Just got a call from my local mechanic who's been diagnosing my 92 GXE for 2 days, telling me that he can't figure out the reason for my problem.

HELP!~!~!

Before I take my beloved maxima to the dealer, I figured it wouldn't hurt to do some research on my own and voila! Found this great website! What a relief! By reading some of the threads here, I'm confident that somebody can be kind enough to provide some insights to the cause of my car problem. I would would greatly appreciate your advise and comments.

About my car:
- 92 GXE
- 145K miles
- Automatic trans.
- Replaced water pump, gas filter, radiator, and timing belt a month ago


The problem:

- RPM hits 2500 and from there no engine power
- Maximum speed, 25 MPH
- Erratic RPM... pressing the gas peddle, hit 2500 RPM... RPM drops to 1000
- Knocking sound
- This occurs when engine is in full temperature
- For about 2 months, my shift from "P" to "D" would get stuck. Used the "red" shift release to get it in "D" from "P"

My mechanic has attempted the following:

- Tried changing the air flow sensor unit
- Tried changing the TPS??? I have no clue what this is but he tried replacing the old TPS with a used one
- He thinks the problem lies in the gas pump

Hope I provided sufficient info for your response and comments and I sincerely apologize for my lack of mechanic terminology.

Thanks for reading my post and I hope someone can help me out

AL from Los Angeles

 

Did your mechanic pull any codes from the ECU?
It sounds like it is still in safe mode.(happens when MAF fails)Read the FAQ's and Stickies regarding how to get ECU trouble codes from your Max. reset the ECU, drive it, then pull any codes it gives out. ( resetting it may also solve your problem by itself!) Good Luck.

 

Can't seem to find the faq relating to resetting the ECU... sigh*

 

Its in safe mode. Happened to my moms car. Step dad is a mechanic and couldnt figure out whats up. Took it to nissan and found a bad sensor. My advice is take it to a nissan dealer and have them put it on they're computer.

 

Thanks for your reply!!!

 

Thanks for your reply!!!

 

Turn the screw on the ecu all the way counter- clockwise, then turn all the way back clockwise.(Be careful! Don't brek the stop's!)Read the codes that blink out. Turn screw all the way back and then return it to the position you started. The light on the ECU should stay lit. This will clear the codes. If that doesn't work, diconnect your battery for a half to a full hour.

 

Thanks for the advise...

I took the car to the dealer service center today and yes... coughed up 4 bills to get the following parts replaced:

1. Distributor Cap
2. Distributor Rotor
3. Ignition Wire Set
4. Spark Plugs

I was told to replace the Distributor as well for another 600 but declined the fixer upper. Bastardssss!

Car still kinda hiccups but at least it goes faster than 35 mph now...
All I can say is... I need to be more edumacated in knowing how to take care of my own business... my car that is.

thanks for all the kind replies!

 

WHOA...$600 for a distrubutor? You can find them online for around $200, maybe less. (used though) Spark plugs and ignition wire set? ...do-it-yourself stuff. Don't let them try to coax those sort of prices on you. That's awful

 

OUCH!!! man the dealer isn't usning vasoline anymore at all I guess!

have someone check the injectors out as well...if not the MAF it definently seems related in some other way to the air/fuel system