How to install K&N cone filter.
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 143
How to install K&N cone filter.
Ok, I've searched the friggin' .org for about three hours now. No one has a write-up on how to install a K&N cone filter? Is it so easy that no one feels it's necessary? Well, I can't figure the deal out. Maybe I had the wrong adapter sent to me. I got the air box out, but do you leave the bottom half in? If not, where do you run the air intake valves to? I'm so confused. Maybe stupid, but I'm just going to claim confusion. Help?
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 42
If this is like every other Nissan MAF adapter, you just remove both halves of the airbox, use your own bolts/screws to mount the adapter to the MAF, and then use a 3" hose clamp to connect the filter to the adapter. Done.
Oh, and about the "I'm a valet and I bought a Max" line, I'm a valet too. If the Maxima is the nicest car you've driven, valet at a nicer place!
I love the Maxima, but I'd much rather drive a Porsche 
Oh, and about the "I'm a valet and I bought a Max" line, I'm a valet too. If the Maxima is the nicest car you've driven, valet at a nicer place!
I love the Maxima, but I'd much rather drive a Porsche
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 143
ha ha.... it's not the nicest car I've driven there, however, probably the best car available for the money. Somehow, I just can't afford a Porsche. If I could, I think I'd still own a Max. By the way, I drove Jimmy Jackson's Bentley one time. That was nice.
As for the filter, thanks for the info. But I think I got the wrong adapter, because the holes don't line up at all. Also, what about the air intake thing that's on the front? If I take both halves out, then this peice of plastic will just be dangling. Should I just take that out then? It's pulling in colder air because it's right up on the grill, so I assume that'd be a bad idea to let it just go to waste. I have an SE and as I've looked at other's profiles with stock set-ups, they have them too. Thoughts?
As for the filter, thanks for the info. But I think I got the wrong adapter, because the holes don't line up at all. Also, what about the air intake thing that's on the front? If I take both halves out, then this peice of plastic will just be dangling. Should I just take that out then? It's pulling in colder air because it's right up on the grill, so I assume that'd be a bad idea to let it just go to waste. I have an SE and as I've looked at other's profiles with stock set-ups, they have them too. Thoughts?
My adapter was a universal Nissan one. I did have to drill 2 extra holes to get it to line up. There were indicated drilling spots marked on the adapter. Look closly, are there small circles where other holes could be drilled?
Just take out all the stock tubing, it won't do anything for ya.
Just take out all the stock tubing, it won't do anything for ya.
Originally posted by gtr_rider
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=35
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=35
YOU NEED TO START AT STEP 4! Since you already have an adaptor plate, there is no need to make your own. So start at Step 4 and follow through and you should be done in under an hour.-Cyrus
Originally posted by Vyrus
YOU NEED TO START AT STEP 4! Since you already have an adaptor plate, there is no need to make your own. So start at Step 4 and follow through and you should be done in under an hour.
-Cyrus
YOU NEED TO START AT STEP 4! Since you already have an adaptor plate, there is no need to make your own. So start at Step 4 and follow through and you should be done in under an hour.-Cyrus
I agree with benolin. Some things need a few more instructions. I got a new wing for my 300ZX. No template. No instructions. Nothing on the web. Yikes! Imagine drilling holes in your Z after manually (albeit meticulously) lining things up.... 
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 450
Originally posted by Vyrus
YOU NEED TO START AT STEP 4! Since you already have an adaptor plate, there is no need to make your own. So start at Step 4 and follow through and you should be done in under an hour.
-Cyrus
YOU NEED TO START AT STEP 4! Since you already have an adaptor plate, there is no need to make your own. So start at Step 4 and follow through and you should be done in under an hour.-Cyrus
I followed your write up to do my Poor Man's HAI (nice job btw), using an APC intimidator - took about 15 minutes.
I put it back to stock though - as I didn't like the sound too much - actually I started liking it but was speeding around like an idiot.
It took longer to get the stock air box back on, because you have to hold the adapter plate in place from underneath as you put the bolts back in (as the rivets that held it on are now gone)
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 143
Ok, in response to my own request for a write-up on how to install a
new cone filter, here is a walkthrough. I will be as detailed as I
possibly can.
First, pop the hood. When you lift the hood, on the right side (driver's side), you will see a large, black, plastic box right
behind the battery. That is what will be replaced by your new cone
filter. Move to the driver's side of the car and look more closely
at the air box. You will see that there are two sensors that are
involved with this installation. First, there is one physically
screwed into the air box. Go ahead and unscrew it and remove it- you
may need vice grips to do so if they are well-rusted. Now, when you
remove this sensors, there is a small metal peice that was holding it
in place, which will now be on the inside of the filter. Don't forget that. Next, there is another sensor directly behind the air box, on the black piping. This can just simply be disconnected.
Now on the back of the air box, you'll see four bolts/screws that are
holding the airbox onto the piping. These require a 10mm socket and
probably an extension would make it easier. (My Max is a 96 SE, so
others may be different) Remove those bolts and make sure you hold
onto them for later. Once your done with that, in the back right side
of the air box (where the metal peice that supported the sensor was), and underneath that there is another 10mm bolt that needs to be removed that is holding the top half of the air box in place. Take that out and set it aside, somewhere that you know you won't need it anymore.
Now, on the four corners of the airbox, you can see a metal clip.
Unhinge each of these. This will free the top half of the airbox to
come out. Go ahead and shimmy it out, remember that the metal peice
that held the sensor is still in there, so don't lose it. Then, remove the stock air filter that is in there. So, from this point you have two options:
1- to remove the bottomof the airbox as well along with some stock
cold-air intake piping that might exist or
2- leave the intake piping and the bottom half of the box alone.
I chose number two because it involved less work. But also because I
figured that the intake is gathering colder air than the air under the hood, so it may be helping a little bit even if it's not much, it's still helping. That was my rationale.
If you leave it in, try to get a leaf blower or vacuum to suck all of
the debris out of it. You don't need that stuff clogging your new air filter before we even get going.
Anyways, now, take the top half of your airbox and look inside. You'll see a metal peice that was once the mounting for the bolts and airbox. There are two rivets that are holding this peice onto the air box. From the outside, take a drill and push through these rivets. They will pop right out. Make sure that you DO NOT bend the metal peice. If you do, the final seal will be bad and stuff will pass by your filter and cause damage.
Take that metal peice and your new air filter and we're going to attach them. What you need to do is insert part of the lip of the metal peice into the opening of the new filter. Then, while reaching inside the rubber opening of the filter, push out on the filter and down on the metal peice so that the peice sits flush with the filter and is completely inside. This serves as your adapter. Now, take the silver clamp that came with your filter and tighten it on there. Use common sense with how tight it should be.
Now, back at the car, you need to simply reattach the new filter via
the adapter you just applied with the four screws that were on there
before. Again, this is a 10mm socket. Just screw it back on... you
no longer need the washers that were inside the original air box either (they're the same gold color). You also do not need to reattach the screw that was WAY down on the back right. BUT you DO need to reattach the metal peice that held the sensor in place.
Then, reattach the sensor to the piping, and then find any place for
the other sensor. I believe it is just a temperature sensor, so don't worry about where it goes, just don't let it get caught somewhere stupid. I just wired-tied mine to a nearby metal peice. Eh, it works for now. Hope this helps! Good luck. email me with questions or corrections. Enjoy the rumble at a about 3K RPM!!
new cone filter, here is a walkthrough. I will be as detailed as I
possibly can.
First, pop the hood. When you lift the hood, on the right side (driver's side), you will see a large, black, plastic box right
behind the battery. That is what will be replaced by your new cone
filter. Move to the driver's side of the car and look more closely
at the air box. You will see that there are two sensors that are
involved with this installation. First, there is one physically
screwed into the air box. Go ahead and unscrew it and remove it- you
may need vice grips to do so if they are well-rusted. Now, when you
remove this sensors, there is a small metal peice that was holding it
in place, which will now be on the inside of the filter. Don't forget that. Next, there is another sensor directly behind the air box, on the black piping. This can just simply be disconnected.
Now on the back of the air box, you'll see four bolts/screws that are
holding the airbox onto the piping. These require a 10mm socket and
probably an extension would make it easier. (My Max is a 96 SE, so
others may be different) Remove those bolts and make sure you hold
onto them for later. Once your done with that, in the back right side
of the air box (where the metal peice that supported the sensor was), and underneath that there is another 10mm bolt that needs to be removed that is holding the top half of the air box in place. Take that out and set it aside, somewhere that you know you won't need it anymore.
Now, on the four corners of the airbox, you can see a metal clip.
Unhinge each of these. This will free the top half of the airbox to
come out. Go ahead and shimmy it out, remember that the metal peice
that held the sensor is still in there, so don't lose it. Then, remove the stock air filter that is in there. So, from this point you have two options:
1- to remove the bottomof the airbox as well along with some stock
cold-air intake piping that might exist or
2- leave the intake piping and the bottom half of the box alone.
I chose number two because it involved less work. But also because I
figured that the intake is gathering colder air than the air under the hood, so it may be helping a little bit even if it's not much, it's still helping. That was my rationale.
If you leave it in, try to get a leaf blower or vacuum to suck all of
the debris out of it. You don't need that stuff clogging your new air filter before we even get going.
Anyways, now, take the top half of your airbox and look inside. You'll see a metal peice that was once the mounting for the bolts and airbox. There are two rivets that are holding this peice onto the air box. From the outside, take a drill and push through these rivets. They will pop right out. Make sure that you DO NOT bend the metal peice. If you do, the final seal will be bad and stuff will pass by your filter and cause damage.
Take that metal peice and your new air filter and we're going to attach them. What you need to do is insert part of the lip of the metal peice into the opening of the new filter. Then, while reaching inside the rubber opening of the filter, push out on the filter and down on the metal peice so that the peice sits flush with the filter and is completely inside. This serves as your adapter. Now, take the silver clamp that came with your filter and tighten it on there. Use common sense with how tight it should be.
Now, back at the car, you need to simply reattach the new filter via
the adapter you just applied with the four screws that were on there
before. Again, this is a 10mm socket. Just screw it back on... you
no longer need the washers that were inside the original air box either (they're the same gold color). You also do not need to reattach the screw that was WAY down on the back right. BUT you DO need to reattach the metal peice that held the sensor in place.
Then, reattach the sensor to the piping, and then find any place for
the other sensor. I believe it is just a temperature sensor, so don't worry about where it goes, just don't let it get caught somewhere stupid. I just wired-tied mine to a nearby metal peice. Eh, it works for now. Hope this helps! Good luck. email me with questions or corrections. Enjoy the rumble at a about 3K RPM!!
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