Well I decided to shave the MAXIMA off my trunk. Used fishing line to get off the plastic emblem that went fine. Started taking off the adhesive it was taking too long so I took a razor blade to the stuff (Yeah I know, I'm a moron)and scratched the hell out of my trunk. The scratches aren't too deep and at certain angles you can't even see them. But being the perfectionist that I am the scratches are really starting to **** me off. I've tried Meguiars Scratch X and it hides some of them, I even used a wax stick...of course it didn't work that well. Whats the next step? Can I fix this problem myself? If not,How much to have a detail shop fix it? Any help would be much appreciated

 

 

mine just came off with a cloth and soap
i guess keep trying to use scratch and swirl mark removers...they might help...

 

Buy a PorterCable Buffer.

 

When they polish out scratches they start with was that has fine particles and go to different waxes/poliches that have bigger particles until the scratches are gone. I'd talk to someone in an auto parts store and geth a couple of rubbing compounds. Start with the fine stuff and if that doesn;t do it, go with the next one and finish up again wit the fine stuff. Did well for me on my 94 Accord. But the Max has 3 stage paint...so not sure how that will work. GL

 

use a hairdryer next time. mine came off (again) in about 8 minutes.
ididnt use floss much this time. i jus kept pulling at it while the glue was hot.
then i jus rubbed the glue off the car and there you go
and i thought id leave it on this time

 

wtf man, stop being such a **** (8===D)

 

yep.. i agree.. your a moron....

 

try getting it buffed. good luck!

 

comon guys dont be mean i did the same to my intrepid.. but hey i just used a buffer and rubbing compound and vowla! scratchless paint.

 

I was being mean

 

I agree with this guy, you were supposed to use rubing alchohol to get the stiky stuff off, now to remove the scratches you have to use a buffer, then some bondo and touch up paint and clear coat it, use a blow drier to dry it, it hardens and becomes really shiny, then when it drys use Momas Wax

 

Bondo

 

i do believe you mean VôILA!

 

ummmm, i may be the moron here, since i can't see why you would need body filler for scratches that were created with an exacto blade, scratches so small, that in his own words "The scratches aren't too deep and at certain angles you can't even see them."

 

holy sh*t...ur screwed =X

if u can't get it off with wax, maybe touch up paint? if not jus get a VERY VERY BIG universal muffler to show ur true intention!

 

Take some 1200 grit paper to it, and buff it, it should come out.

 

ok guys to the majority of you ppl writin gon this thread.. stop typing. save us from your stupidity.

 

use 1500 grit wet sand paper from a auto part store, sand the area lightly remember to use water when doing this sanding. After this then take the 2000 grit then do the same..remember sand lightly with water.

wildmaxi

 

Deezo, i dont know how u put that thing under your name (that little animation) but its funny as hell, mad props

 

dude STFU...he isn't doing any major body work here, just trying to hide some scratches.

 

dude, just go somewhere else.

 

You had better be kidding. You are an complete idiot.

 

rubbing compound and some patience will get rid of them

 

He sure is an idiot. He's posting useless crap like this all over the board. He never had the guts to come back to try to defend himself though.

 

you moron!! just kidding get 3m imperial hand glaze. that works really well and if u use it with a buffer it will narrow the minor scuffs down. then buff it up with some wax.

 

I use to appraise damage to vehicles for an insurance company.

That being said, try this.

Run over the scratches with your fingernail. Can you feel them? If so, they cannot be buffed out. If it's scratched through the clear you won't be able to do a wet sand either. At that point you'd have to take it to a good body shop where they would possibly use a body filler prior to priming and painting the deck lid (trunk). Body filler, when used properly, fills imperfections such as scratches that penetrate the paint.

BTW, most dealer body shops are not as good as reputable ones owned by sole proprietorships.

Good luck.

 

yep.

 

A razor blade to your paint....

Nothing you can do will help now. You can buff out scratches that don't go through the paint, but if it's through the paint there is no way you can buff it out. The person who said if you can catch a nail on it you need the bodyshop is correct. If the paint isn't there anymore, you can't polish it back on somehow. You have two options at this point...

1.) Touch Up Paint...which I have enver had any luck with

2.) Repaint the trunk.

 

Sharp objects + painted metal = SCRATCHES

 

So sad



There are some good suggestions on here.
Try a good buffing compound, if that doesn't work use the wet sand paper and then buff. If that still doesn't work then your SOL, and get it painted.

 

You guys are actually willing to wet sand your car? Don't you think that's...oh I don't know...maybe a little AGRESSIVE!?!? Heavy polish will do the same thing much more gently, albeit more slowly. I just hate to see people recommending wet sanding, because a lot of people don't get what's actually going on with polish and scratches and stuff.

A scratch that you can wet sand out can be taken out with the finest glaze you can find...it will just take more time. All polish does is remove clearcoat/paint...NOTHING else. I hope that people aren't getting the impression that wet sanding will fix problems that polishing cannot. The only problems that polishing or wetsanding can fix are scrathces that only penetrate the clear coat or part way through the paint. You are just trying to smooth the paint/clearcoat around the scratch to match the depth of the scratch...so why not do it slowly with polish, which is hard to screw up, rather than wet sanding, which could make an even bigger mess.

If you have a big white scratch that goes all the way through the paint, no amount of polish or wet sanding is going to fix it. Sometimes polishing a deep scratch can help minimize it's appearance a bit, but there's only so much you can do. Wax can help cover up scratches a TINY bit. Very light or very small scratches sometimes disappear when you wax, but they will always come back.

 

Actually, have you ever used a VERY fine sandpaper on wood? If you keep using it it only makes the wood very smooth. The sandpaper would eventually prove to be useless. Sure, if you kept replinishing the sandpaper it might be a different story. You'd likely have to go through hundreds of gallons of glaze to get through just the clear coat (especially if applied by hand or even PC).

I definitely do not recommend wet sanding to a novice. But it has applications where even the most aggressive compound fails.

But then again, what do I know.

 

The reason, I suggest wet sanding , is because...my bro got his car keyed...from the little knowledge I had gained working at a body shop...I wet sanded it for him..well after I did this...the keyed marks were gone...the marks were about 1-2mm deep

 

Well first of all there is no need for "defending myself", as for the rude and idiotic comments, "Yuk,Yuk,Yuk,Yuk". Good ones. To all who gave decent and sometimes good advice, Thank You. As for the scratches, like I said very minor; any other person could probably live with them. It is a 97' and it has plenty of little scratches and door dings on the car the thing with those is that I didn't do them average wear and tear on any car you put on the road did those. The scratches on the trunk I did, that is why I wanted to fix them. To all who suggested some light rubbing compound it worked, thank you. To all you losers who had to spend a day thinking of how to try and diss a fellow MAXIMA brother you can all go *%$# yourself. Thank you I'm out.

 

Glad the compound worked for you.

BTW, don't ever try using a scotch-brite pad to remove bugs from your hood. Not that I would know from a personal experience or anything.