how much are front strut bearings for our cars? has any of you done 'em yourself besides motorvate? if so, how hard and how long did it take to replace 'em?

how much is the timing chain tensioner...? has any of you done 'em yourself? if so how hard and how long did it take?

should I just wait and see what the next oil change does to the timing chain tensioner because the day I went from valvoline 10W30 with fram filter to mobil 1 supersyn 10W30 with mobil 1 filter, the sound happens on my car when it is really cold and only for 5 min or so....

 

I ve changed both, the timing chain tensioner is on the left hand side of the motor as you are standing looking over the pass fender, the motor mount has to come out, and then take the cover out, also since your doing all this work to change the tensioner (be careful there is a spring and piston in the tensioner which can fall out and go to the bottom of the timing chain cover, mine did got em with a magnet) you might as well change the water pump to if it hasn't been changed, only 115.00 from nissan.

the strut bearings are way easier, they are like 65.00 bucks from napa, and the whole strut comes and you'll need a spring from compressor-can get from auto zone loan a tool, and the you just change out the old with the new.

 

where can I buy an strut mount that includes the strut bearing aswell, does nissan have a kit??

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain

I paid 200 at dealer with parts and 2 oil changes.

 

you can buy parts for cheap here: www.newnissanparts.com

 

Chain tensioner replacement isn't to difficult and the part is like $45 from courtesy. Remove the passenger eng mount, move p.s. reservoir, remove tensioner cover. Unbolt the lower tensioner mounting bolt and just losen the top and it will move slightly and allow you to push in the plunger with a screwdriver and put a push pin or small allen key to hold it back. Reference the new tensioner and you willl understand what I am talking about.

You will need a somewhat long [ shaped tool with some good strength to it that you will position behind the curved chain guide. This will allow you to pull the existing tension of the chain from above the valve cover area because there is not enought room to hold both hands in the small area. This will allow you to remove the tensioner and will also allow the easier installation of the new tensioner. I had a very heavy gauge steel coat hanger type of piece that had a small 1" bend then about 16" then another 1" bend. Place the bent area behing the chain guide and pull on the other bent area and use the other hand to perform the removal and installation of the chain tensioner.

It is difficult to explain but only took about 45 min total to complete and that includes figuring out how to get the additional tension.. Good Luck.