I have been working on the install since Friday afternoon...I have the following issues...

Stand-off bolts too big on threaded mae end to fit onto timing cover
I am leaving them off for now at the suggestion of BenBlanco

Hex head bolt #18 will not feed in at all...
I know it is supposed to be hard but it is not lining up at all and I cannot get my scarred up big old fingers in there...I gave up on that last night about 3:30 AM and got some sleep.


Front bolt securing alternator to SC bracket is being tempermental...
I cannot tell if it feeds in from the right when facing the front of the car or left...got it in from right but it did not feed into the hole on bracket. I cannot tell if it is threaded in the bracket hole...and it just gets pushed out some when I tighten it down.

issues are arising with the placement of fuel hoses as well but it is mainly the 5/16th hose closest to the firewall off the LARGE outlet on stock FPR...I am trying to figure if this really is necessary to take off cause I cannot get any tool in there to remove let alone replace with the new hose...
I am trying to take it easy and not force the potential for breaking the hoses off the back of the stock FPR but I do not know what else to do...stuck here

 

Fuel Hose..

Follow the hose off the fpr under the manifold. it connects to a hard line for about six inches and there is the return line attached at the other end. take that hose off and the leave the fpr to the hardline alone. use a panel remover to get the return line off. worst case cut a small piece off the end (splice hose) to get it off.

 

The alternator bolt will come in from the exhaust manifold (car's midline) side. You will need a deep socket to tighten it up. Did you loosen the alternator? It can move a little to help you align the S/C bracket hole, IIRC.

As for the fuel lines... Follow it logically... Fuel filter top is the source... I still suggest you scrape the idea of installing the inline because you have the Walbro 255lph hp. It'll save you time with fuel line routing and electrical connections. That way, all you need to do is intercept the fuel return line and hook up the FMU in between.

 

Your obviously having a hard time

1. Have someone assist you
2. install that bottom allen bolt first thread it in use thread lock on there since your not installing the stand off bolts, the belt adjusting bracket bolts must be loose so you can have some play until you thread that allen bolt in there.
3. after you just threaded the bottom allen bolt you can a) pull a little on that thick hose and someone from the bottom can thread the alternator bolt B) push the hose down and thread the bolt into the atlternator

4. after you threaded these bolts in there and spun them a good 3-4 turns thread the rest of the bolts in there, just thread them in there until you get all of them into the timing chain. Then proceed to tighten the top ones and then the bottom ones and you should be done.


I just installed a V2 last night and since he had rerouted the powersteering lines and removed the UDP, total installation time took 4.5 hours between me and him. Removing the UDP really helps to get to the oil return plate etc..

 

I have kicked the #18 bolts ****...got it in with some modification to the adjuster bracket...hole was too small and too much material at very top of bracket...a little grinding and it went in like butter.

The alternator bolt was obviously misplaced and I found a different hardened bolt and nut that fit thru...problem solved for now but that one is probably best located or purchased again and installed correctly.

The belt was routed, tightened and I am keeping the tensioner tools handy to make adjustments when I get it going...

now the fuel issue...I originally planned on running the aux pump but I have the Walbro Hi-Pres already and have been running very rich anyhow...
so my dilemna now is determining fuel path for hose routing with NO USE of in-line aux fuel pump...most specifically the area around stock FPR...

how about fuel filter to single entry on fuel rail behind & to the right of valve cover hose FPR and out the bottom port (5/16th) of the stock FPR back to 5/16th port in on FMU and out 90 degree port on bottom of FMU to barbed connector to fuel tank return...

only problem with this is the in conceivable manner in which I am supposed to get the hose off the BACK of the stock FPR...is removal of FPR the only way?

any further feedback??? as the help I have been getting is nothing short of stellar...you guys actually put me at ease when I was stressing a bit ago.

 

As far as the fuel line goes, why not just cut it and barb it in?

 

Chunger was able to walk me thru the fuel stuff and now I am doing the vaccuum hoses...almost there

 

dont fight with the fuel line coming off the rails cut them a bit, serously

 

It works...I am finished!!!!!

Two and a half days of hard work make the crickets go



A big thanks to all who helped answer my questions...Chunger, Delio, Jay, Ben and Frank...mucho gusto to you all!

And Josh for the installation aid...that was a lifesaver!

 

Thanks again Arlan...everything seems to have worked out but I am going ask to contact Paul about the standoff bolts...thanks and I am glad if I was able to help you out but ...well...wow...I am actually surprised and proud of myself that it works

 

Congratulations! Told you it would fire right up...

Just be vigil about the belt and fuel connections for the next few days.

 

That is GREAT. When you gave me a call, I was sweating some bullets b/c of that stand off bolt issue. One other thing I have contacted Paul to no avail about the transfer of warranty. I'll have to get back on him for that (let me know what you want to do w/ that).

CONGRATS that you got it done, and she's prrrrin like a kitten, or now a tiger. But as for me, I'm still a bit

 

well?!??!!!

How do you like da boost?