right rear wheel hot...ebrake?
right rear wheel hot...ebrake?
Hey, today I noticed that my right rear braked seized or something. First when I was on a hill, the car would roll back just a little and stop after hearing a sqeak. When I dropped my friend off he said he smelled something on his side. After getting home, I felt each wheel for heat. Front two had a normal amount of heat coming off and the rear left was a little warm. The rear right was extremely hot. I could barely keep my hand on the wheel for a few sec. Also I noticed that wheel had a little more brake dust than the other rear wheel. This seems to happen sometimes after releaseing the ebrake. I noticed the squeak when letting off the breaks and the smell before but I really thought nothing of it. Im thinking its either the ebrake cable or the caliper. How can I check to figure out whats the problem. Anything I can do about this? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
I'd get underneath with a pry-bar and see if you can pull the e-brake lever (at the caliper) towards the rear of the car... that will release the e-brake. If you can't, then the cable itself is probably stuck.
I had this same problem this past winter, except it was on the left side. It happened only when it was freezing out (or <27F at least), turns out the left-side e-brake cable was cracked open a little and let grime/water inside. I found out on motorvate.ca that this can be a common problem; the e-brake cable routes near the jacking point where mechanics lift the car when using a 2-post lift, and sometimes the e-brake cable can be squashed/cracked in the process.
I had this same problem this past winter, except it was on the left side. It happened only when it was freezing out (or <27F at least), turns out the left-side e-brake cable was cracked open a little and let grime/water inside. I found out on motorvate.ca that this can be a common problem; the e-brake cable routes near the jacking point where mechanics lift the car when using a 2-post lift, and sometimes the e-brake cable can be squashed/cracked in the process.
Originally Posted by spirilis
I'd get underneath with a pry-bar and see if you can pull the e-brake lever (at the caliper) towards the rear of the car... that will release the e-brake. If you can't, then the cable itself is probably stuck.
I had this same problem this past winter, except it was on the left side. It happened only when it was freezing out (or <27F at least), turns out the left-side e-brake cable was cracked open a little and let grime/water inside. I found out on motorvate.ca that this can be a common problem; the e-brake cable routes near the jacking point where mechanics lift the car when using a 2-post lift, and sometimes the e-brake cable can be squashed/cracked in the process.
I had this same problem this past winter, except it was on the left side. It happened only when it was freezing out (or <27F at least), turns out the left-side e-brake cable was cracked open a little and let grime/water inside. I found out on motorvate.ca that this can be a common problem; the e-brake cable routes near the jacking point where mechanics lift the car when using a 2-post lift, and sometimes the e-brake cable can be squashed/cracked in the process.
Originally Posted by twiggy144
I had exact same problem, but on the right side. Ebrake was stuck frozen under freezing point temperature. I replaced the ebrake cable and the caliper ( and rotors on both sides and new pads) . The caliper was also seized on that side. Later I discovered actuating the ebrake adjusts the caliper piston to pad wear. So if you dont use the ebrake regularly, it can create problems at the caliper .
Caliper kit is if you want to "rebuild" the caliper yourself. Don't bother with that unless you know what you're doing 
Just go ask different local auto stores on the caliper prices. Also check out http://www.rockauto.com and bleed your entire braking system while you're at it

Just go ask different local auto stores on the caliper prices. Also check out http://www.rockauto.com and bleed your entire braking system while you're at it
Originally Posted by JeEvE
Hey, how much did the caliper cost you? I took the car to the shop to check out the rear right break and they said the cable is fine but the piston in the caliper seized and I need to replace the caliper. He said he can get the caliper for around $90 and will put it on for $30. They also recommened that i change my rotors and pads, I already have Brembo pads and Axxis pads. They said its going to cost $190 to put on the pads and rotors but Im planning on doing that myself. I was looking on jerryromenissan and for the Rear, Right caliper (pn# 4400131U13RE) it is $284 and a caliper kit (pn# 4412061E26) is $36. The caliper seems like its too expensive...am I looking at the right thing. Also, what is the caliper kit?
Conicelli
I used to get them for 30% from a place in New Orleans but either they got busted or changed owners.
Off the top of my head the prices you were quoted are within reason, if they are factory parts except for the caliper. The cheapest I have ever seen a rear caliper is $78 at Autozone. Pads are about $37 online, and I think a rotor about $69 for factory.
Why $90 + 30 for the rear caliper installed isn't bad is if the part goes bad, the guy that charges you $30 will eat the labor, right? That means you don't have to fool around with rebuilding and possibly having to go back in once or twice. See if you order the rotor and pads online, how much the dude will charge you in labor, or if he'll do it for the $30 per side. Like I said, $90 is only $12 more than $78, which is the cheapest I've ever seen on a rear. The front?? That's really cheap, I think I've seen in the $30 range. Good luck.
The rear caliper cost me $125 CAD with the old caliper swap. Installed it myself. ALso changed both rear rotors and pads, myself. A month or 2 later, changed the ebrake cable on same side after discovering it was stuck in below freezing point temperatures, possibly eventually causing the caliper seizure as well.
if you can change rotors, then you can change the caliper as well. You will have to bleed the new caliper of course.
Reconnecting the ebrake cable to the new caliper was a bit tricky. I had not enough slack in the cable. Suggest you release some slack in the cable with the adjusting nut by the ebrake hand lever. All you need is a half inch slack. Attach ebrake to caliper. Retighten nut at hand lever.
Dont overtight that nut like I did: I galled the thread. I think maximum 10 lb ft torque on it. It is only a small M6 screw.
if you can change rotors, then you can change the caliper as well. You will have to bleed the new caliper of course.
Reconnecting the ebrake cable to the new caliper was a bit tricky. I had not enough slack in the cable. Suggest you release some slack in the cable with the adjusting nut by the ebrake hand lever. All you need is a half inch slack. Attach ebrake to caliper. Retighten nut at hand lever.
Dont overtight that nut like I did: I galled the thread. I think maximum 10 lb ft torque on it. It is only a small M6 screw.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Huttig2009
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
8
Sep 25, 2015 03:31 PM




