Do I need a bearing press to remove the rotor? also, where can I find the stainless brake lines needed for the 300zx caliper and rotor upgrade? what tools are needed to do the upgrade oneself?

 

Once the caliper is off it should slide right off. Here read this http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300.

 

Rotor will just pop off once you take off the wheel, caliper and torque member. Its not held on by anything - other than rust... if it doesn't want to slide off, keep hitting it with a 2x4 or rubber mallet - it will come off eventually.

 

the right way to do it is to find 2 small treaded holes find 2 bolts that fit they should be at least 1 1/4" long and put them in tight them and the rotor comes off buy the haynes manual is explained there very well

 

If you are still planning to get some stainless steel brake lines there is a gd in the gd forum going on for SS brake lines.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....1&page=1&pp=30

 

my rotors were VERY tightly rusted on: I used two grade8 bolts in the threaded holes and an 8lb sledge before they came off. they didn't chip or anything (i was replacing them anyway) but there is always that chance so be careful.

 

Yah u should use a baby slede just to knock them loose.

 

if you use the bolts there should be no problem unless you use different bolt or overtight them

 

If you were lucky enough to aquire a southern car then its easy as pie. Also, I think it helps to have slightly warm rotors. Maybe this doesn't do anything but maybe it does, so, go for a 5 minute drive and let it cool for a couple and then get to work.

 

Small sledge hammer worked great for mine, you are going to replace them anyway, you don't need to be gentil with them. I tried pullers and the screw holes were too full of rust to accomodate a screw strong enough to hold. Lots and lots of rust held mine on. All it needed was one good solid wack and they broke loose.


my 2¢

-Joe

 

You might want to use a rubber mallet rather than a sledge just so you don't bend the rotor.
They come off very easily that way too.

 

A trick for strong hearts on front rotors:
put both wheel back on, put lug nuts back on, but screw only as many threads so the wheel can wobble. Gently lower the jack, until the front wheels touch ground. Turn steering wheel. The pressure from turning wheels on the rotors will eventually pry rotors out, and will crack free of the rust.

 

Would that be bad for the wheels, or lug stud threads?

 

Just get a big hammer and hit them from the back a few times.

 

I suppose so, depends how much "wobbling" free play you put on the wheels. A 1/4 inch wobbling is all is required.
I never had to try this myself. This trick is from an older post I read. I always used the threaded holes to screw bolts in, forcing the rotor off the hub.