!
i need some LED work done!!
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #60  
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lol

If you can do simple soldering (one lead of diode to one lead of resistor) you can do this stuff too...most of the others is just plug and play.
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #61  
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wow, nice. i want to do all my inetior lights like :/
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #62  
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thanks, I really love 'em
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
thanks, I really love 'em
Nope I have no skills at that.
Old Mar 10, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Blackwind
Nope I have no skills at that.

Some are just plug and play, which is super easy.
Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:47 AM
  #65  
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btw, my car is bm1 blue, or deep blue pearl, not lakeshore blue
Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:44 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ampire
yeah I know, when I lowered my max ~2.5" (stechs + illuminas), the wheel gap looked like that of a regular car but the car was seriously low otherwise, my subframe/crossmember would scrape on anything.
you scraped a lot with an s-tech drop? how?
Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:51 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by WesCTR
you scraped a lot with an s-tech drop? how?
That can happen when you tend to drive like ur on stock suspension... with the ride height in my sig my only scraping issues was at my old apt complex because the speed bumps were abnormally high...
Old Mar 12, 2012 | 04:46 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
That can happen when you tend to drive like ur on stock suspension... with the ride height in my sig my only scraping issues was at my old apt complex because the speed bumps were abnormally high...
lol you know how low my car is, my mud flaps only scrape going over speed bumps and steep driveway entries. i rarely scrape my crossmember now that I'm used to driving slammed and it's no more than 2 inches off the ground.
Old Mar 12, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #69  
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so just hypothetically...if I were to look at a very very VERY mild drop on my car (under 2 inches) I would be looking at lowering springs and new struts, yes?

Probably not enough low to justify coilovers, especially since it's my DD and future family car, not anything track or show-worthy.

G_hustle / Wes - you mentioned driving like it's stock... the drop in GHustle's sig is pretty extreme (compared to what I would do, if anything)...how must one drive differently when lowered? Aside from the obvious, don't blow thru speedbumps at 30MPH or anything...I ask becuase my driveway has a lip on it, and I already turn in at a slight angle to it, so that's pretty much it, right?

Last edited by Amerikaner83; Mar 12, 2012 at 07:21 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Looking at y pipe info and iwhat not...I think I have a FED-SPEC Maxima... God I hope so!


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According to the faq... the 12th character in the model info line designates emission spec... V for cali and U for US, non cali.

I have the U...hense I have a fed spec 99 yes??
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #71  
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Nice max. I don't know if you already mentioned it, but how much did you buy the car for?
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #72  
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Bought the car for 2700 :-)

Have an RSB on its way here...should be here by Thursday


Decided to do a little wash, and officially show the .org love:
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Nice and clean!

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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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GODDAMN LOOK AT THAT WHEEL GAP!

I dont remember stock setup being that high.. Clean car tho, interior looks sweet.
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ES_Kev
GODDAMN LOOK AT THAT WHEEL GAP!


I dont remember stock setup being that high..
HAHAHA Don't you know it! Yeppers, that's bone-stock. The 2nd pic thee really shows it off, eh? Can't wait until I get the $$ to drop it, going with H&R Springs and Tokico Illuminas, reduce that gap a bit
Clean car tho, interior looks sweet.
Thanks man. I love it. Trying to keep her clean...
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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To LED your Climate Control required soldering and resistors and all that stuff I am not familiar with, right? I just put the LEDs in my Cluster and they are VERY bright...almost too bright for me but I like the color and clarity so i am keeping them in and just use the dimmer. But, the problem is when I dim the cluster lights to my liking, the climate control lights are too dim and I can't see them. Do you (or anyone reading this) know if there is a way to make the climate control lights stay always bright like you can do with the clock IE they don't dim when you use the dimmer switch? I don't think I am going to LED them but I'd just like to keep them bright and i'll be happy.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:23 AM
  #76  
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Hmm I'm not sure, but it makes sense that in theory the dimmer circuitry can be bypassed in the climate control unit... lol mebbe the fsm has a wiring diagram for the dimmer circuit? I'm not entirely sure...but when I did my cluster LEDs they weren't a huge difference in brightness like it sounds like you have...
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:18 AM
  #77  
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Lemme know what u come up with in the fsm but yeah, I guess I'll look there if no one replies. Just was hoping someone could chime in real easy and say snip this and splice here. yeah, the difference in light output is huge.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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Haha yeah don't hold your breath now that you mention it there was a difference with gauge leds and climate control regular...I just don't notice it now because I LED'ed everything. You might find the answer in the 4th gen LED interior thread, I'm not sure. Depending on how things are wired it could be super easy or not.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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For anyone following your thread, I am about to jack it with my pic of my cluster. These are plug and play #194's for the 95-97 cluster. 5smd Led's cool white. They are a lot clearer in person and are very bright. I have to turn them down at night.

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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the blue hue is pretty, ain't it?

EDIT - Took a quick peek at the FSM for a 96, it looks like the only way to really get the CC to not dim is to tap into the cig lighter wires, or glovebox wires, which are not controlled by the the dimmer switch. HOWEVER, I think if you do that, you have to activate those circuits by opening glovebox or by opening the ashtray (activating those associated lights).

Not sure you wanna get into that can o'worms or not...I wouldn't.

Last edited by Amerikaner83; Apr 10, 2012 at 09:29 PM.



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