I don't plan on running the stock pully for a whole lot longer than I have to. Once I get around to installing the new clutch and breaking it in, I'm going to put a smaller one in.

Is it worth it at this point to dyno-tune the car? I know I'll have to buy an AFC eventually, so that's not the issue. I'm assuming I'll have to re-tune it which each pully swap? Correct?

Are there many gains to be had in tuning the stock pully? I know I'm crazy rich as my EGT's are around 1350* at the end of the quarter mile. Would it be safe/smart to just tune it at the track? Shoot for 1450* EGT's or so by making small adjustments?

 

IMHO, not worth tuning unless you're genuinely interested in getting the best 1/4 time with the 3.60" pulley.

Yes, you'll have to tune the car after each pulley swap. The adjustments will be minor, but you still need to get on a dyno to do it.

 

Is it stupid to buy the AFC now ('cause I'll need it one way or the other later) and tweak it at the track?

 

Nope, not stupid.

Yes, you can tweak it at the track, but it's not totally safe to do it that way. The temp also depends on where you mount the EGT probe, so your 1350 might be colder than someone else's 1300 (if temps were taken at the same point). The risk isn't that high, but just don't go crazy with the percentages... like below -35% or something.

 

Well, do I want to shoot for similar EGT's that I had NA? I've had the EGT guage for quite a while (NOS last year) so I know where I used to be...

I also have a AF guage that always shows the last purdy green light when I'm boosting.

 

Nope, don't shoot for similar EGT's... a tad on the rich side (lower temp than NA) is better until you get on the dyno.

Autometer A/F gauge.......

 

Makes sense, thanks.

Its just a place holder. Didn't want 2 guages in the 3 guage DIN now, did I? Its better than the voltmeter.

 

Get a Wideband O2. This isn't the best place to get it, but it has some info. http://www.suprastore.com/fjowidbano2s.html

On the dyno (comparing with the shop's wideband O2) the FJO was within +/-.1 of the actual A/F. Lets you tune on the fly
-hype

 

$$$

I think I'd rather pay to dyno a few times.

 

True, it isn't exactly cheap. However, had you known you were going this route you could have passed on the EGTs, Autometer A/F, gauge pod, and dynoes That would have paid for the wideband
-hype

 

I'd still want the EGT just in case, and dyno's serve more than 1 purpose. I'm going to want to know what kind of numbers I'm making at some point.

 

$835.20

 

I totally understand. I just look at things from a cost benefit perspective. You could have several individual dynos for less than $100, but hour tuning sessions add up pretty fast.

From what I've heard you can get the FJO for around $750 or so. Running 2 EGTs with it would definitely let you know what's going on.
-hype