anyone know where to find the battery relocation write up?
ugh...cheston's old site has a complete instruction. but it's down 
and he didn't update on his new server yet...
here's a basic idea:
1) Create a seal at the lid somehow (using trunk gasket, closed-cell foam tape, silicone, etc). Be creative: lotsa ways to do this, I'm sure.
2) Decide on a mounting location for the box & drill for straps or appropriate mounting hardware. (Careful not to puncture the fuel tank!)
3) If you go to your local hardware store, you should be able to buy rubber grommets in various sizes: choose a size that will fit snugly around the size of battery cable you've chosen. This should be the type of grommet that can be inserted into a drilled hole in the battery box & be held in place by a groove that runs around the outside circumference of the grommet.
4) Drill two holes in the side of the battery box at the appropriate height/location to meet up with each of the battery posts, to accomodate your new (+)&(-) battery cables.
5) Next, pop the two rubber grommets into place in the holes.
6) With the aid of some spray silicone lubricant (preferable to WD-40, but if that's all ya got, go with it), on the new battery cables, pull your new battery cables through the now grommeted holes in the battery box. Next, cut cables to appropriate length.
7) Now, crimp/clamp new post terminals (verify correct size to match your posts, first!) onto the ends of your new cables inside the box.
8) Run a length of automotive standard vacuum hose from the inside of the battery box (through a hole drilled somewhere near the top side of the battery box [again, fitted with anothr rubber grommet]) down and through another hole, which you'll drill in the trunk floor (sealed around with clear silicone, top&bottom) and pointing toward the ground. (Be sure the bottom of the hose protruding through the trunk floor under the car is at least 3" long! (Battery gasses are corrosive & could damage the area around your "vent" if the hose is too short).
9) When you're all done, use some clear silicone adhesive to completely seal up the rubber grommets and leak-proof/protect the sheet metal wherever you did any drilling (both the inside & the underside of the trunk sheet-metal.
10) Make sure the battery doesn't have room to flop around inside the battery box: insert some closed-cell foam panels, cut to fit, or whatever material you choose between the battery sides and the battery box walls to keep it firmly in place. Alternatively, you could use a nylon battery "strap" (it's like a seatbelt) available at marine hardware stores and use fixed mounting points under the battery box or just to the sides to secure it firmly in place. (actually, safer than the box being mounted separately to the trunk floor, having the battery's full weight tossed against the mounting points on the plastic box's floor).
credit: KWheelzSB
and he didn't update on his new server yet...here's a basic idea:
1) Create a seal at the lid somehow (using trunk gasket, closed-cell foam tape, silicone, etc). Be creative: lotsa ways to do this, I'm sure.
2) Decide on a mounting location for the box & drill for straps or appropriate mounting hardware. (Careful not to puncture the fuel tank!)
3) If you go to your local hardware store, you should be able to buy rubber grommets in various sizes: choose a size that will fit snugly around the size of battery cable you've chosen. This should be the type of grommet that can be inserted into a drilled hole in the battery box & be held in place by a groove that runs around the outside circumference of the grommet.
4) Drill two holes in the side of the battery box at the appropriate height/location to meet up with each of the battery posts, to accomodate your new (+)&(-) battery cables.
5) Next, pop the two rubber grommets into place in the holes.
6) With the aid of some spray silicone lubricant (preferable to WD-40, but if that's all ya got, go with it), on the new battery cables, pull your new battery cables through the now grommeted holes in the battery box. Next, cut cables to appropriate length.
7) Now, crimp/clamp new post terminals (verify correct size to match your posts, first!) onto the ends of your new cables inside the box.
8) Run a length of automotive standard vacuum hose from the inside of the battery box (through a hole drilled somewhere near the top side of the battery box [again, fitted with anothr rubber grommet]) down and through another hole, which you'll drill in the trunk floor (sealed around with clear silicone, top&bottom) and pointing toward the ground. (Be sure the bottom of the hose protruding through the trunk floor under the car is at least 3" long! (Battery gasses are corrosive & could damage the area around your "vent" if the hose is too short).
9) When you're all done, use some clear silicone adhesive to completely seal up the rubber grommets and leak-proof/protect the sheet metal wherever you did any drilling (both the inside & the underside of the trunk sheet-metal.
10) Make sure the battery doesn't have room to flop around inside the battery box: insert some closed-cell foam panels, cut to fit, or whatever material you choose between the battery sides and the battery box walls to keep it firmly in place. Alternatively, you could use a nylon battery "strap" (it's like a seatbelt) available at marine hardware stores and use fixed mounting points under the battery box or just to the sides to secure it firmly in place. (actually, safer than the box being mounted separately to the trunk floor, having the battery's full weight tossed against the mounting points on the plastic box's floor).
credit: KWheelzSB
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