Which leads me to believe that I have a vaccum problem. I know the Harlan is working because the VI opens a little but it won't open all the way. LED lights up as well.

I believe it's my vaccum canister that is causing the problem. When the car is turned off and I remove the hose from the canister to the MAP I don't get a vaccum release. So that makes me think the check valve inside the vaccum canister is not working.
So I thought that putting a seperate check valve in between the canister and the FPR(vaccum source) should make things work. It did not.

if the check valve is bad inside the canister, then why wouldn't a separte check valve outside the canister work? Or does it not work that way? Any thoughs, or should I just go buy a new vaccume canister.

thanks for any help

 

Ok, I am just going to get a new canister. I have the nappa one now and would rather not buy another one. Any suggestions on where to get a reliable vacuum canister with a bulit in check valve??

thanks

 

are we talking about the EVAP canister? im unsure.

 

No. the vaccum canister used to open the butterfly vavles on the VIM.

Well, It looks like I am going to try and make my own vaccum canister with some DIY directions I found.(thanks Mishmosh)

 

When installing my VI, there were some problems w/leaks, it was actually just because the hoses I got in my kit weren't a perfect fit, just make sure that everything else is totally secure before you go through with the new canister.

 

I find it hard to fault the Napa canister unless there is a leak in it. I also think that leaks from the hose ends is also unlikely if you use the right sizes. Either you are not storing sufficient vacuum or your butterfly arm is too difficult to turn for a properly working vacuum system. People have had problems with both. You can easily buy a cheap vacuum guage to see what the canister is storing (should be equal to manifold vacuum). Also, pulling the vacuum lever by hand should also but easy to do with only spring tension counteracting your force.

 

I just tried to post a long response but the server would not let me

So in a nut shell, I have vaccum through out my system, all the way up to the VI accuator. I do not get a rush of air when disconnecting the hose from the canister right when the car is turned off, which I shold be getting.
The VI tries to open, but it just seems not to be enough vaccum held by the canister to do it.
The Napa canister gave the previous owner Brian(briguymax) probelem before and he had to get a new one.

I see if maybe the accuator needs to be lubed of adjusted, that may be the problem.

All my hoses are connected fine.

Don't these symtoms seem like a bad check valve inside the canister? What would the VI system act like without a check valve?

Thanks for everyones responses so far.

 

I'd agree with mishmosh that its not too likely for your canister to be at fault, I wouldn't replace it unless you've tried just about everything else. Just as a side note while you're messing around with your VI, take off the top and make sure all your screws are still in place. It seems like a few people are running into some serious problems with that.

 

already checked the screws, everything was

I have checked everything else so I don't know what else it would be I'll let you all know what the soultion was when I get it fixed. My JWT ECU should be here soon so I want my VI up and running.

 

Where did you tap into get yor vacuum source? I would just check all of your vac hoses. I even put zip ties on the end of each hose to make sure everything was tight.

 

FPR.

 

You guys seem to be missing this, Mike had a perfectly functioning VI for the past month or 2, and just now it has stopped working. His VI is trying to open there just isn't enough vacuum to open it. Also the vacuum canister is NOT storing vacuum. Sounds like a vac canister problem to me.

 

I had to buy smaller diameter hoses because the ones the came in the kit didnt fit tight enough on the napa can and were loose. However Iilac still uses the other hoses with the napa and works just fine.

 

Well, I really don't mind spending $12 on a new canister. If it does not fix the problem then I am really confused.

What stinks is that the Napa where I am at(I am on a kinda vacation this week) cannot get the canister I need. They had never seen such a thing before. So I have to wait till I get home to fix this I guess. No VI on the 1000 mille trip home is won't be fun. Speeding through the hills of Missouri is really fun.

Oh, and thanks for your help today Neal.

 

OK, it does sound like your canister has a leak. Either that or the hose to it is leaking. In any case, the NAPA is just plastic with two ends glued one it so it certainly is possible. Definitely if you are putting an additional check valve in line and it doesn't work, the built-in check valve is probably not the problem. And if you are losing vacuum immediately after shutting off the car, the leak is probably quite large.

 

How has your homemade one held up? Thanks for posting that write-up BTW.

 

Try this can.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...art=crn99590-1

You can also try tapping a vacuum gauge or a hand vacuum pump, which has a vacuum gauge in it, right after the map switch. Run some vacuum hose through the hood(firewall side) and in through of your door window. Take a reading at full throttle. It takes about 10-15 inch hg of vacuum to open the vi.

If you need a new map switch I have an extra one.

I hooked up a snap action switch(http://www.tselectronic.com/gc/switches/35_824.html) and mounted a led light in the car. So there is no doubt when the vi is open or closed.

 

Heh heh... I've actually relocated the canister to a less heat-susceptible area so I've gone back to the NAPA. I have an extra check valve just in case the NAPA built-in unit fails.

 

I have a brand new still in the box nice and big vacuum can from summit racing if you want it, ill sell it cheap. I had it for my VI but i had to cancel the VI order cause i had to sell my car. here it is http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=SUM%2DG1464

 

If I try and use a seperate check valve it should be hooked up like this right?:

between the cansiter and the vaccum source with the check valve allowing air to flow twords the canister.

 

This is Off topic but my vim valves are making metal hitting metal noises. When I manually lift up the valves, it stops making the noises. Do any of you guys experienced that? How did u get rid of it?

Thanks.

 

You better make sure that screws haven't come loose and your valves are flapping freely. My valves don't make any noise and they shouldn't. you should only hear a metal noise when the valves open or close shut.

As for the check valve, yeah, you just put it in between the vacuum source and the canister. Air flow is TO the vacuum source (remember, we are talking vacuum). If installed the reverse way, the canister will have NO vacuum at all. Same deal if you reverse the ports of the NAPA--if I remember correctly, the larger port should go to the vacuum source (ie. has the check valve).

 

Thanks.
I might take ya up on the MAP switch if it turns out not to be my canister.

 

I was thinking of using the switch on the actuator also. But wasn't sure where to mount it. How did you mount yours? Any pics? That's way better than using the rpm switch signal.

ZuM

 

Yhea, I'd like to meet up sometime and see how you have your whole VI set up.

 

Yea we can hook up. I don't have any pics.

 

Take pics when you guys meet up!

 

Mike, this is the canister you want and its from a 5th Gen Max:

Tank Assy Press - 22370-2y500

$22.00 from Jerry Rome Nissan