so my clutch is slipping a little in every gear now..
I want to try holding out till spring break or when i go home in may before I do anything.

what are my best options when I go about fixing this? I was thinking about replacing it with one of the LSD trannys, but those are pretty hard to come by. I'm probably going to do the labor myself to save $, so I'm just trying to figure out what I should get for parts..

 

get a clutchmasters from ultrarev.com

 

just go with a stock clutch. they are the best, unless you got a good amount of power added.

you want to change to a limited slip?

 

I've been toying with the idea of changing to limited slip...I drive in the snow a lot, but I haven't gotten stuck yet and probably wont want tos pend the extra money..

 

An ACT can destroy your life if you don't respect it. However, if respected it's one of the best clutches out there.

If you're more conservative, I've heard great things about the Exeddy clutches. Supposedly they make near-stock clutches as well as performance clutches.

 

hmm..their 'organic' clutch sounds like a pretty good substitute for the stock one.

 

Thats what i would go with too. Ive been looking in to a new clutch also and am holding out as long as possible.
The Exedy Stage 1 Performance clutch i think was something like 15% holding capacity (or whatever holding is supposed to be) over stock. ACT uses exedy organic discs in their street strip kit, so i believe the only difference is the heavy duty pressure plate used, and not to mention the more than $100 savings when going with exedy.
Exedy is your best bet, because in the beginning i read about how much people liked their ACT clutches, and then weird occurances of people toasting trannies stared to emerge.....probably due to driver error.

 

yeah...I dont have a need for the ACT's extra holding power..didn't realize they usd Exedy discs in some of their products though. I've found the Exedy 'organic' clutches for just under $300 with free shipping so far. Says the driveability is similar to the stock clutch, but with 36% more holding power.

 

$300 sounds kinda hihg?

 

I dunno..its the best price I've found so far...its a kit that also has a new pressre plate and throw out bearing..

 

How do you know that your clutch is slipping? Mine is acting kinda weird latey but i don't know what the symptoms are.

 

no matter what gear I'm in, if I step on the gas, the tach will jump up at least a few hundred RPM for a second before falling back down and then the car starts to respond relative to what the tach is doing...

 

I have an exedy stage one, from ebay... its like 140 or something, and its great and far superior than stock.... it life, i dont know about, ive only had it since august when my differential bearings blew!

 

Gears won't shift into one another easily, and mostly the RPM increase when there generally isn't any, what the reply above says...

-Lieb-

 

Uhm...shifting problems are not from a slipping clutch...if you have this problem, there's something wrong with you or your tranny. Case in point: I can shift with total smoothness without my clutch.

A slipping clutch means that the clutch disk is not being pressed against the flywheel hard enough. When you hit the gas, the flywheel turns faster, but the clutch disk slips, so the tranny doesn't spin any faster. When in gear and clutch is engaged (pedal up), any change in the engine speed should be noticed on the speedometer and vice-versa.

This is usually noticeable in the higher gears first. To test it out, get up to about 50mph (up a hill works best) in 5th gear. Slam on the gas pedal while watching your tach and speedometer. Did your tach shoot up while your speedometer stayed relatively the same? If so, your clutch is most likely slipping.

Most probable cause for a slipping clutch is disk wear. But, a clutch master/slave cylinder problem, a warped pressure plate, oil-soaked disk...all kinds of things can cause this. Usually replacing the (worn) disk and throwout bearing is all you need to do.

Consider that in your calculations for replacement cost. If you stay stock, there is a chance you might not need a new pressure plate. Of course, I'd always recommend replacing it, though.

Also factor in ~$40 for a flywheel resurfacing...sometimes it isn't necessary, but it's always a good idea.

 

woah stop driving your car!!man i don't know much about this stuff but by the time i started asking around when my car was slipping,it was to late my car pretty much doesn't move in first and you have to rev high in second so i just stoped driving it.and i went with the act stage 1 because i knew it was a good brand but i had no feed back on it then i here good and bad on it so if you wanna make it home for spring break i suggest stop driving it because mine went out 2 weeks after i noticed it.but when my clutch come in i'll fill you in on it!

 

I am also thinking that my auto is having some problem with shifting and since you seem an expert in this, I really appreciate the suggestion you may have.
My auto shifts hard from 1st to 2nd. If I step on the gas hard, the tach goes up high without increase in speed and there is a loud clunking noise and the car shakes. If applied slowly, the car will shift, but with noticeable jerk forward.

 

Well, I'm far from an expert on transmissions...and I know less about automatics than I do manuals.

But, it sounds to me like your tranny is slipping. Have you checked the fluid? Does it smell/look burnt?

If you've been reading threads like this, I'm sure you realize just how hard it is to diagnose problems via the forum. Personally, I'd be the first to take my car to a real expert. Check out the local transmission shops...have them take a ride and see what they say. Post what they say here, and we'll all tell you if it makes any sense.

 

I did some online search and found that the symptom somewhat fits the following with the grinding gears and low gear phenomenon. But I don't know if it applies to an auto:

'Difficulty Shifting. When you need excessive clutch lever pressure to shift gears, it may indicate either a clutch problem or a transmission problem. If the clutch is at fault , you’ll notice symptoms such as grinding gears when you shift into low or first gear. In most cases if the clutch is at fault, a simple adjustment will solve the problem. If the transmission is at fault you will notice difficult shifting between other gears while the motorcycle is moving. this problem may indicate a bent shift fork or seized gear on the transmission shaft. When a shift fork is damaged, it will no longer fit properly in the grooves of the gear. to fix this problem, you’ll need to disassemble the engine and replace the shift fork. When a gear has seized on the transmission shaft the problem is usually caused by a lack of proper lubrication. As with the shift fork, you’ll also need to disassemble the engine to repair the problem.'

The transmission fluid does not seem to be burned. I am not familiar with the neighborhood and have no information about decent and honest mechanics good at transmission problems around Boston area. But I'll keep searching.

 

That thread is for motorcycles with manual transmissions, though most of it applies. Mainly, you don't need to disassemble the engine in a car

Try the yellow pages...most tranny shops are at least competent when it comes to diagnosing problems.