removing rotor....
#1
removing rotor....
Do I need a bearing press to remove the rotor? also, where can I find the stainless brake lines needed for the 300zx caliper and rotor upgrade? what tools are needed to do the upgrade oneself?
#2
Once the caliper is off it should slide right off. Here read this http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300.
#3
Rotor will just pop off once you take off the wheel, caliper and torque member. Its not held on by anything - other than rust... if it doesn't want to slide off, keep hitting it with a 2x4 or rubber mallet - it will come off eventually.
#4
the right way to do it is to find 2 small treaded holes find 2 bolts that fit they should be at least 1 1/4" long and put them in tight them and the rotor comes off buy the haynes manual is explained there very well
#5
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If you are still planning to get some stainless steel brake lines there is a gd in the gd forum going on for SS brake lines.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....1&page=1&pp=30
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....1&page=1&pp=30
#6
my rotors were VERY tightly rusted on: I used two grade8 bolts in the threaded holes and an 8lb sledge before they came off. they didn't chip or anything (i was replacing them anyway) but there is always that chance so be careful.
#8
Originally Posted by 1991tsi
my rotors were VERY tightly rusted on: I used two grade8 bolts in the threaded holes and an 8lb sledge before they came off. they didn't chip or anything (i was replacing them anyway) but there is always that chance so be careful.
#9
If you were lucky enough to aquire a southern car then its easy as pie. Also, I think it helps to have slightly warm rotors. Maybe this doesn't do anything but maybe it does, so, go for a 5 minute drive and let it cool for a couple and then get to work.
#10
Small sledge hammer worked great for mine, you are going to replace them anyway, you don't need to be gentil with them. I tried pullers and the screw holes were too full of rust to accomodate a screw strong enough to hold. Lots and lots of rust held mine on. All it needed was one good solid wack and they broke loose.
my 2¢
-Joe
my 2¢
-Joe
#12
A trick for strong hearts on front rotors:
put both wheel back on, put lug nuts back on, but screw only as many threads so the wheel can wobble. Gently lower the jack, until the front wheels touch ground. Turn steering wheel. The pressure from turning wheels on the rotors will eventually pry rotors out, and will crack free of the rust.
put both wheel back on, put lug nuts back on, but screw only as many threads so the wheel can wobble. Gently lower the jack, until the front wheels touch ground. Turn steering wheel. The pressure from turning wheels on the rotors will eventually pry rotors out, and will crack free of the rust.
#15
Originally Posted by 1991tsi
Would that be bad for the wheels, or lug stud threads?
I never had to try this myself. This trick is from an older post I read. I always used the threaded holes to screw bolts in, forcing the rotor off the hub.
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