light pinging on 2K2 or 2K3 auto when accelerating lightly?
light pinging on 2K2 or 2K3 auto when accelerating lightly?
Does anyone out there w/an unmodded 2K2 or 2K3 auto experience some light pinging under these conditions? I started noticing recently that sometimes on pretty level ground, at low speed (between 30-45) and low RPMs, if I accelerate lightly, sometimes I get some light pinging/knocking (detonation). It's not close to 100% reproducible.
I'm guessing the engine is lugging a bit since it's at a pretty low RPM (I should look at the tach the next time). Sometimes the tranny downshifts, sometimes it doesn't.
I use 92 octane gas from Arco. I have NOT had my timing changed nor have I had the acceleration hesitation TSB done. I will try some other brand when I get a chance.
Any thoughts?
(Yes, I've seen the part in the manual that says "However, now and then you may notice light spark knock for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load." Almost every car manual I've read has a statement to that effect.)
I'm guessing the engine is lugging a bit since it's at a pretty low RPM (I should look at the tach the next time). Sometimes the tranny downshifts, sometimes it doesn't.
I use 92 octane gas from Arco. I have NOT had my timing changed nor have I had the acceleration hesitation TSB done. I will try some other brand when I get a chance.
Any thoughts?
(Yes, I've seen the part in the manual that says "However, now and then you may notice light spark knock for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load." Almost every car manual I've read has a statement to that effect.)
I have a 2k2 6-spd, and I get light pinging under medium load at about 2600-2800rpm. I use Mobil 93. It's annoying when it happens, but I've come to believe there's not much that can be done about it.
I tow a Carolina Skiff 19DLX 850lb boat with my maxima under WOT/HOT/LOT and get no pinging (yes im a crazy ****). Maybe a MAF update and ECU update may help? I use 93 octane from Chevron. Try some octane boost? Weird no SES light?
Originally posted by cwerdna
Correct. No SES light. Mine is a pretty early 2K2 (bought it 11/30/01), so it's very likely that the MAF will need changing.
Correct. No SES light. Mine is a pretty early 2K2 (bought it 11/30/01), so it's very likely that the MAF will need changing.
Under heavy throttle It would ping, then knock and timing would retard, felt like I had a boosted applicated with fuel issues (used to run boost in my old Honda), very persistent leaning and knocks, it was like the knock sensors were missing.
Although I'm modded, I've had the same experience. I tried several different brands of 93 octane gasolines. I used each brand for 3 tank fulls. With Mobil I get good performance and very slight pinging every so often while climbing hills. Shell, I get decreased gas mileage and more pinging than any other gasoline. I thought it may have been that particular Shell station so I tried another for 3 tank fulls and still the same results. With Texaco I had good performance and slight pinging while going up hills. Sunoco 94 octane, great performance and absolutely no pinging. Amoco Gold, great performance and absolutely no pinging. I hope this hleps.
Originally posted by Virus
Although I'm modded, I've had the same experience. I tried several different brands of 93 octane gasolines. I used each brand for 3 tank fulls. With Mobil I get good performance and very slight pinging every so often while climbing hills. Shell, I get decreased gas mileage and more pinging than any other gasoline. I thought it may have been that particular Shell station so I tried another for 3 tank fulls and still the same results. With Texaco I had good performance and slight pinging while going up hills. Sunoco 94 octane, great performance and absolutely no pinging. Amoco Gold, great performance and absolutely no pinging. I hope this hleps.
Although I'm modded, I've had the same experience. I tried several different brands of 93 octane gasolines. I used each brand for 3 tank fulls. With Mobil I get good performance and very slight pinging every so often while climbing hills. Shell, I get decreased gas mileage and more pinging than any other gasoline. I thought it may have been that particular Shell station so I tried another for 3 tank fulls and still the same results. With Texaco I had good performance and slight pinging while going up hills. Sunoco 94 octane, great performance and absolutely no pinging. Amoco Gold, great performance and absolutely no pinging. I hope this hleps.
It's normal guys. No I'm not being a smart azz like Nissan's usual self. It's what new cars are programmed to do for optimum emissions and better fuel economy. The dealer might be able to reduce it some by retarding the base ignition timing, however it's not doing any harm so I wouldn't worry.
As long as you are using a premium grade fuel this shouldn't be a concern as long as it happens slightly when it's HOT out and under heavy load conditions such as going up hill, A/C on, and/or lugging the engine.
I personally have found that Chevron 91-octane is the best fuel to minimize detonation, which will allow more ECU advance and thus more hp.
As long as you are using a premium grade fuel this shouldn't be a concern as long as it happens slightly when it's HOT out and under heavy load conditions such as going up hill, A/C on, and/or lugging the engine.
I personally have found that Chevron 91-octane is the best fuel to minimize detonation, which will allow more ECU advance and thus more hp.
Originally posted by IceY2K1
It's normal guys. No I'm not being a smart azz like Nissan's usual self. It's what new cars are programmed to do for optimum emissions and better fuel economy. The dealer might be able to reduce it some by retarding the base ignition timing, however it's not doing any harm so I wouldn't worry.
As long as you are using a premium grade fuel this shouldn't be a concern as long as it happens slightly when it's HOT out and under heavy load conditions such as going up hill, A/C on, and/or lugging the engine.
I personally have found that Chevron 91-octane is the best fuel to minimize detonation, which will allow more ECU advance and thus more hp.
It's normal guys. No I'm not being a smart azz like Nissan's usual self. It's what new cars are programmed to do for optimum emissions and better fuel economy. The dealer might be able to reduce it some by retarding the base ignition timing, however it's not doing any harm so I wouldn't worry.
As long as you are using a premium grade fuel this shouldn't be a concern as long as it happens slightly when it's HOT out and under heavy load conditions such as going up hill, A/C on, and/or lugging the engine.
I personally have found that Chevron 91-octane is the best fuel to minimize detonation, which will allow more ECU advance and thus more hp.
I have the same problem
I have 2k3 Max. I bought it in july of 2k2.I would sometimes get a slight knock when I would lightly accelerate aroud 2000 rpm, even on level streets. I have taken my car to the dealer five times for this problem with no results. I have contacted Nissan's customer service about the problem and they sent me to a dealer that they would consult with on the matter. They asked what kind of gas and what octain I was using (Chevron 91 octain, in California that is the highest rating you can buy). They in turn called me and stated that the computer gave no codes, the coils were good (but were replaced anyway) and the rest of the drivetrain checked out fine. They stated that it is normal for a slight ping to occur at low rpms and this would not hurt my engine at all.
On my 2k3 Max, I rarely get any pinging at all. I use Amoco premium but only infrequently drive the car very hard. Absent of throwing any codes or perhaps having one of the older MAFs, I tend to think this is directly related the the quality and make-up of fuel in each particular area of the country. For example, here in Memphis, there is no MBTE, etc required during certain seasons or for emissions reasons.
Originally posted by unrealii
Anyone tried different spark plugs? Maybe ones which run cooler? I'm no mechanic so please dont hurt me if I'm wrong ;-)
Anyone tried different spark plugs? Maybe ones which run cooler? I'm no mechanic so please dont hurt me if I'm wrong ;-)
You are losing a small amount of power, but nothing a CAI can't gain back.
I also have a slight pinging problem but only when its real hot outside and with a/c on. It is noticable on the freeway cruising about 80 mph and sometimes its consistent. The dealer told me it was my Injen cold air intake piping because it was right next to my radiator and sucking in hot air so I switched to a JWT intake and now the dealer tells me its sucking hot air from the engine WTF?! The dealer also told me that the pinging thing is normal and its listed in the owners manual as a normal "spark knock" and it's nothing to worry about plus it also says it actually gives you better gas mileage. I think Nissan printed that part to cover their *** just in case they have alot of complaints regarding the issue
!!!It's NORMAL!!!
Please READ this!!!
Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition
Please READ this!!!
Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition
Detonation
Unburned end gas, under increasing pressure and heat (from the normal progressive burning process and hot combustion chamber metals) spontaneously combusts, ignited solely by the intense heat and pressure. The remaining fuel in the end gas simply lacks sufficient octane rating to withstand this combination of heat and pressure.
Detonation causes a very high, very sharp pressure spike in the combustion chamber but it is of a very short duration. If you look at a pressure trace of the combustion chamber process, you would see the normal burn as a normal pressure rise, then all of a sudden you would see a very sharp spike when the detonation occurred. That spike always occurs after the spark plug fires. The sharp spike in pressure creates a force in the combustion chamber. It causes the structure of the engine to ring, or resonate, much as if it were hit by a hammer. Resonance, which is characteristic of combustion detonation, occurs at about 6400 Hertz. So the pinging you hear is actually the structure of the engine reacting to the pressure spikes. This noise of detonation is commonly called spark knock. This noise changes only slightly between iron and aluminum. This noise or vibration is what a knock sensor picks up. The knock sensors are tuned to 6400 hertz and they will pick up that spark knock. Incidentally, the knocking or pinging sound is not the result of "two flame fronts meeting" as is often stated. Although this clash does generate a spike the noise you sense comes from the vibration of the engine structure reacting to the pressure spike.
One thing to understand is that detonation is not necessarily destructive. Many engines run under light levels of detonation, even moderate levels. Some engines can sustain very long periods of heavy detonation without incurring any damage. If you've driven a car that has a lot of spark advance on the freeway, you'll hear it pinging. It can run that way for thousands and thousands of miles. Detonation is not necessarily destructive. It's not an optimum situation but it is not a guaranteed instant failure. The higher the specific output (HP/in3) of the engine, the greater the sensitivity to detonation. An engine that is making 0.5 HP/in3 or less can sustain moderate levels of detonation without any damage; but an engine that is making 1.5 HP/in3, if it detonates, it will probably be damaged fairly quickly, here I mean within minutes.
Detonation causes three types of failure:
1. Mechanical damage (broken ring lands)
2. Abrasion (pitting of the piston crown)
3. Overheating (scuffed piston skirts due to excess heat input or high coolant temperatures)
The high impact nature of the spike can cause fractures; it can break the spark plug electrodes, the porcelain around the plug, cause a clean fracture of the ring land and can actually cause fracture of valves-intake or exhaust. The piston ring land, either top or second depending on the piston design, is susceptible to fracture type failures. If I were to look at a piston with a second broken ring land, my immediate suspicion would be detonation.
Another thing detonation can cause is a sandblasted appearance to the top of the piston. The piston near the perimeter will typically have that kind of look if detonation occurs. It is a swiss-cheesy look on a microscopic basis. The detonation, the mechanical pounding, actually mechanically erodes or fatigues material out of the piston. You can typically expect to see that sanded look in the part of the chamber most distant from the spark plug, because if you think about it, you would ignite the flame front at the plug, it would travel across the chamber before it got to the farthest reaches of the chamber where the end gas spontaneously combusted. That's where you will see the effects of the detonation; you might see it at the hottest part of the chamber in some engines, possibly by the exhaust valves. In that case the end gas was heated to detonation by the residual heat in the valve.
In a four valve engine with a pent roof chamber with a spark plug in the center, the chamber is fairly uniform in distance around the spark plug. But one may still may see detonation by the exhaust valves because that area is usually the hottest part of the chamber. Where the end gas is going to be hottest is where the damage, if any, will occur.
Because this pressure spike is very severe and of very short duration, it can actually shock the boundary layer of gas that surrounds the piston. Combustion temperatures exceed 1800 degrees. If you subjected an aluminum piston to that temperature, it would just melt. The reason it doesn't melt is because of thermal inertia and because there is a boundary layer of a few molecules thick next to the piston top. This thin layer isolates the flame and causes it to be quenched as the flame approaches this relatively cold material. That combination of actions normally protects the piston and chamber from absorbing that much heat. However, under extreme conditions the shock wave from the detonation spike can cause that boundary layer to breakdown which then lets a lot of heat transfer into those surfaces.
Engines that are detonating will tend to overheat, because the boundary layer of gas gets interrupted against the cylinder head and heat gets transferred from the combustion chamber into the cylinder head and into the coolant. So it starts to overheat. The more it overheats, the hotter the engine, the hotter the end gas, the more it wants to detonate, the more it wants to overheat. It's a snowball effect. That's why an overheating engine wants to detonate and that's why engine detonation tends to cause overheating.
Many times you will see a piston that is scuffed at the "four corners". If you look at the bottom side of a piston you see the piston pin boss. If you look across each pin boss it's solid aluminum with no flexibility. It expands directly into the cylinder wall. However, the skirt of a piston is relatively flexible. If it gets hot, it can deflect. The crown of the piston is actually slightly smaller in diameter on purpose so it doesn't contact the cylinder walls. So if the piston soaks up a lot of heat, because of detonation for instance, the piston expands and drives the piston structure into the cylinder wall causing it to scuff in four places directly across each boss. It's another dead give-a-way sign of detonation. Many times detonation damage is just limited to this.
Some engines, such as liquid cooled 2-stroke engines found in snowmobiles, watercraft and motorcycles, have a very common detonation failure mode. What typically happens is that when detonation occurs the piston expands excessively, scurfs in the bore along those four spots and wipes material into the ring grooves. The rings seize so that they can't conform to the cylinder walls. Engine compression is lost and the engine either stops running, or you start getting blow-by past the rings. That torches out an area. Then the engine quits.
In the shop someone looks at the melted result and says, "pre-ignition damage". No, it's detonation damage. Detonation caused the piston to scuff and this snowballed into loss of compression and hot gas escaping by the rings that caused the melting. Once again, detonation is a source of confusion and it is very difficult, sometimes, to pin down what happened, but in terms of damage caused by detonation, this is another typical sign.
While some of these examples may seem rather tedious I mention them because a "scuffed piston" is often blamed on other factors and detonation as the problem is overlooked. A scuffed piston may be an indicator of a much more serious problem which may manifest itself the next time with more serious results.
In the same vein, an engine running at full throttle may be happy due to a rich WOT air/fuel ratio. Throttling back to part throttle the mixture may be leaner and detonation may now occur. Bingo, the piston overheats and scuffs, the engine fails but the postmortem doesn't consider detonation because the the failure didn't happen at WOT.
I want to reinforce the fact that the detonation pressure spike is very brief and that it occurs after the spark plug normally fires. In most cases that will be well after ATDC, when the piston is moving down. You have high pressure in the chamber anyway with the burn. The pressure is pushing the piston like it's supposed to, and superimposed on that you get a brief spike that rings the engine.
Unburned end gas, under increasing pressure and heat (from the normal progressive burning process and hot combustion chamber metals) spontaneously combusts, ignited solely by the intense heat and pressure. The remaining fuel in the end gas simply lacks sufficient octane rating to withstand this combination of heat and pressure.
Detonation causes a very high, very sharp pressure spike in the combustion chamber but it is of a very short duration. If you look at a pressure trace of the combustion chamber process, you would see the normal burn as a normal pressure rise, then all of a sudden you would see a very sharp spike when the detonation occurred. That spike always occurs after the spark plug fires. The sharp spike in pressure creates a force in the combustion chamber. It causes the structure of the engine to ring, or resonate, much as if it were hit by a hammer. Resonance, which is characteristic of combustion detonation, occurs at about 6400 Hertz. So the pinging you hear is actually the structure of the engine reacting to the pressure spikes. This noise of detonation is commonly called spark knock. This noise changes only slightly between iron and aluminum. This noise or vibration is what a knock sensor picks up. The knock sensors are tuned to 6400 hertz and they will pick up that spark knock. Incidentally, the knocking or pinging sound is not the result of "two flame fronts meeting" as is often stated. Although this clash does generate a spike the noise you sense comes from the vibration of the engine structure reacting to the pressure spike.
One thing to understand is that detonation is not necessarily destructive. Many engines run under light levels of detonation, even moderate levels. Some engines can sustain very long periods of heavy detonation without incurring any damage. If you've driven a car that has a lot of spark advance on the freeway, you'll hear it pinging. It can run that way for thousands and thousands of miles. Detonation is not necessarily destructive. It's not an optimum situation but it is not a guaranteed instant failure. The higher the specific output (HP/in3) of the engine, the greater the sensitivity to detonation. An engine that is making 0.5 HP/in3 or less can sustain moderate levels of detonation without any damage; but an engine that is making 1.5 HP/in3, if it detonates, it will probably be damaged fairly quickly, here I mean within minutes.
Detonation causes three types of failure:
1. Mechanical damage (broken ring lands)
2. Abrasion (pitting of the piston crown)
3. Overheating (scuffed piston skirts due to excess heat input or high coolant temperatures)
The high impact nature of the spike can cause fractures; it can break the spark plug electrodes, the porcelain around the plug, cause a clean fracture of the ring land and can actually cause fracture of valves-intake or exhaust. The piston ring land, either top or second depending on the piston design, is susceptible to fracture type failures. If I were to look at a piston with a second broken ring land, my immediate suspicion would be detonation.
Another thing detonation can cause is a sandblasted appearance to the top of the piston. The piston near the perimeter will typically have that kind of look if detonation occurs. It is a swiss-cheesy look on a microscopic basis. The detonation, the mechanical pounding, actually mechanically erodes or fatigues material out of the piston. You can typically expect to see that sanded look in the part of the chamber most distant from the spark plug, because if you think about it, you would ignite the flame front at the plug, it would travel across the chamber before it got to the farthest reaches of the chamber where the end gas spontaneously combusted. That's where you will see the effects of the detonation; you might see it at the hottest part of the chamber in some engines, possibly by the exhaust valves. In that case the end gas was heated to detonation by the residual heat in the valve.
In a four valve engine with a pent roof chamber with a spark plug in the center, the chamber is fairly uniform in distance around the spark plug. But one may still may see detonation by the exhaust valves because that area is usually the hottest part of the chamber. Where the end gas is going to be hottest is where the damage, if any, will occur.
Because this pressure spike is very severe and of very short duration, it can actually shock the boundary layer of gas that surrounds the piston. Combustion temperatures exceed 1800 degrees. If you subjected an aluminum piston to that temperature, it would just melt. The reason it doesn't melt is because of thermal inertia and because there is a boundary layer of a few molecules thick next to the piston top. This thin layer isolates the flame and causes it to be quenched as the flame approaches this relatively cold material. That combination of actions normally protects the piston and chamber from absorbing that much heat. However, under extreme conditions the shock wave from the detonation spike can cause that boundary layer to breakdown which then lets a lot of heat transfer into those surfaces.
Engines that are detonating will tend to overheat, because the boundary layer of gas gets interrupted against the cylinder head and heat gets transferred from the combustion chamber into the cylinder head and into the coolant. So it starts to overheat. The more it overheats, the hotter the engine, the hotter the end gas, the more it wants to detonate, the more it wants to overheat. It's a snowball effect. That's why an overheating engine wants to detonate and that's why engine detonation tends to cause overheating.
Many times you will see a piston that is scuffed at the "four corners". If you look at the bottom side of a piston you see the piston pin boss. If you look across each pin boss it's solid aluminum with no flexibility. It expands directly into the cylinder wall. However, the skirt of a piston is relatively flexible. If it gets hot, it can deflect. The crown of the piston is actually slightly smaller in diameter on purpose so it doesn't contact the cylinder walls. So if the piston soaks up a lot of heat, because of detonation for instance, the piston expands and drives the piston structure into the cylinder wall causing it to scuff in four places directly across each boss. It's another dead give-a-way sign of detonation. Many times detonation damage is just limited to this.
Some engines, such as liquid cooled 2-stroke engines found in snowmobiles, watercraft and motorcycles, have a very common detonation failure mode. What typically happens is that when detonation occurs the piston expands excessively, scurfs in the bore along those four spots and wipes material into the ring grooves. The rings seize so that they can't conform to the cylinder walls. Engine compression is lost and the engine either stops running, or you start getting blow-by past the rings. That torches out an area. Then the engine quits.
In the shop someone looks at the melted result and says, "pre-ignition damage". No, it's detonation damage. Detonation caused the piston to scuff and this snowballed into loss of compression and hot gas escaping by the rings that caused the melting. Once again, detonation is a source of confusion and it is very difficult, sometimes, to pin down what happened, but in terms of damage caused by detonation, this is another typical sign.
While some of these examples may seem rather tedious I mention them because a "scuffed piston" is often blamed on other factors and detonation as the problem is overlooked. A scuffed piston may be an indicator of a much more serious problem which may manifest itself the next time with more serious results.
In the same vein, an engine running at full throttle may be happy due to a rich WOT air/fuel ratio. Throttling back to part throttle the mixture may be leaner and detonation may now occur. Bingo, the piston overheats and scuffs, the engine fails but the postmortem doesn't consider detonation because the the failure didn't happen at WOT.
I want to reinforce the fact that the detonation pressure spike is very brief and that it occurs after the spark plug normally fires. In most cases that will be well after ATDC, when the piston is moving down. You have high pressure in the chamber anyway with the burn. The pressure is pushing the piston like it's supposed to, and superimposed on that you get a brief spike that rings the engine.
Causes
Detonation is influenced by chamber design (shape, size, geometry, plug location), compression ratio, engine timing, mixture temperature, cylinder pressure and fuel octane rating. Too much spark advance ignites the burn too soon so that it increases the pressure too greatly and the end gas spontaneously combusts. Backing off the spark timing will stop the detonation. The octane rating of the fuel is really nothing magic. Octane is the ability to resist detonation. It is determined empirically in a special running test engine where you run the fuel, determine the compression ratio that it detonates at and compare that to a standard fuel, That's the octane rating of the fuel. A fuel can have a variety of additives or have higher octane quality. For instance, alcohol as fuel has a much better octane rating just because it cools the mixture significantly due to the extra amount of liquid being used. If the fuel you got was of a lower octane rating than that demanded by the engine's compression ratio and spark advance detonation could result and cause the types of failures previously discussed.
Production engines are optimized for the type or grade of fuel that the marketplace desires or offers. Engine designers use the term called MBT ( Minimum spark for Best Torque) for efficiency and maximum power; it is desirable to operate at MBT at all times. For example, let's pick a specific engine operating point, 4000 RPM, WOT, 98 kPa MAP. At that operating point with the engine on the dynamometer and using non-knocking fuel, we adjust the spark advance. There is going to be a point where the power is the greatest. Less spark than that, the power falls off, more spark advance than that, you don't get any additional power.
Now our engine was initially designed for premium fuel and was calibrated for 20 degrees of spark advance. Suppose we put regular fuel in the engine and it spark knocks at 20 degrees? We back off the timing down to 10 degrees to get the detonation to stop. It doesn't detonate any more, but with 10 degrees of spark retard, the engine is not optimized anymore. The engine now suffers about a 5-6 percent loss in torque output. That's an unacceptable situation. To optimize for regular fuel engine designers will lower the compression ratio to allow an increase in the spark advance to MBT. The result, typically, is only a 1-2 percent torque loss by lowering the compression. This is a better trade-off. Engine test data determines how much compression an engine can have and run at the optimum spark advance.
For emphasis, the design compression ratio is adjusted to maximize efficiency/power on the available fuel. Many times in the aftermarket the opposite occurs. A compression ratio is "picked" and the end user tries to find good enough fuel and/or retards the spark to live with the situation...or suffers engine damage due to detonation.
Another thing you can do is increase the burn rate of the combustion chamber. That is why with modem engines you hear about fast burn chambers or quick burn chambers. The goal is the faster you can make the chamber burn, the more tolerant to detonation it is. It is a very simple phenomenon, the faster it burns, the quicker the burn is completed, the less time the end gas has to detonate. If it can't sit there and soak up heat and have the pressure act upon it, it can't detonate.
If, however, you have a chamber design that burns very slowly, like a mid-60s engine, you need to advance the spark and fire at 38 degrees BTDC. Because the optimum 14 degrees after top dead center (LPP) hasn't changed the chamber has far more opportunity to detonate as it is being acted upon by heat and pressure. If we have a fast burn chamber, with 15 degrees of spark advance, we've reduced our window for detonation to occur considerably. It's a mechanicalphenomenon. That's one of the goals of having a fast burn chamber because it is resistant to detonation.
There are other advantages too, because the faster the chamber burns, the less spark advance you need. The less time pistons have to act against the pressure build up, the air pump becomes more efficient. Pumping losses are minimized. In other words, as the piston moves towards top dead center compression of the fuel/air mixture increases. If you light the fire at 38 degrees before top dead center, the piston acts against that pressure for 38 degrees. If you light the spark 20 degrees before top dead center, it's only acting against it for 20. The engine becomes more mechanically efficient.
There are a lot of reasons forfast burn chambers but one nice thing about them is that they become more resistant to detonation. A real world example is the Northstar engine from 1999 to 2000. The 1999 engine was a 10.3:1 compression ratio. It was a premium fuel engine. For the 2000 model year, we revised the combustion chamber, achieved faster bum. We designed it to operate on regular fuel and we only had to lower the compression ratio .3 to only 10:1 to make it work. Normally, on a given engine (if you didn't change the combustion chamber design) to go from premium to regular fuel, it will typically drop one point in compression ratio: With our example, you would expect a Northstar engine at 10.3:1 compression ratio, dropped down to 9.3:1 in order to work on regular. Because of the faster burn chamber, we only had to drop to 10:1. The 10:1 compression ratio still has very high compression with attendant high mechanical efficiency and yet we can operate it at optimum spark advance on regular fuel. That is one example of spark advance in terms of technology. A lot of that was achieved through computational fluid dynamics analysis of the combustion chamber to improve the swirl and tumble and the mixture motion in the chamber to enhance the bum rate.
Production engines are optimized for the type or grade of fuel that the marketplace desires or offers. Engine designers use the term called MBT ( Minimum spark for Best Torque) for efficiency and maximum power; it is desirable to operate at MBT at all times. For example, let's pick a specific engine operating point, 4000 RPM, WOT, 98 kPa MAP. At that operating point with the engine on the dynamometer and using non-knocking fuel, we adjust the spark advance. There is going to be a point where the power is the greatest. Less spark than that, the power falls off, more spark advance than that, you don't get any additional power.
Now our engine was initially designed for premium fuel and was calibrated for 20 degrees of spark advance. Suppose we put regular fuel in the engine and it spark knocks at 20 degrees? We back off the timing down to 10 degrees to get the detonation to stop. It doesn't detonate any more, but with 10 degrees of spark retard, the engine is not optimized anymore. The engine now suffers about a 5-6 percent loss in torque output. That's an unacceptable situation. To optimize for regular fuel engine designers will lower the compression ratio to allow an increase in the spark advance to MBT. The result, typically, is only a 1-2 percent torque loss by lowering the compression. This is a better trade-off. Engine test data determines how much compression an engine can have and run at the optimum spark advance.
For emphasis, the design compression ratio is adjusted to maximize efficiency/power on the available fuel. Many times in the aftermarket the opposite occurs. A compression ratio is "picked" and the end user tries to find good enough fuel and/or retards the spark to live with the situation...or suffers engine damage due to detonation.
Another thing you can do is increase the burn rate of the combustion chamber. That is why with modem engines you hear about fast burn chambers or quick burn chambers. The goal is the faster you can make the chamber burn, the more tolerant to detonation it is. It is a very simple phenomenon, the faster it burns, the quicker the burn is completed, the less time the end gas has to detonate. If it can't sit there and soak up heat and have the pressure act upon it, it can't detonate.
If, however, you have a chamber design that burns very slowly, like a mid-60s engine, you need to advance the spark and fire at 38 degrees BTDC. Because the optimum 14 degrees after top dead center (LPP) hasn't changed the chamber has far more opportunity to detonate as it is being acted upon by heat and pressure. If we have a fast burn chamber, with 15 degrees of spark advance, we've reduced our window for detonation to occur considerably. It's a mechanicalphenomenon. That's one of the goals of having a fast burn chamber because it is resistant to detonation.
There are other advantages too, because the faster the chamber burns, the less spark advance you need. The less time pistons have to act against the pressure build up, the air pump becomes more efficient. Pumping losses are minimized. In other words, as the piston moves towards top dead center compression of the fuel/air mixture increases. If you light the fire at 38 degrees before top dead center, the piston acts against that pressure for 38 degrees. If you light the spark 20 degrees before top dead center, it's only acting against it for 20. The engine becomes more mechanically efficient.
There are a lot of reasons forfast burn chambers but one nice thing about them is that they become more resistant to detonation. A real world example is the Northstar engine from 1999 to 2000. The 1999 engine was a 10.3:1 compression ratio. It was a premium fuel engine. For the 2000 model year, we revised the combustion chamber, achieved faster bum. We designed it to operate on regular fuel and we only had to lower the compression ratio .3 to only 10:1 to make it work. Normally, on a given engine (if you didn't change the combustion chamber design) to go from premium to regular fuel, it will typically drop one point in compression ratio: With our example, you would expect a Northstar engine at 10.3:1 compression ratio, dropped down to 9.3:1 in order to work on regular. Because of the faster burn chamber, we only had to drop to 10:1. The 10:1 compression ratio still has very high compression with attendant high mechanical efficiency and yet we can operate it at optimum spark advance on regular fuel. That is one example of spark advance in terms of technology. A lot of that was achieved through computational fluid dynamics analysis of the combustion chamber to improve the swirl and tumble and the mixture motion in the chamber to enhance the bum rate.
Very interesting and informative article.
The 3.5L VQ engine I calculated has 1.197 HP/in3. So, it's somewhere in the middle... hmm.
I know that higher compression ratios means that it's easier to knocking to occur. Our engine has a compression ratio of 10.3:1 just like the 1999 Northstar engine they cited.
An engine that is making 0.5 HP/in3 or less can sustain moderate levels of detonation without any damage; but an engine that is making 1.5 HP/in3, if it detonates, it will probably be damaged fairly quickly, here I mean within minutes.
I know that higher compression ratios means that it's easier to knocking to occur. Our engine has a compression ratio of 10.3:1 just like the 1999 Northstar engine they cited.
Originally posted by cwerdna
Very interesting and informative article.
The 3.5L VQ engine I calculated has 1.197 HP/in3. So, it's somewhere in the middle... hmm.
I know that higher compression ratios means that it's easier to knocking to occur. Our engine has a compression ratio of 10.3:1 just like the 1999 Northstar engine they cited.
Very interesting and informative article.
The 3.5L VQ engine I calculated has 1.197 HP/in3. So, it's somewhere in the middle... hmm.
I know that higher compression ratios means that it's easier to knocking to occur. Our engine has a compression ratio of 10.3:1 just like the 1999 Northstar engine they cited.
The factory ECU will not allow harmful levels of detonation to occur as long as everything is functioning and you are using a premium fuel. Your power WILL suck though.
update
Well, I called Pacific Nissan and told them I wanted the TSB done and about the light pinging. I wanted them to order the new MAF sensor since mine was a pretty early build (10/01), and they gave me the story saying they couldn't order it first, blah blah blah, they have to diagnose it first, parts dept. takes a hit if they don't need it, etc. So, I was like "so if it needs a need MAF I'll have to bring it in a 2nd time?" and they said yes. 
Anyways, I brought it in today and sure enough they at the end of the day, they said yeah, the ECM needs to be reprogrammed and it needs a new MAF "if it's pinging like that". So, it's on order... have to go there again when they get it. Waste of time...

Anyways, I brought it in today and sure enough they at the end of the day, they said yeah, the ECM needs to be reprogrammed and it needs a new MAF "if it's pinging like that". So, it's on order... have to go there again when they get it. Waste of time...
Re: update
Originally posted by cwerdna
Well, I called Pacific Nissan and told them I wanted the TSB done and about the light pinging. I wanted them to order the new MAF sensor since mine was a pretty early build (10/01), and they gave me the story saying they couldn't order it first, blah blah blah, they have to diagnose it first, parts dept. takes a hit if they don't need it, etc. So, I was like "so if it needs a need MAF I'll have to bring it in a 2nd time?" and they said yes.
Anyways, I brought it in today and sure enough they at the end of the day, they said yeah, the ECM needs to be reprogrammed and it needs a new MAF "if it's pinging like that". So, it's on order... have to go there again when they get it. Waste of time...
Well, I called Pacific Nissan and told them I wanted the TSB done and about the light pinging. I wanted them to order the new MAF sensor since mine was a pretty early build (10/01), and they gave me the story saying they couldn't order it first, blah blah blah, they have to diagnose it first, parts dept. takes a hit if they don't need it, etc. So, I was like "so if it needs a need MAF I'll have to bring it in a 2nd time?" and they said yes.

Anyways, I brought it in today and sure enough they at the end of the day, they said yeah, the ECM needs to be reprogrammed and it needs a new MAF "if it's pinging like that". So, it's on order... have to go there again when they get it. Waste of time...
I sure hope that fixes it and you don't have to waste more time.
seems mostly fixed now
I finally got the TSB done. The receipt states they reprogrammed the ECU and replaced the MAF sensor.
Under the conditions (level or nearly level ground) and light throttle, I don't hear anymore knocking. I do hear a bit when using somewhat heavier throttle going up somewhat steep hills when it's hot out (85 to 91 degrees) w/AC on.
Under the conditions (level or nearly level ground) and light throttle, I don't hear anymore knocking. I do hear a bit when using somewhat heavier throttle going up somewhat steep hills when it's hot out (85 to 91 degrees) w/AC on.
Originally posted by nick778
On my 2k3 Max, I rarely get any pinging at all. I use Amoco premium but only infrequently drive the car very hard. Absent of throwing any codes or perhaps having one of the older MAFs, I tend to think this is directly related the the quality and make-up of fuel in each particular area of the country. For example, here in Memphis, there is no MBTE, etc required during certain seasons or for emissions reasons.
On my 2k3 Max, I rarely get any pinging at all. I use Amoco premium but only infrequently drive the car very hard. Absent of throwing any codes or perhaps having one of the older MAFs, I tend to think this is directly related the the quality and make-up of fuel in each particular area of the country. For example, here in Memphis, there is no MBTE, etc required during certain seasons or for emissions reasons.
wel thats the funny thing the ping doesnt happen when driven hard. Actually i started runnin my car hard so i wont have to hear my ping. well i did go up to the higest octane i could find ( 94 octane )and have checked out the make up and yes in nyc we have all that added crap. i also have traveled to NJ to buy gas maybe thats a help. I will run at least 3 tanks through and then i will go in armed with the TSB. Also what is an early year considered? My 2002 was built in March 2002. ive seen 2002's built in Nov.2001 is mine still a Early maxima?? Thank you, you been BIG HELP!
Originally posted by jieloner
wel thats the funny thing the ping doesnt happen when driven hard. Actually i started runnin my car hard so i wont have to hear my ping. well i did go up to the higest octane i could find ( 94 octane )and have checked out the make up and yes in nyc we have all that added crap. i also have traveled to NJ to buy gas maybe thats a help. I will run at least 3 tanks through and then i will go in armed with the TSB. Also what is an early year considered? My 2002 was built in March 2002. ive seen 2002's built in Nov.2001 is mine still a Early maxima?? Thank you, you been BIG HELP!
wel thats the funny thing the ping doesnt happen when driven hard. Actually i started runnin my car hard so i wont have to hear my ping. well i did go up to the higest octane i could find ( 94 octane )and have checked out the make up and yes in nyc we have all that added crap. i also have traveled to NJ to buy gas maybe thats a help. I will run at least 3 tanks through and then i will go in armed with the TSB. Also what is an early year considered? My 2002 was built in March 2002. ive seen 2002's built in Nov.2001 is mine still a Early maxima?? Thank you, you been BIG HELP!
Originally posted by jieloner
wel thats the funny thing the ping doesnt happen when driven hard. Actually i started runnin my car hard so i wont have to hear my ping. well i did go up to the higest octane i could find ( 94 octane )and have checked out the make up and yes in nyc we have all that added crap. i also have traveled to NJ to buy gas maybe thats a help. I will run at least 3 tanks through and then i will go in armed with the TSB. Also what is an early year considered? My 2002 was built in March 2002. ive seen 2002's built in Nov.2001 is mine still a Early maxima?? Thank you, you been BIG HELP!
wel thats the funny thing the ping doesnt happen when driven hard. Actually i started runnin my car hard so i wont have to hear my ping. well i did go up to the higest octane i could find ( 94 octane )and have checked out the make up and yes in nyc we have all that added crap. i also have traveled to NJ to buy gas maybe thats a help. I will run at least 3 tanks through and then i will go in armed with the TSB. Also what is an early year considered? My 2002 was built in March 2002. ive seen 2002's built in Nov.2001 is mine still a Early maxima?? Thank you, you been BIG HELP!
holy old thread, batman...
wow, first off, pinging and detonation are two different things. an overheating condition can accentuate pinging, but if the pinging is caused by a lean condition, which it is, it would take a signifigant decrease, which might cause other issues.
if its too much of an annoyance, the best thing to do, probably, would be to retard a few degrees timing.
wow, first off, pinging and detonation are two different things. an overheating condition can accentuate pinging, but if the pinging is caused by a lean condition, which it is, it would take a signifigant decrease, which might cause other issues.
if its too much of an annoyance, the best thing to do, probably, would be to retard a few degrees timing.
Couple additional thoughts on the "pinging" issue. Try pulling your spark plugs and evaluate their condition for lean burning situations. If you discover that all the plugs in one bank look like they've been running lean then the problem could be a bad O2 sensor for that bank. If all the plugs look like they've been running lean then you could have a fuel pressure issue, clogged injectors or a bad knock sensor . . .
otr a bad MAF sensor. a bad o2 will almost always throw a code, because the PCM is looking for the switching, and when its being commanded to a different state, and doesnt respond, the ECM will detect it.
for excessive pinging, id do a carbon blast, check the MAF and check the fuel im using.
for excessive pinging, id do a carbon blast, check the MAF and check the fuel im using.
Originally Posted by cwerdna
I finally got the TSB done. The receipt states they reprogrammed the ECU and replaced the MAF sensor.
Under the conditions (level or nearly level ground) and light throttle, I don't hear anymore knocking. I do hear a bit when using somewhat heavier throttle going up somewhat steep hills when it's hot out (85 to 91 degrees) w/AC on.
Under the conditions (level or nearly level ground) and light throttle, I don't hear anymore knocking. I do hear a bit when using somewhat heavier throttle going up somewhat steep hills when it's hot out (85 to 91 degrees) w/AC on.
Originally Posted by Rayn4est
How much $$ did this run you?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
umnitza
Group Deals / Sponsors Forum
0
Sep 1, 2015 01:03 PM




