Do you know the part # for the K&N filter that came with it? My filter is dirty and would rather get a new one than clean it. Why o why did I get the Berk

 

RU-2820 is the K&N part #

 

Is there another type of filter that would perform better. It seems the only reason to get the K&N is to be able to re-clean it. I am worried about over oiling it and getting the oil on my maf. Any other options?

 

I am pretty sure that you can use any K&N filter with a 3" opening, aside from the ru-2820. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Other option is an Apexi, but it needs a different mounting bracket right? And it's crazy expensive.

 

You can get the Apexi Filter. A lot ppl have it and love it. It's an oil free filter. So basically after 50K or so you just throw it away. Their pricey though. Like $65 or so

 

Do you actually know the part # for the Apexi, and is it a direct fit with the Berk?

 

i think you need a kit to install the apexi on a berk or frankencar intake.

 

Is your K&N filter trashed pretty bad or are you just lazy??

A cleaning kit will only cost you about $10 and an hour of your time.

Just wondering............

Seems like people must love to throw their money away around here. I feel like I'm the only one on a budget!!

 

Baller on a Budget!

 

with a 2k or 2k1 i wouldnt worry as much about the maf. some have died but youve got to consider some are just defective parts. ive cleaned my ru-2820 twice and my rr-3003 once with no problems. as long as you are conservative with the spray and allow it time to dry i dont think youll have a problem. i cleaned my maf with electronic parts cleaner once about 2k miles ago and there was barely any oil on the sensor itself.

 

I have an apexi with adapter I will sell.......

 

Thanks Majestic =)

MadMax,

A few reasons why. It's very dirty and needs cleaning/replacement badly. I do have the cleaning kit but still want a second filter since cleaning it would require downtime of at least a day for it to dry. I use my car everyday so I can't have be without it. I don't want to rush the cleaning/drying/re-oiling process since our MAFS seem to be very sensitive.

Having 2 filters would allow me to install the new one and clean/oil the old one and let it sit in a plastic bag till needed.

 

thats one of the reasons why i have two as well. i typically let mine dry 2 days before i oil them and then at least a week after i oil it before i put it back on.

 

Why

 

no problem

those are the same reasons i was looking for the rr-3003 filter a few months ago.

 

because I don't want/need it anymore. I wanted a larger filter so I got a k&n rr-3003. I will be doing the GAB for the summer so my car doesn't feel so bogged down but the homemade midpipe and rr-3003 will go on when it cools off.

 

btw did anyone dyno their 2k-2k1 with Berk intake w/o midpipe? I couldn't find any 5th gen dyno graphs.

 

2nd Gear Autotragic: Green Line - Stock, Red Line - Berk/Budget Y-pipe, Blue Line - Berk/FrankenCar Midpipe/Budget Y and B pipes

the numbers are Actual HP...i have the SAE numbers in another pic but haven't uploaded it

 

just out of curiousity, why did you dyno in 2nd? 3rd is the closest 1:1 ratio.

 

the Berk/Y dyno was done by the dyno operator ...he did it in second and forgot to do a 3rd gear run so i don't have one of those for comparison.

however, it doesn't matter what gear you're in...the HP measurement at the wheels is for that particular gear and is pretty representative of what you'd get in each gear. i have a recent dyno in both 2nd and 3rd gear and the curve is the same but the numbers are off only +/- 5hp and tq.

even though 3rd is the closest to 1:1, there is still the final drive ratio and the wheel/tire diameters to account for...so the 1:1 transmission gear on a wheel dyno is no more accurate than the other gears