Well, I got that baby in but without the top mount bracket. Part of the outer casing wouldn't let me get the AC compressor back in place. I was determined to get this bish in so I just removed the top bracket and tightened the bottom mounting bolts really good to keep the altenator from swivelling.

Another issue was the crazy looking hook bolt that mounts the saddle part of the alternator to the engine block. I had to hammer the hook part almost flat to allow it to fit around the edge of the saddle.

I taped off and covered the original hot wire and wired my new wire from the hot lead on the battery to the alternator.

When I got everything installed, I started it up and wala! It runs like a charm. All of the myths of bad idling are gone with the smaller pulley. I drove the car around my lot and it runs fine. I also pumped my system nice and loud and the lights don't dim anymore.

One more thing, you can use the stock belt with this setup being that with this alternator, you'll need to install it higher than normal which compensates for the slack. I got no squealling when I started it but when I revved it, the belt slipped. I just kept tightening up on the idler until the slipping stopped.

I'll probaby try to get a top mount braket made of call Can-Am Motors to see it they have an adjustable one available.

Overall, I give this thing 2 thumbs up.

 

SO does the car feel any slower?

 

The car seems to run better and that's no lie. There is no slowness whatsoever. It idles smooth as silk and with no problems.

 

Cool, drive over the bumpiest road and see if the alternator gets loose.
You should take to AutoZone and see how many amps it is pushing out. It might be more than 200 or less.

 

I just took my family to a carnival and it drove fine. I'll check it during the week because most bumpy roads are in and around Boston.

 

there have been noted gains on adding high output alternators on cars... when the system isn't draining power and putting a load on the alternator, the engine actually has a little MORE power from the better regulated/smoother power delivery than the factory alternator.

I've seen some dyno charts on a VE that showed lots of small ripples in the torque curve.. when he went to a high output alternator, all the dips in the curve flattened out, and he gained an average of about 2-3hp over the entire rpm range.

 

This is from a article I read while doing my research:

 

CooL, If mine dies, I will get high amp one.

 

Deezo, did you consider doing the hyperground system when you upgraded the alternator? The only reason i ask is that now with a good battery and a high output alternator, the grounds would certainly be the weakest point in the cars electrical system. May also result in a extra horse or 2.

 

Long time no see...

I haven't thought about the hyperground system but I'll research it. Thanks.

 

That's good to hear that you got it installed...can you post pictures of the alternator installed? I plan on getting them too. I also recommend doing the Hyper Ground system or atleast upgrade the wires form the alternator to the battery and your ground wire on the battery to a bigger gaugeif you haven't done so.

And as far as the bracket not fitting, would it be possible to fabricate one or the dealer making you one.

 

hey deezo how much does a 200amper cost? I am sticking in a system and concerned about dimming (as i should be) and where is a good place to buy?

Thanks a lot
-Alex

 

Refer to this thread:

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/300213-new-tails-need-some-input.html

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=301715

Yo Deezo, check that thread out.

 

I'm curious to know if you knew the amps (not advertise amps, but actual amps) your old alternator was putting out before it went bad on you.

I agree you definately need to load test your new alternator to see it if comes close to its advertise 200 amp rating. Without putting a damper on the situation my guess is that it will not come close to it's advertise 200 amps. At what rpm is your 200 amp alternator rated at?

I've load tested many alternators. Granted, to the best of my knowledge all those alternators were OEM. Most of those alternators I've tested range from 50-65 amps at 1500 rpm. I'm not saying yours will produce in that range, I'm just saying 200 amps is a lot of power for a alternator to be putting out.

I think our biggest problem in having a high amp alternator is our clearance. We don't have the room to install one of those mac daddy Caddy alternators, but I'm not in the aftermarket alternator buisness so anything is possible

MIKE

 

Nice. Ill be watching from this point on

edit: Btw-Thank you for proving many (including myslef) wrong about this whole big alternator issue. Keep posted with any "occurences" if any that is. Now that we know the truth, I just might consider one.

 

Candiman: When my old alernator was rebuilt, it was tested at 125 amps. To my surprise I thought I had the 110 amp alternator.

The new alt is rated at 215 amps at around 2500rpm and 130 at idle. This alt also has 2 cooling fans (one of each side). I'm probably going to get an adjustable regulator for it to keep from blowing it out.

Hitman: You're welcome.

 

I tried finding your previous post to see if you mentioned about the size of your new alternator. Is the 200 amp alt much bigger, or pretty much the same size as the old alt? Having two cooling fans is a good sign that alt. means buisness.

Can you enlighten me why you would need an adjustable regulator, doesn't it have a internal self adjusting regulator? An adj reg will only adj the volts, correct? Adjustable regulators can be tricky, because what would you adjust for? No load at high rpm or with load at high rpm? Adjusting it at no load at high rpm you may not have enough volts for when you are cranking up the system. Adjusting it with load at high rpm you may have too much volts for the times you're cruising without the system pumping. Unless you run the adjusting **** inside the cabin where you can adjust it on the go, while observing a aftermarket battery/volt meter of course.

When you do get as chance to load test the 200 amp alternator see if you can observe how much volts it's producing while under a load. Volts and amps goes hand to hand, when one goes up the other goes down and visa versa. A alternator should never drop below battery voltage (12.6) while under a load, the higher it stays the better. Even though I'm assuming you knew this already I'm just saying it for that just in case.

MIKE

 

Check out the pics here....

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=300213

Can Am will sell me a regulator with the incabin adjustment for $170. All you do is unscrew 4 screws on the alternator and replace with the upgraded unit.

It seems that since their alternators run with a smaller pulley than normal, you would be running peak "power" much longer throughout the rpm range. I spoke with the guy I worked with to get this built and he was telling me how he had an S2000 guy put one of these into his car and you know those cars rev high as a bastard. He ended up cooking the alternator. The regulator will keep the amps at a certain voltage and current so that when you get up into the higher rpms, you keep the alternator from running at capacity for long periods of time. I inquired about the regulator because every now and then I go to the track. I was told I don't have to worry about cooking mine because our engine don't rev that high anyways. I'd like to get it to be safe.

I didn't know much about how this works so thanks for the input. Do I have to take it back off the car (which I don't want to do) or can I test this with my own voltmeter? I know the more info I give you guys, the better.

 

Unfortunetely no you can not test a alternator amp rating with your own volt meter. You will need load tester with an inductive pick-up clamp. Most battery centers (Sears, PepBoys, etc) have this machine. It's usually the same machine they use to load test a battery, but they need to have the inductive pick-up clamp around one of the battery cables (preferably the neg cable) in order to see the amp that being produced under a load.

That alternartor sure looks like it means buisness, nice



MIKE

 

Bump!

For those who were interested in the progress of the alternator, it's still running fine. No issues whatsoever.

 

holy crap that place is like 45 min from me, im definitely gonna hafta get one for my upcoming system. thanks for being the guinea pig deezo, is there anyone there who i should ask for who would know you and what they made for you? (97 and 00 alts are basically the same cept for a little different power right?)

Also, could you either post or pm a phone number or address or any info you have?

Thanks
kevin