Thats right, I finally got so sick and tired of my car being in the shop, and the down right poor quality of my Maxima, I finally traded it in for the Infiniti G35 Sedan, and so far all I can say is that I should have just dropped the extra 6 grand originally and just got the Infiniti. I just wanted to thank everyone that helped out with the Navi project (wink, wink), and I wish everyone here the best of luck.

Scott

 

I am in the market for a 2k2 Max .. if you don't mind repeating what I'm sure amounts to hundreds of posts about the problems w/ your car.. could you condense and lemme know what the major issues were w/ you car/service?

Thanks

 

Well lets see most recently, both of my front rotors are warped, but before that I had a MAJOR problem with my subframe. It seems that the subframe was warped where the suspension bolts to the car, and both wheels were literally ready to fall off (passenger side) my car was in the shop for over 2 weeks for the repairs. These last two things were the last straw for me. When the service manager looked at me with utter fear in his eyes, and said I am sorry Dr. Greenwell but there is no way I can let you drive this car off the lot, and proceeded to show me how he could manipulate both passanger side wheels any way that he felt the needed to, and said I really don't know how they have fallen off with as much driving as you do (I have a 2 hour commute each way to work), I thought there is no way I am holding on to my car, not to mention the gross depreciation of the value of the car ($10,000 in 10 months).

Scott

 

what did you do to your car that caused that much damage?

Peter, don't base your decision off one or two people's opinion. I, as well as most here, have had very few problems... annoyances is a better word. This kind of damage isn't typical of a Maxima. He says "poor quality" but his is the only car with that subframe problem and post after post about rotors suggests the driver didn't break them in properly and it has little to do with "quality."

If you're looking for opinions on getting a 2k2/2k3 Max, get it and you'll enjoy the car.

 

Yes, I've been reading the posts for many months now and I've never heard of a Max having that problem... Although I will admit that it DOES sound a bit scary, did you get a second opinion? Enjoy your Infiniti...

 

Almost sounds like a Lemon. Should've tried to get Nissan to buy it back from you!

 

A total newbie question...

What the hell is this warped rotor I keep hearing about...
I mean what is it, and how can I prevent it??

 

what most people refer to warped rotors is a throbing feeling when braking, kinda like your in ABS but not. in reality what happened is the person didnt break in the brakes and the pads had left uneven material on the rotor itself thus giving the wobble effect. to correct this problem you have to do two things, one have the rotors machined and then also get new pads and break them in properly

 

Well I've had 3 sets of rotors on my 2k...the OEM's and 2 sets of Bendix. At least the OEM's lasted until maybe 20k before they warped..the Bendix rotors warped within 5k each set.

Pray tell the "correct" way to break in pads and rotors....I never knew of such a procedure....never had to do it with any of the other cars I have owned, what makes the Max so special or "unspecial" if you will?

 

I totally agree with you. Aside from the problem I have had with my Bose radio, I have been relatively problem free. I have almost 21,000 miles on my 2K2 6 speed and all I have done is change the oil every 3,000 miles and tires rotated, balanced, and aligned every 6,000 miles. At 18,000 miles, I had the rotors turned and replaced the pads in the front. I did start to detect a slight pulsation from the front. My dealer did that for me without giving me any problems.
Oh, I almost forgot. I ALWAYS use 93 Octane gas or higher. I have not done much in the modding department but I do drive the car hard at times.

 

I've read long explanations on the board for the "proper" break in procedure. However, according to the manual you just should not do hard stops and go "easy" on them. I did just that and my rotors started wabbling at hard stops (60+ MPH) at 1,000 miles (just noticed it after the break in period).

I don't agree with you that the cause of this is driver error. I've owned many cars and did the same procedure and have not had the rotors warped.

 

Just a stupid question, but if you were so unhappy with the Maxima why would you buy another car from the same manufacturer??? Especially one that is in its infancy of production?

Let us know how your experiances are with the new car!

 

The warped rotors are a problem with many cars, not just the Maxima. Also the warping is caused by keeping your foot on the brake while sitting at a light or in traffic. Think about it, you come to a stop, which generates a lot of heat, and then you just sit there with the hot pad clamped tightly to the rotor. What do you think is gonna happen? I know it's hard in an automatic, but you need to let up. I normally have my foot off the brake at a light or I move up little by little so that the pad doesn't stay on the same spot of the rotor. Also keep in mind that newer pads radiate less heat, thus they hold that heat in. It's really not the rotors as much as it is your pads.

Sorry to see you go man, but the G35 is an excellent choice. I do kick myself for not waiting for it to come in a stick.

 

My rotors warped after 35000km (21700mi). I know enough not to stand on the brakes and I have never had this problem with any other car. To me it is clearly a product defect or a poor design. I no longer allow the dealer to rotate my tires as they do not have the skill to tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque range.

This problem is in Nissan's court

 

The major flaw of the brakes on the maxima is the pad not the rotors, this can be seen when people change the rotors but still have the stock pads then get the "warping" of their now aftermarket rotors

the "correct" break in procedure is as follows:
a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between to allow pads to cool. also during pad breakin DO NOT come to a complete stop as this will leave a pad print on your rotor.

for more info about the warping rotor myth go here:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

 

Thanks for the info, but can you tell me:

HOW ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO DRIVE WITHOUT COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP??!?!?!?!?

I mean, come on. Even if you get new brakes from the dealer you still have to drive it off the lot?

 

if you come to a complete stop while the brakes are cold then you will be fine. but when your in the middle of the break in and the brakes are hot then you will get the pad print when you come to a complete stop.

 

Ok, that makes sense

And you've personally tried this? I will probably end up getting new brakes soon from the dealer (if they know what's good for them ) so I will follow this procedure.

After the 10 times of this break-in, is that it? Can you stomp from then on?? That would be way-cool because the 1000 mile brake break-in period killed me. I don't want to have to go through that again.

 

i have not done this personally, as i just 5000 miles on my 2k3. but if you read the article i posted earlier you will get a more detailed break in process.

if the proper break in has been done then i would say if you stomp on the brake and lock them up, impossible with ABS, you will not warp the rotors. BUT DO NOT keep your foot on the brake once at a stop when your pads are hot, this will leave the pad print and making the rotors uneven, thus giving the "warped rotor" feeling. allow for ample cool down.

 

Well, I considered the I/G35 too. I mean, its basically the maxima with actual service. I mean really, if the maxima had good service, it would rock in every way... (except for the rear beam )

 

Hmmm, that is kinda makes me worried, my car is making some knocking sounds in the right front side when hitting bumps. I hope I don't have same damage that you had.
Dealer looked at it and couldn't find anything there.

 

Exactly, take it from people that have had Nissan's for more than a couple of years and you will totally agree. Nissan service is beyond bad, and they hate people who mod their cars.

 

Wait a second now I would agree that the I35 is pretty much the maxima with service, but the G35 is in another category totally. The rear wheel drive, 48/52 weight distribution, amongst many of the other lux details seperates this car from the Maxima if you ask me.

 

ok.. look at the engine.. the relays, the wiring..... the vendors used for all the parts.. its nissan.. obviously its not a maxima, that wasnt the point.

 

Thanks for the link!

However when I had my rotors changed out the first time I had new pads put on all around and they were not Nissan pads, they were Bendix(same as the rotors) That set lasted about 4k before they started to pulse....I was very gentle on the brakes...I brought it back to the guy who did it and he put a brand new set of rotors on. This set also lasted about 4k and now at 10k the are throbbing pretty good...I'm going to have them turned in the next month or so just for the fact I refuse to shell out another 500 bucks to replace them when in all probability they are going to warp again in short order.

 

You'll be missed, buddy! I hope you'll still drop by.

Thanks for the Navi-thingy...

Did you opt for Navi in the G? Is it much nicer?

So long,
G

 

I love my 02, ZERO problems. good luck with the infinity, i couldnt justify spending the extra 6K!

 

Yeah I love the navi in the G, its the DVD based and has all of the US and Canada, more coverage areas, and more features.

Scott

 

i never heard of Bendix so i wouldnt know if they are supposed to be good or not. personally i have heard nothing be good things about Axxis pads so i would say those should help stop the "warping"


but just remeber even if you have top of the line rotors and pads doesnt mean you will be 100% sure of not "warping" your rotors, with proper break in you can help prevent it from happening

 

do you guys drive really fast or break really hard from like 100mph-0 stops?

cause i have 25k miles on my rotors with no problems whatsoever, that goes for alot of other 5th gen owners that I know. Plus, you can always buy stillen rotors for less than the stock price when and if they do warp