So I finally finished the install on my y-pipe, and it was not too bad. The worst part was getting the d@mn nuts off. Anyways, I took it for a spin and noticed a few things that I am kind of worried about.

1) When coming to a stop, or slowing down, the tach rises and falls randomly and finally idles after stopping between 400-650 rpms. Sometimes, it seems that the car might stall out but it catches itself.

2) On the highway, the rpms stay above 2000 while going over 60mph, but as I slowly brake below 60, the tach falls quickly.

Is this normal? I'm pretty sure that all of the seals on the y-pipe are tight.

What are the normal rpms during: startup? over 60 with foot off gas? stoped at red light? neutral?
I remember that there is a thread with this info but I cannot search.
Thanks!

THD

EDIT (added):
I started a post a few days ago in regards to my y-pipe install and how my car was stalling because I did not bolt the y-pipe to the Cat but instead clamped it. I took Deezo's advice and bolted everything on tonite, and when I took her on a second spin (after my post above), my max did the exact same thing as it did the other night. It kept on stalling on me. The tach would rise and fall and then it would die. Or when I accelerate, it seemed like the gas cut off for a sec and then come back on, which made my car jerk. I don't know what to do!
Also, as I was resetting my ECU tonite, after all of this trauma, as I turn the key to "ON, " I would hear a buzzing noice coming from the under the hood.It would stop when I push down the pedal, ut come back on when I let go. After close examination, it seemed like it was coming from near the battery. THEN, after I start the car, I hear a ticking coming from the engine area.
Does anyone have any clue about any of this? I have never had such a hard time with any mod before and I am starting to think that y-pipes suck! Actually, just mine does, or maybe I just do.

Please help!
THANKS!
THD

 

did you reset your ECU?

 

i did reset my ecu and even did a diagnostic test. I got 0505 which means "no problem found."

 

how would u reset the ecu????

 

this should help max98vspec

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931

 

weird......no problem after my y pipe installed.

 

the only thing I can think of is the O2 sensors. they are not screwed in all the way to where the washers do not wobble. They stil do wobble a tiny bit, but I can't seem to tightn the O2 sensors anymore. Can that be the problem? And I'm sure the crush rings are in place.

 

When I did my y pipe install, the threads for the O2 sensors
were too tight. I had to chase them with a tap to get them
in properly. I don't think the pipe has anything to do with
the idle/stalling or the ticking. It seems from reading this
forum that the most common cause of the idle trouble you
describe is a dirty throttle body. The reported ticking noises
are said to come from the IACV when it's operating. So, IACV
noises and idle problems. I'd check the TB and clean it.
I think you'd get a code from the ECU if the O2 sensors
were a problem.

 

I agree pedalkick, but I cleaned my TB about 3-4 weeks ago. I can check it again in the morning, but I doubt that it can be the problem. I have never heard anyone else with this problem! This is not fair Dammit! By the way, What's an IACV? And if it was a problem, would I get it from ECU diagnostics?

 

my car did the same thing with the rpms droping did u make sure you turned your screw all the way back to the right position it is supposed to sit in?

 

That could very well be your problem. It's easy to leave the screw in diagnostic mode. It will cause problems with your idle and cause you IACV to tick.

 

It's morning now, and i just uninstalled the pipe, and reinstalled it. The crush rings are in place, and the O2 sensors are also in place. Everything seems tightened and such. I put my key in the ignition and turn and the car gives me a little turn and it chokes. I turn off the car, then try it again, and the engine still wont start. Edit: (It will only start when jump-started)
I'm starting to think that the y-pipe is not the problem. Do you think that it can be the alternator? I just changed the battery 1 week ago. If it was the Alt, shouldn't I be getting ECU codes? I am just full of problems, sorry everyone!

THD

 

Also, can you explain the right position. I assume the right position would be alligned with the blue stripe on the plastic. And the CEL light would not be blinking, it would be steady. Yup, it's in the right position.

 

When you say it doesn't start, do you mean it's not cranking at all or just plan dead?

If it's cranking, it's not the alternator.

If it's completely dead, get a boost. If this starts your car, then it's the alternator.

BTW- Which Y-pipe did you install? Budget? I'm thinking of getting mine replaced as well. Also, did you have a hard time unbolting it off? I'm afraid I might run into this problem and fear the fact I might have to hack it off.

 

My car does start after a boost. I have a Budget and the unbolting was a pain in the @ss. The 2 sets of 3 nuts going up are not too bad. But the two on the Cat are all shoddy! I got one off, but had to hack the other one and then drill a new hole to put in a new bolt and screw. With the problems that I am having, I regret not going to a shop and having it done.

Can the alternator have anything to with the rpms rising and falling? How much is it to replace an alternator?

THD

 

As someone else asked...did you remember to (gently!) turn back the ECU screw all the way counter-clockwise untill it hits the stop? If left all the way clockwise, your IACV will tick like crazy and your idle may be whacked.

 

thanx maxceleration.

 

It is in the right position, as I stated in an earlier thread.

Thanks,
THD

 

My Iacv Ticks too, but i have no problems with idle...Could it just be a bad iacv? I dont really notice any problems, the idle fluctuates a little, but the car never wants to stall or anything...the screw is all the way to the left on my ecu.... btw the iacv only ticks after the car is warm, after its been running a while

 

you should check your MAF you might have messed with it or it is just giving out on you. I you know someone else with a maxima ask to switch your with his and see if that helps.

 

If you have even the smallest air leak at the O2 sensors your engine is going to behave in a very erratic way, just the way you describe. Get the O2 sensors in there good and tight. I'll bet you a donut your problems will go away.

 

a Donut!?

 

i'LL TRY TIGHTENING THE o2 SENSORS EVEN MORE, BUT HOW DO i TURN THEM MORE THAN THEY WANT TO GO? i DON'T WANT TO STRIP ANYTHING AND i DON'T WANNA BUST THEM.

 

Don't do it! Like I said, the threaded hole was distorted from welding. When
I tried to use a little more force than should have been necessary, the
threads on the sensor started to strip. I backed it out before too much
damage was done, but I had to file the sensor threads to get it to go in
again. After the threads in the pipe were chaced with a tap, the sensors
went in very easy, all the way by hand with no thread lube, then tightened
with a wrench. Because of the heat, the threads on both the pipe and
sensor become very dry and are likey to bind if the clearance is inadequate.
Some say to not use any thread lube as it may contaminate the sensor
element. The softest piece gets shredded which is the sensor.
Chase the threads with a tap which probably can be done without
removing the pipe.

 

Check your throttle cables.