I've got an 87 that's due for a timing belt. Does anyone know if this is an interference engine design (valves will hit the pistons if the t-belt breaks)? Is the timing straight forward enough so the mechanic won't be tempted take a short-cut align he timing marks?

I would think at this age it would be best to replace the waterpump, tensioner, cam and main seals, and accessory belts.

Any input welcome.

Thanks

 

yes its an interference engine so if the timing belt goes or the tensioner be ready to cough up some money. I needed my top end rebuilt because when I had my timing belt done they didnt do the tensioner too. So if you do change it change the tensioner too. Its even recommended in the FSM.

 

Yes, it is an interference engine and the pistons will destroy your valves if that belt or tensioner breaks.

It depends how many miles you have on whether or not you should replace all that stuff. I just replaced my belt and tensioner at 115K, I didn't do all that other stuff since the mechanic said it should all hold up until my next belt change.

However, if you're over the 150K mark, I would replace the water pump, cam seals, accessory belts, and the thermostat. If your idler pulley makes noise, you should change it too. You'll know if it makes noise when you turn the A/C on, you'll here a clicking noise at low RPM's.

-C-

 

The car has only 68K miles. It is recommended to replace the waterpump, tensioner and cam seals at this mileage? I know for my Mistu (Stealth) 3.0 DOHC replacing all of this belt assembly is critical at 60K. The tensioner started vibrating against the stop at about 65K, so there not much margin in this design.

By the way, the car is in the shop for a bad power steering pump (and hopefully not the rack too).


Sorry if this info has been asked before, I couldn't find the info in the FAQ.

Thanks

 

Replacing the water pump, oil seals, and all that other stuff at that mileage would just be a waste of money. You'll have to do another timing belt change around 128K, and I'm sure you'll have no trouble getting that many miles out of those parts. I haven't changed any of those parts, they work perfectly fine and I've got 120K on the car so far.

Technically they say to replace the tensioner every other belt change, but it's such a cheap part and it is very critical that I strongly recommend replacing it with your timing belt every 60K miles. Other than that, don't replace anything unless it's broke or about to break.

-C-

 

Don't forget the tensioner stud, which usually doesn't come with the tensioner itself. The stud only runs about $2-$3 at the dealership, and is very cheap insurance...these studs are known for getting heat stressed, cracking, then breaking...even if the tensioner pully is new...

 

I've price out some aftermarket tensioners at about $50, although I plan to use Nissan. As said about this is cheap insurance. The aftermarket t-belts run from $16 to $25 (again I plan to use Nissan). Pretty cheap, belt, the Mitsu 3.0 run about $100. BTW, does the tensioner come with the pulley? On the 3.0 Mitsu they are separate.

 

There is only one part # ( 13070-42L00 ) for that Tensioner from Nissan so it should be bearing/pulley. Here are some other part#s:

Belt-timing..............13028-16E10
Stud-T .................13073-V5001
Spring .................13072-V5210
Stud .................08216-62510

You can also change the lock washer and hex nut if you want all new.

I been getting my Nissan parts from http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/
they give 25% off list, dealers where I live used to give 25% off but not anymore. If your not in a hurry give them a try.

Al