Bringing a VE 5 speed 3rd gen back to life! - Page 2 - Maxima Forums



Members Rides Post Pictures of YOUR car here. It may or may not be a Maxima.

Bringing a VE 5 speed 3rd gen back to life!

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-26-2016, 06:36 PM   #41
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (36)
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 2,809
Great thread Nick! Glad to see you are still at it.
Requin6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2016, 12:03 PM   #42
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Well it's been almost a year of uneventful commuting in the 3rd gen, and it finally required some maintenance!

I started to smell fuel when driving the car about a month ago, but decided to ignore it for a while. I knew that one of the rubber fuel lines on the engine had some cracks in it, but I didn't see it leaking anything, so I let it slide until I had some spare time. Well, I finally had some spare time and pulled the car into the garage. Apparently the fuel line HAD started leaking.....



Woops!

Thankfully I had bought three rolls of Gates high pressure fuel line from RockAuto so I didn't have to go out and buy any. While I was in there, I decided to take apart the intake to make things easier for myself. While I was doing that, I also decided I wanted to clean up the nasty mess that was my battery and plastic shield. I also cleaned up the terminals with the wire brush thingy.



Some Purple Power cleaned that right up!



For some reason I was unable to figure out how to remove the connector from the MAF, so rather than risk cracking 25+ brittle plastic, I just put a bucket under it and sprayed the MAF cleaner through it!



Then I cleaned up the throttle body, which was pretty gross inside.



Then I tried a trick I learned from my M3, which was to spray the u-joint in the steering column with brake cleaner to remove all the grime, then lubricate it with graphite spray. It worked wonders in smoothing out the admittedly sticky steering in the M3, but since the Maxima didn't have that problem, I didn't notice any benefits. Oh well!



Anyways, back to the job at hand. That line was in seriously bad condition (not including the cut I made to it):



The other line wasn't looking as bad, but I wasn't about the get lazy now, so I replaced it too:



The two lines on the passenger side were showing small cracks, so I replaced them as well:



The longer lines running to and from the fuel filter appeared to be crack-free, so I didn't touch them. After getting everything back together I used a can of brake clean on the front of the motor to clean up decades worth of oil leaks. It looks slightly more presentable now!



I've driven the car for two days now and it feels great! I'm guessing the car was bleeding off fuel pressure through the hole in the hose, but I'm guessing the MAF cleaner helped out a bit too since the car has a K&N filter on it.

And with that, I'm done working on this car until another catastrophic situation arises. I still need to get the I30 back on the road!!
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2016, 10:28 AM   #43
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 3,835
amazing, and what happened to the I30 to not be on the road?
Prophecy99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2016, 11:53 AM   #44
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prophecy99 View Post
amazing, and what happened to the I30 to not be on the road?
Ugh, rear main seal and oil pan leaks. Hopefully I'll have some time for it after I get the M3's issues worked out, but until that happens, the M3 has priority.
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2016, 09:48 PM   #45
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dur-ham NC
Posts: 53,680
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95maxrider View Post
Ugh, rear main seal and oil pan leaks. Hopefully I'll have some time for it after I get the M3's issues worked out, but until that happens, the M3 has priority.
moAr Engine swaps? 09 maxima motah is calling for you.
Crusher103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 05:22 AM   #46
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusher103 View Post
moAr Engine swaps? 09 maxima motah is calling for you.
HA! After the last debacle of an engine swap I think I'm done for a few more years. I've been out of the game for a while, what's it take to get the 09 motors running in a 4th gen? I've already got Nistune....
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 09:56 AM   #47
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Dur-ham NC
Posts: 53,680
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95maxrider View Post
HA! After the last debacle of an engine swap I think I'm done for a few more years. I've been out of the game for a while, what's it take to get the 09 motors running in a 4th gen? I've already got Nistune....
Nothing more than what you already have. Just swap the timing equipment. i have the 07 alti in my car basically the same process to get it working. The only difference in the swap is you HAVE to use the OEM throttle body. The Pathy TB wont fit on the newer manifold.
Crusher103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 11:37 AM   #48
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Time for some more updates! I'm still using this car as a DD beater until I have time to fix up the I30. The M3 rally-x car is now pretty well buttoned up, so I have some time to do small things to the Maxima. First up? The all-important wiper blades. The blades on the car were shot, and driving in the rain wasn't really safe, so after I got a coupon, I plopped down the money for a nice new set.



I also replaced a dead tail light bulb. Big stuff here people!

Next, I followed up on the tip James gave me almost a year ago about checking the clutch pedal assembly. To refresh your memory, sometimes when I'm in first gear and I have my foot down on the clutch pedal and rev the motor, it feels like the clutch is trying to grab a bit. Well, I found one of the problems James mentioned, which was a loose nut on the clutch rod.



So I snugged it up, but once it reached the end it just started rotating the rod and didn't get any tighter.



I'm not sure what to make of this. I vaguely remember something similar happening to my I30 many years ago. Am I supposed to adjust the rod length? Maybe that's the reason why my clutch tries to grab even when I have my foot on the floor. But which way do I adjust it, towards the firewall, I assume?

Anyways, on to the fun stuff! The car came with a dead Bose stereo, and I've been just using the speakers on my phone to listen to music in the mean time, but I couldn't take it any more. I put a new headunit in the M3, and decided to put the old one in the Maxima. From there, I decided on some 6.5" JBL GTO638 3-way speakers. Nice and cheap, at $45. Now, the stock front speakers on a Bose-equipped 3rd gen are 4". That is not acceptable! Seeing as how I make custom speaker spacers/adapters I figured I should probably make a set for the 3rd gen!

I started with disassembly, which led me to this melted wax in the ash tray. So many questions....



Stock 4" Bose speakers:



It took a couple tries to get the holes to line up, and a trip to Home Depot for some #14 1-1/4" sheet metal screws, but things actually went together pretty smoothly! The Bose speakers have two sets of wires going to them; one thick set for power, and a thin set for signal. I capped off the power wires and just kept signal. I used 1/2" material for this job. Normally, I would use all sorts of sound deadening material, but for this car, with these parts, I just didn't care enough.





Getting the crappy JVC headunit in was a bit of a pain. Apparently, these cars really like getting a dedicated chassis ground for headunits, but there is nothing to really ground to inside the dash. Oh sure, there's the crash beam in there, but good luck drilling a hole in that. I eventually settled on a stud down by the gas pedal on the firewall. No hisses or pops or interference. Hooray, stereo complete!



I don't think I'll be spending any money on rear speakers, and for a grand total of $45 I'm pretty pleased with these results! If any of you 3rd gen guys want custom adapters for 6.5" front speakers, just let me know!

Last edited by 95maxrider; 12-12-2016 at 11:42 AM.
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 12:27 PM   #49
2 VE's are better than one!
iTrader: (31)
 
James92SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,296
Actually, I wasn't talking about the rod on the master cylinder. I guess it's possible I mentioned that but I don't remember if so. What I did mean was the actual clutch pedal assembly itself - the upper bolt on the clutch pedal mount. That is a very common failure point on these cars. The bolt head faces directly downward. If you follow the clutch pedal framework - just out of frame to the left of your pictures - there is a single bolt that screws into the upper mount. Again the bolt head faces directly downward.

This upper mount very commonly breaks and as a result the bolt will never stay tight. It'll just spin in place. Without this upper bolt being secure it allows the entire pedal assembly to flex when you press the clutch in and this flex can result in the exact sort of symptoms you're having.

Nice job on the Blose bypass. That's definitely an essential 3rd gen mod. Sadly most of us started having to do that way back in the early 2000's when these cars weren't even 10 years old lol.

Your 6.5" speakers must be pretty shallow. Have you tried to roll your windows down yet with those in place?

I ask because for years I made/sold 6.5" bolt-on speaker brackets for these cars. When I was a younger I used to sell them for $25 shipped on here and it'd give me a little gas money lol. In fact, a Google image search still turns up some results for my old bolt on mounts:



Anyway, as you can see, I had to put those spacer rings on the brackets because almost any 6.5" speaker is so deep it would interfere with the ability of the glass to roll down. The flat adapter bracket was never a go unless it was some inordinately shallow speakers.

One of my current VE's I actually just modified the factory Bose enclosures to accept 6.5" speakers as I didn't have any MDF and didn't feel like going to buy some. They actually sound pretty good since they're still in an enclosure (albeit not technically volumetrically proper - but still).

I know you said you don't want to spend any more money, but you should grab some really cheapo 6x9's and stick them in the back. Even the crummiest of 6x9's makes a huge difference. I got some Roadmaster 6x9's for something like $8 at Walmart one time and was amazed the difference it made just because it filled out the back with some sound.
James92SE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 02:04 PM   #50
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Quote:
Originally Posted by James92SE View Post
Actually, I wasn't talking about the rod on the master cylinder. I guess it's possible I mentioned that but I don't remember if so. What I did mean was the actual clutch pedal assembly itself - the upper bolt on the clutch pedal mount. That is a very common failure point on these cars. The bolt head faces directly downward. If you follow the clutch pedal framework - just out of frame to the left of your pictures - there is a single bolt that screws into the upper mount. Again the bolt head faces directly downward.

This upper mount very commonly breaks and as a result the bolt will never stay tight. It'll just spin in place. Without this upper bolt being secure it allows the entire pedal assembly to flex when you press the clutch in and this flex can result in the exact sort of symptoms you're having.

Nice job on the Blose bypass. That's definitely an essential 3rd gen mod. Sadly most of us started having to do that way back in the early 2000's when these cars weren't even 10 years old lol.

Your 6.5" speakers must be pretty shallow. Have you tried to roll your windows down yet with those in place?

I ask because for years I made/sold 6.5" bolt-on speaker brackets for these cars. When I was a younger I used to sell them for $25 shipped on here and it'd give me a little gas money lol. In fact, a Google image search still turns up some results for my old bolt on mounts:



Anyway, as you can see, I had to put those spacer rings on the brackets because almost any 6.5" speaker is so deep it would interfere with the ability of the glass to roll down. The flat adapter bracket was never a go unless it was some inordinately shallow speakers.

One of my current VE's I actually just modified the factory Bose enclosures to accept 6.5" speakers as I didn't have any MDF and didn't feel like going to buy some. They actually sound pretty good since they're still in an enclosure (albeit not technically volumetrically proper - but still).

I know you said you don't want to spend any more money, but you should grab some really cheapo 6x9's and stick them in the back. Even the crummiest of 6x9's makes a huge difference. I got some Roadmaster 6x9's for something like $8 at Walmart one time and was amazed the difference it made just because it filled out the back with some sound.
Ah, then I misunderstood. I'll check that bolt when I have it back in the garage. Regarding the speaker spacers, I fitted everything together with the windows rolled down, so yes, it clears. What was the total thickness of your adapters? Given how massive the Bose enclosure is, I figure pretty much any 6.5" will fit with 1/2" material. Hell, I could have flush mounted the speaker and had room! Maybe I will get some cheap 6x9s for the back. Do they bolt right up to the Bose stuff or do I need to fiddle with it?
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2017, 05:41 AM   #51
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Oh look! Some pictures I took a few months ago!







I know, I know, this is important stuff here.
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 12:10 PM   #52
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
I finally got a bunch of studying and test taking completed, so after a month away, I was able to get back out to the garage and do some work. Yay!! After doing an oil change on the wife's Escape, I brought the Maxima in. First thing? Oil change! I've only put on something like 1,000 miles since I bought the car some 14 months ago, but I knew new oil would do the car good. There are some oil leaks on the motor, and since I'm not about to tear the whole damn thing apart to fix all of them, I decided to try something new- LiquiMoly products. I've already added a can on their Valve Clean to the gas, but now it was time to put their products elsewhere.



Normally I'm pretty skeptical of these types of products. The only things I've pretty much ever used before is just Seafoam in the gas. But after reading a lot of reviews for all of these LM products, they sounded legit enough. Hey, they're all made in Germany, how bad can they be? First up was the Engine Flush. You put it in the oil and let the engine idle for 10 minutes, then drain it all out. The stuff is thinner than oil. I did a little before/after comparison with oil from the dipstick to see if it got any darker after running it through, but I couldn't tell a change. Oh well.

Then on to some new oil and a new Toyota filter.





This has gotta be the nicest filter I've ever bought. Not only does it come with a new crush gasket for the drain plug (that just so happens to fit the 3rd gen plug) but the o-ring comes pre-lubed with something that looks like vaseline. What thoughtful touches! I poured in the stop leak stuff and the hydraulic valve lifter noise stuff, and both were thick like honey, then put the oil in after to make sure I didn't overfill it.

I've noticed that my coolant overflow tank slowly seems to drain itself, but I can never find any evidence of where the coolant was going. I tried to use my cooling system pressure tester, but I couldn't get it to seal right on the radiator. I took a look at the radiator cap only to find cracked rubber seals. Time for a new cap! 15 minutes and $7 later, I had a new cap. I mixed up a batch of coolant and considered the job done for now.





Then it was time to crawl inside the car to take a look at the clutch pedal bolt that James told me to check out. It seemed to be nice and tight, which is a good thing. Except now I'm not sure where to look for my occasional clutch pedal weirdness. I'm guessing this hard to photograph bolt is the one he's referring to:



Then I had a thought- what if the clutch fluid is so nasty that it's not fully disengaging the clutch when I have my foot on it. I didn't use my testing kit to get the percentage of water in the fluid, but it was probably pretty high. I wouldn't be at all surprised if this fluid was 25 years old.



After using a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid about ten times, I was finally able to get the fluid in the reservoir nice and clean. Hooray! I didn't look, but is it easy to bleed the clutch line on this car?



I then sucked out the ATF from the PS reservoir and added some of the LM ATF additive in an attempt to stop the lines from leaking. We shall see if it works.

Then I crawled under the car to see if I couldn't figure out why the e-brake doesn't work on the PS wheel. The little arm thing that the e-brake cable pulls on wasn't moving freely so I hit it with some new, apparently better than PB Blaster Seafoam stuff and a hammer.



Yeah, no dice. Still mostly stuck.



Last project was to stop the cat back from hitting the RSB. It's held in place with a variety of ghetto hangers that let it dangle way too low. I assume it was done on purpose, and I can only assume it was to stop the resonator from banging the heat shield. It looked like the easiest way to fix the problem was to simply remove an extra hanger that had been installed and just use the stock hanger.





With that removed and the exhaust in the original hanger, I had plenty of room over the RSB, but it was rubbing up against the heat shield. I decided it would be best to just "tweak" the shield with my snips, a hammer, and a punch tool. Five minutes later I had all the clearance I needed and a non-rattling exhaust. Success again!





I didn't get to drive it yet, but I have high hopes. Oh, and I tweaked the EQ setting on the head unit and now those 6.5" front JBL GTO speakers sound pretty good! I'm excited to drive it around some more now to see how it reacted to the maintenance. I'll keep you posted!
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2017, 12:19 PM   #53
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Nothing much to report except some new fluids and a reinstalled battery tray. Still, progress!

So the battery died a few weeks ago so I bought a new one from Advance Auto, but apparently it was a different size than the stock one, so I had to trim the plastic battery surround to get the positive terminal to fit. It also needed some washers on the posts to hold it down tight.



Good, done!

I was planning on bleeding the brakes and clutch fluid, but it turns out I don't have the correct adapter for my Motive power bleeder, and I didn't have time to do it manually, so I just swapped some fluids from the reservoirs. First up was the clutch fluid, which I had cleaned and refilled the reservoir last week. Apparently the stuff in the reservoir mixed up nicely with the dirty stuff in the line, so I decided the suck it out and put more new fluid in.



Fresh!



Next up was the disgusting brake fluid. I can't remember the last time I saw fluid this nasty!



All fresh...well, at least in the reservoir.



More to come....
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2017, 01:13 PM   #54
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
With the I30 back on the road, the Maxima hasn't been getting driven much. Apparently when I was mucking about with the battery I must have knocked the wiring going to the DS headlight, which no longer worked. The PO mentioned he did some bulb conversion to get better output, but failed to mention how poorly the conversion had been done. Now, to be fair, it did last more than a year, which is mighty impressive given what I found, but still some pretty shoddy work. If you're using duct tape on a car, you're probably doing it wrong.

Yup, duct tape was holding this whole thing together!



It should come as no surprise that a light amount of friction caused the wires to fall off their posts, since they were just twisted on!



So I brought out the soldering iron and put my crappy skills to work:





I pulled on the wires with a decent amount of force and they didn't come off. Success!! Time to finish the job properly with some electrical tape:



And because the tabs didn't seem like they were grabbing very well, I threw on some zip ties to make sure nothing could back out and disconnect:



And with that I have functioning and now more reliable headlights. Job done!
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2017, 07:14 AM   #55
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
Hey guys, so the time has come and it's about time I start preparing the 3rd gen for sale. Before doing so, I want to fix a couple hopefully easy things to make it a little more appealing to the average buyer, and I could use some feedback from 3rd gen guys about how hard they will be to do.

-My front DS window works flawlessly, but the other three windows usually don't work. It doesn't matter if I do it from the DS master switch or from the individual doors. Sometimes they all work, but most of the time they don't. I'm guessing this might be related to the master switch in the DS door, but this is just a guess. Can anyone give me any info on this?

-My temp gauge in the dash pretty much stopped working. When I bought the car I replaced the sensor on the engine that feeds the dash gauge. For a while, both before and after replacing the sensor, it would work until it got to operating temp, and then it would fall back to zero. Now, it pretty much never works at all. Smacking the dash board seemed to make it work occasionally. From what I remember reading, I might just need to reflow the solder on the back of the temp gauge. Is this correct, or is the problem potentially elsewhere?

-The clock doesn't work. Does anyone have a good one for sale?

Thanks guys!
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2017, 08:37 AM   #56
3.5 Swapped!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (32)
 
95maxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Herndon, VA
Posts: 6,968
So.....no tips on the windows or temp gauge?
95maxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Building Custom-Fit 2006-2008 350Z/G35 Front Calipers BPuff57 Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking 30 06-20-2016 09:19 AM
CAN-Toronto FS: Basement cleaning knight_yyz 5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003) 12 11-01-2015 01:34 PM
4th gen iacv code wont go away j.phantom 4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) 7 10-22-2015 08:57 PM
FL Berk Intake/Apexi Filter, OEM 6 speed knob, NWP torque link, AE sills vfrpilot28 5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003) 3 10-16-2015 07:40 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:23 AM.