I removed the bellows, primary air tube and airbox on my '93 V30GE.

They were replaced by:

- 3" to 3" rubber/stainless steel plumbing sleeve w/integrated strap clamps to the intake,

- 3" long by 3" ID PVC stub,

- 3" to 3" rubber elbow w/strap clamps to the MAF,

- MAF to K$N cone filter look-alike.

wOw. What a difference.

Problem is, I want to aim the rubber elbow down umder the near corner of the battery tray.

The only way to do this without a GREAT DEAL of extra tubing is to move the MAF farther than the MAF Cable will allow.

Does anyone have EXPERIENCE with extending the MAF Cable. Opinions as always are welcome, but hard experience is what is required here.

Thanks in advance.


-Joe

 

pvc = no no

try replacing that pvc section with something else.

 

why no PVC?

 

Because, when heated, PVS puts out toxic fumes that are not only harmful to the ozone layer, but potentially letal for YOU as well. Plus, PVC is soooo and GHETTO-FABULOUS

 

The common DWV (Drain-Waste-Vent) PVC is not a good thing to use in a hot area, like underhood. There are different types that are better, but still Ghetto-Fabulous! Schedule 40 PVC will withstand heat better without the fumes, but it is thicker walled and may not fit. There is also Schedule 80 which is normally a gray color, stronger yet and even better at resisting heat. But it is even larger then Schedule 40.

Best bet is mandrel bent 3" stainless.....

 

wOw,

Didn't expect all the attention being paid to my poor little Sched40 PVC sleeve!! And to think that I was happy to save the $120 bucks not including shipping. Silly me . . I used *that* money to purchase Tokico Performance shocks, and a set of Eibach Pro-kit springs.

True, the ghetto-licious factor may be high, but my rig looks more official (and more importantly, performs better) than the silly rubber bellows that came on the car.

The low to mid-range torque improvement is rather astonishing.

So far anyway, the heat issue has not reared its ugly head. I am closely monitoring for problems however. I had thought of installing a shelf insulator regardless . . a piece of compressed fiberglass, parallel to the ground, between the exhaust and intake manifold.

Oh well. Guess I'll just have to suffer with the instant throttle response until I can find a stainless or ceramic CAI to blow some bucks on. Although I *could* use oversized front/rear sways to complement the strut tower bracing. Hmmmm, after all . . the "ghetto" rig IS working. lol

BTW, www.ptuning.com is planning on releasing a header/y-pipe combination, part number PT70-1033. I expect that with some heat tape, those headers won't be able to melt my PVC sleeve either. ;O)

 

Spoke too soon. ARRRGH The PVC stub is showing signs of minor but definite deformation.

Found a one foot section of polished stainless tubing at www.mcmaster.com for 16 bucks. That looks like the way to go.

 

McMaster-Carr is a GREAT place to get low buck performance stuff. I've used their 80 and 90 shore pourable urethane to build solid motor mounts with. I can usually find bearings to replace rubber bushings in things like the shifter shifter cable and such. All Super Cheap cause it's raw materials, not finished products.

great place, great stuff, great pricing.

The real downside is they have SO much stuff you can get lost in their catalog.....