Yeah... sorry I missed your call yesterday, what's up?

 

Spent all day with both the cars...my Max and Squeaker's Outback...got my maxima Washed, dried, and clay-barred. First time doing the clay-bar, it was great!! Got the Mother's clay kit, comes with two bars, a microfiber towel and "showtime" instant detail spray.

Completed the Outback...wash/dry/Ultimate Compound/Scratch-X/Polish/Wax.

turned out pretty good, if I do say so myself:







Pics of the Maxima tomorrow...once I apply the bug/tar remover and polish and wax it.

And I spray-painted my splash guards BT4 body color. Looks alright, but haven't put them back on the car yet.

 

Maxima is finished!

I mentioned above that i wasn't sure about the quality of the BT4 that I sprayed my splash guards with...but today in the sunlight...WOW:




^^ Reflections...this is after all is said and done. Wash/clay/polish/wax.

 

Man, your ride is lookin good! I wish mine was that clean

 

Thanks

I just discovered the mothers clay bar...awesome! Next wash I will clay the side windows, did front and back windshields this time.

 

Yeah, I may have to try the clay bar on mine. Where did you pick it up at?

 

Amazon for like 15 bucks, but I spent 20 at oreilly's. Should be about same price at autozone or napa... it's the mother's brand clay kit. Comes with microfiber towel, 2 clay bars (I only used half of one bar for the max), and showtime detail spray. Pretty good value.

 

Did you have any swirl marks before and if yes, did the clay take it out? I've got some nasty swirl marks all over mine and nothing has worked to get rid of them so I Have thought about getting a professional detail done but if the clay works for that, I may try that first.

Also, did u end up doing any of the lighting mods we talked about?

 

Clean...

 

I still have a couple swirl marks, but not nearly as bad as I did before...Clay doesn't get rid of swirl marks really, just the imperfections you feel when you run the back of your hand across your body panels.

Have you tried scratch-X or swirl-X? I used scratch-X on the outback and it worked pretty well.

I didn't use any on the max, but the polishing and waxing helped the swirls a bit.

No lighting mods yet...

 

[quote=Amerikaner83;8537524]

Have you tried scratch-X or swirl-X? I used scratch-X on the outback and it worked pretty well.

quote]

No I have not tried either of those. I will check them out. Paint is pretty smooth but would like to get rid of some of the swirls. Thx

 

Lookin' good! Can't wait to see it in person.

 

Thanks Dave! coming up quick, ain't it?

got this in the mailbox today:

 

Alrighty then...after reading through about half of that monster "engine bay bling" thread, I have decided to make this my next project.

Underhood, I currently have a damn dirty engine bay with only a FSTB installed:







Things I'm thinking of getting:
*changing out yellow caps to black (coolant reservior, brake booster reservoir, washer fluid filler)
*new oil cap - maybe one of these:
or

*Obviously, it needs a good cleaning...going to likely take it to the carwash and do the coin-op engine cleaner method...OR the "simple green" spray followed by garden hose in the driveway.

*Thinking of sprucing up the nuts + bolts underhood as well... unsure of getting the blue ones, or just regular SS and either leaving them SS or spraypainting the washer portion BT4.

*Thinking of painting the raised part of the VC (n00b alert...is it the VC, the part that says V6 3000) BT4 as well.


Thoughts/opinions/suggestions?

 

First thing to do is clean it very well. You'd be surprised how great a clean engine bay looks. Honestly I'd skip the oil cap. The coolant and washer fluid caps can be painted if you choose.

It's a coil pack cover you're referring to. I painted mine a graphite color, but taped off the black center section. Looks nice.

Again, clean it really well and see what you think. You should look at mine during the meet. I've painted the FSTB mounts, radiator mounts, coil pack cover, alarm mount, and battery holder. All done in graphite, very subtle.

 

The coolant/washer fluid caps I am thinking of just replacing...perfect fit from an 03 Murano, apparently...and in black too

 

So I ended up ordering fluid reservoir caps from an 06 Murano...Windshield washer / Brake Master Cylinder / Coolant overflow as well. Also, ordered a new coil pack cover so I can mess around with it and not have to worry about having the max immobile. Bought metal polish as well for the underhood metal...gonna be one nice engine bay when I'm done (I hope)!


Gonna stop by a local Fastenal store to see what they've got for nuts/bolts/washers in a couple days.

 

This one. If it comes with a sticker for the center, throw it out. It's clean just the way it is.

 

^^ as it turns out, that's the one I ended up ordering, and have it on right now. No sticker. HOWEVER, I'm not entirely enthused...the little circular lip around the outer edge of the cap location gets in the way a little bit when removing the cap. But it does look pretty good there, though.

 

You think that's bad? I have to remove my engine cover in order to get the grip to remove the oil cap.

The things we do for bling.

 

Sigh.

I really need to learn how to change my own oil.

 

I could tell you how, but I dont want to spoon feed you

 

Are you being serious?

 

yeah, unfortunately.

I am great when it comes to LEDs or electrical, but an absolute dumbass when it comes to mechanical. I always second-guess myself and am scared sh!tless of doing it wrong and farking up the car. I'm not sure why.

But on to better things...nuts and bolts Just got done with a few things underhood and around back...

from this:


to this:

 

^^^
That looks much better. Fender washers are the way to go with license plates.

Um... bottom bolts, OP. Finish the look.

 

I know. I know. But I don't have any 10MM nuts to secure for the bottom. The hole just goes straight through,nothing grabbing on the other side.

 

You're probably using screws on top, to sink into the plastic casings on your trunk. For the bottom pieces, use countersunk bolts and a couple of M6 lock-nuts. Get them both in SS, so they don't corrode. If the bolts are too long, just get out the hacksaw and cut them to length. If you're worried about the cut side damaging the paint, file down the edges and put a piece of duct tape over them. It's the backside of the plate anyway. User flat washers on the back side to even out the contact points.

Think, man.

 

I was just gonna get some M6 nuts for the inner side of the plate, so it'd be secure.



And I don't know why, but my mind gets confused btwn the 10mm and M6..I know that the M6 is the new stuff that I'm replacing the 10mm stuff with, but in my mind sometimes I confuse myself. M6 nuts is what I want...and M6 flange nuts as well for engine bay.

my strut bolts currently have gold color acorn nuts on them...don't know if they came stock like that but me no likey...

 

Start with buying a pair of ramps from your local auto store:



Get yourself an oil drain pan:



Research your filter and oil for specs, and decide on a brand. Maybe buy a filter wrench.

Make sure the car has cooled down before you put it up on ramps, and let it sit for a little bit after you do, so the oil is mostly drained down into the pan. Unscrew the drain bolt... drain the oil. Unscrew the filter. Run a bead of oil around the gasket on the new filter and screw it in securely hand tight, then back it off a quarter turn. Replace the drain plug.

Unscrew the oil cap on the valve cover. Pour in the right amount of oil. Check it with the dipstick. Replace the oil cap. Drive the car around, then let it sit for a while again and re-check the oil level.

Take the old oil to any auto parts store for (free) recycling.

There. You can do this. Buy yourself a pizza when you're done.

 

10mm is the typical size of the hex head on most of the little bolts in your car... hence the 10mm socket wrench you're likely using.

M6 is the diameter of the shank, in this case 6 millimeters.

Here: http://www.probolt-usa.com/media/wys...ring_guide.pdf

 

I already have ramps, so that's good

I have always just gone somewhere to get the oil changed..in all my cars. 86 Accord, 97 Grand Am, and the max.

 

3 cars every 3000 miles... imagine the money you'll be saving.

1997 Grand Am?

 

I should specify...those were my former cars. We currently only have my max and Squeaker's Outback. Point well taken, however.

 

changing your own oil is overrated...unless the places are packed and there's a sale on an oil change w/ the oil that i use, i'll take it to get an oil change

 

That's because you're lazy.

Amerikaner83 has anxiety about the job, is all.

 

LOL naw...it came to a point where i was paying $30+ for oil change materials and i can get it done for the same price or cheaper..eff it

 

If your parts are cheap, then yes. Start using quality filters and synthetic oil, and then no. More importantly, and in the theme of being your own best argument, when you do it yourself you don't run the risk of this happening:

You totally deserve a slap for this.

 

no cheap parts...that's why oil change is cheaper for me to go to another place, i said reputable. the 'lube' shop i go to uses Castrol...or either i go to the honda dealership. i dont go to any other place.

SN: i use Valvoline Max life 5w30 and a purolator oil filter when i do my oil changes

i dont deserve a slap, it's become painstakingly obvious of what happened. i've experienced it. i attributed it to me removing my heat shield and more heat, but...it's obviously not that. it's oil filter related

 

Within the same hour, you bragged about $30 oil changes in one thread, then whined about a botched oil change in another.

It's like you're the new Hustler. And absolutely you deserve a slap. Here's five of them.

 

nope...i said reputable shop...i obviously wont be going back to the honda dealership after finding out about what they did, but if the other place has an opening, i definitely will. that was my first time going to the honda dealership for ANY kind of work on ANY vehicle i've ever had. one bad service is all i need to know not to go back to them. no bragging at all. i just said, with the same money i spend to just buy the materials, if i go to a reputable shop, it's better to let them do the oil change for the same price or cheaper than for me to buy the materials for the same price of more and have to do all the work. all i'm saying.

if they are packed and i can get the parts for the same price, i dont see why i shouldnt be able to just buy what i need and do the oil change myself. at the end of the day, you're not 'saving money'...it's more of a convinence you're saving yourself nowadays when it comes to an oil change...you're going to pay at right around $30 for oil change parts nowadays...the reputable shop i go to to get an oil change charges around $25...honda dealership charges $32 i believe...see where i'm going w/ what i'm saying?