Just Did Air Silencer CAI Mod
Hey guys i just finished the mod about an hour ago. It was so damn easy. Only hard part was going out to collect all the parts needed. Here is what i used..
K&N Panel Filter $44.99
4" Metal Duct $8.49
4" Duct Coupler $3.29
4" to 3" flex coupler $6.29
I also bought a grill to block stuff from getting in the tube but didnt use it. Ok here is how you use the parts you just got..
Drop in the k&n filter.. Easy..
1. Remove the Stock intake box by taking off the 2 sensor connectors and removing the 2 front screws. To remove the sensors stick i flat head screwdriver on the green arrow and press in and down.
2. Pull the box up and the pipe underneath should just drop out.
3. Connect your flex coupler to the bottom of the stock box and tighten.
4. Shove the duct coupler all the way into one end of the metal ducting and put the whole thing in the 4" section of the flex coupler and tighten. The purpose of the metal coupler is to provide strength and regidity to the metal duct where it is clamped.
5. Look into the engine bay and figure out where you want the pipe end to be. I put mine right under the right part of the radiator fan. That way it doesnt draw hot air from the engine and its most out of the way.
6. Put everything back together and go test that bad boy.
I noticed a definate increase in throttle responce especially when passing. A tap of the gas caused a down shift and it takes off. Its not much louder but sounds alot meaner than before. Total cost was about 65 bucks too!
Ill post install pics later on..
Adam
K&N Panel Filter $44.99
4" Metal Duct $8.49
4" Duct Coupler $3.29
4" to 3" flex coupler $6.29
I also bought a grill to block stuff from getting in the tube but didnt use it. Ok here is how you use the parts you just got..
Drop in the k&n filter.. Easy..
1. Remove the Stock intake box by taking off the 2 sensor connectors and removing the 2 front screws. To remove the sensors stick i flat head screwdriver on the green arrow and press in and down.
2. Pull the box up and the pipe underneath should just drop out.
3. Connect your flex coupler to the bottom of the stock box and tighten.
4. Shove the duct coupler all the way into one end of the metal ducting and put the whole thing in the 4" section of the flex coupler and tighten. The purpose of the metal coupler is to provide strength and regidity to the metal duct where it is clamped.
5. Look into the engine bay and figure out where you want the pipe end to be. I put mine right under the right part of the radiator fan. That way it doesnt draw hot air from the engine and its most out of the way.
6. Put everything back together and go test that bad boy.
I noticed a definate increase in throttle responce especially when passing. A tap of the gas caused a down shift and it takes off. Its not much louder but sounds alot meaner than before. Total cost was about 65 bucks too!
Ill post install pics later on..
Adam
Cool stuff! Nice job. I was wondering though. In the initial discussions regarding this mod here, I thought the setup was to just use the stock air inlet and then stick tubing from the bottom of that (before it got to the resonator box under the battery) to the air filter box. In your setup, you took a tube and just stuck it to the end of the air filter box. The only advantage I see with using the stock air inlet is that there is no chance of getting water up your intake. But your setup may actually provide more air
Okay.. I just put my stock airbox back on. I think I see where the confusion is coming from. The tubing doesn't attach to the airbox itself. It attaches to the plubming between the scoop part and the box itself. The bottom of the tubing has a large 4" hole and thats where the tubing goes.
2000MaximaSE, where did you buy your supplies? Do you have a part number for the k&n filter? I can't wait to do this myself.
2000MaximaSE, where did you buy your supplies? Do you have a part number for the k&n filter? I can't wait to do this myself.
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Hey,I did that a while ago ,but didn't see much diference between that and a filter.I spent nothing to do it.I just took some parts around my garage and put it together.It was easy to do.But it looked GHETTO so I took it out and put back the filter.
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
Pics will help too
Adam
Originally posted by 2000MaximaSE
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
Originally posted by 2000MaximaSE
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
2K2DEMAX also did this mod to his car a few weeks back. Isaw it last week and it looks pretty cool. Hes been pleased with the results as well and noted that the car feels stronger than it did with the Stillen intake. With the Stillen intake, he was having troubles breaking the 15.0 barrier. (He also has a Cali spec car with the Cattman Y.) With the new intake, he now runs 14.8's. Since Mad Max is retired, I made one pass with his car last time out and also ran a 14.8 @ 95 (2.21) backing up his runs.
But, I can say for sure, the Cali spec cars have a serious midrange torque deficit versus the Fed spec cars. Its really obvious seat of the pants.
But, I can say for sure, the Cali spec cars have a serious midrange torque deficit versus the Fed spec cars. Its really obvious seat of the pants.
Custom CAI
Here are 3 pics of my Custom CAI. Unfortunately I don't have any of it mounted on the car and as you will see I wasn't going for any beauty awards but it does work!! 
http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00007.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00008.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00010.JPG

http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00007.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00008.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/muddy_wright2/DSC00010.JPG
Does the black flex tubing have to bent and weave a lot, or just a bit. If possible, it may be more effective to use white pvc piping. That way the path for the air to travel would be smoother (instead of the ribbed tubing) and with thicker walls to make it more durable over the long run. Just an idea....
Originally posted by FloMax
Does the black flex tubing have to bent and weave a lot, or just a bit. If possible, it may be more effective to use white pvc piping. That way the path for the air to travel would be smoother (instead of the ribbed tubing) and with thicker walls to make it more durable over the long run. Just an idea....
Does the black flex tubing have to bent and weave a lot, or just a bit. If possible, it may be more effective to use white pvc piping. That way the path for the air to travel would be smoother (instead of the ribbed tubing) and with thicker walls to make it more durable over the long run. Just an idea....
Peace...
Ya mine looks like yours except i used metal flex tubing instead. Where does the end of yours come out? There is splash guard down there so it doesnt hang above open space. I might get down there and bend it so its facing some colder air
Adam
Adam
Mine runs straight down from the inlet to the bottom of the car. The bottom edge of it actually hangs about 0.5" below the splash guard so I'm getting the cool air from under the car. I think that because mine is rubber tubing I have a easier task "pointing" it. I tell you, I would really like to place it in the front of the car (the opening below the licence plate) facing forward but the radiator takes up the entire space. 
Peace...

Peace...
Originally posted by 2000MaximaSE
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
Ok ill try to clarify on some steps. Take a look at the stock air box and you will notice a L shaped pipe going from the box down to a white box. This is the pipe you remove. When you take out the air box you will see a 3" hole on the bottom. This is where you attatch the 3" to 4" flex coupler. Then stick the metal tube in it and run it down.. Hope this helps out
Pics will help too
Adam
<img src="http://www.cyberhosts.net/~gotrice/products/misc/pmax0_10.jpg">
<img src="http://www.cyberhosts.net/~gotrice/products/misc/pmax0_06.jpg">
Its kinda hard to see in got rice's pics. In the 2nd pic you can see the top of where the tube goes. It's right above the battery. You don't actually do anything to the stock box itself. When I do the mod I'll be taking pics.. unless someone gets theirs up sooner.
hmmm
So your saying it is better than still intake??? just wondering what kind of particles its letting in your engine man.... think i may stick with my amsoil filter...haven't even put it in yet.. going to wait for after winter..
Is the 5th gen intake that much different from the 4th gen intake? I did this mod recently and I used piece of 2.5" ID shop-vac hose from Sears. The hose literally snaps into the prior resonator inlet which is slightly larger than 2.5" ID. What in the diameter of the resonator inlet on the 5th gen intake?
I also removed the resonator that sits inbetween the MAF and throttle body (I don't know if the 5th gen has this or not). I'm very happy with this mod vs my HKS intake which was nice, but pulled in a little too much hot air and made too much noise.
Dave
I also removed the resonator that sits inbetween the MAF and throttle body (I don't know if the 5th gen has this or not). I'm very happy with this mod vs my HKS intake which was nice, but pulled in a little too much hot air and made too much noise.
Dave
Due to gravity and the scoop intake, water should be no concern. Put a screen at the end of the hose and anything sucked in should be filterd by your k&n panel. You can't choke it cause it'll still have the scoop. Sounds safe to me.
Re: hmmm
Originally posted by DeaZaL
So your saying it is better than still intake??? just wondering what kind of particles its letting in your engine man.... think i may stick with my amsoil filter...haven't even put it in yet.. going to wait for after winter..
So your saying it is better than still intake??? just wondering what kind of particles its letting in your engine man.... think i may stick with my amsoil filter...haven't even put it in yet.. going to wait for after winter..
Originally posted by Dave B
Is the 5th gen intake that much different from the 4th gen intake? I did this mod recently and I used piece of 2.5" ID shop-vac hose from Sears. The hose literally snaps into the prior resonator inlet which is slightly larger than 2.5" ID. What in the diameter of the resonator inlet on the 5th gen intake?
I also removed the resonator that sits inbetween the MAF and throttle body (I don't know if the 5th gen has this or not). I'm very happy with this mod vs my HKS intake which was nice, but pulled in a little too much hot air and made too much noise.
Dave
Is the 5th gen intake that much different from the 4th gen intake? I did this mod recently and I used piece of 2.5" ID shop-vac hose from Sears. The hose literally snaps into the prior resonator inlet which is slightly larger than 2.5" ID. What in the diameter of the resonator inlet on the 5th gen intake?
I also removed the resonator that sits inbetween the MAF and throttle body (I don't know if the 5th gen has this or not). I'm very happy with this mod vs my HKS intake which was nice, but pulled in a little too much hot air and made too much noise.
Dave
Originally posted by 2000MaximaSE
The metal is stiff enough to stay in place. I didnt use a grate on the end of mine either. Im gona change it to pvc soon though for better air flow
Adam
The metal is stiff enough to stay in place. I didnt use a grate on the end of mine either. Im gona change it to pvc soon though for better air flow
Adam
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tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Dec 20, 2021 06:57 PM



wohoo!
