i got a 98 with cai intake exhaust venom400 and pulley and i wanna get some new rotors and pads..im not sure which to get between number 1 drilled and sloted rotors with hawk pads or powerslot rotors with hawk pad, im trying to get owners info on how they feel and what not...

 

Is this for looks or what? In your current state getting anything more than regular rotors is unnecessary. If you want looks and still not have to deal with the cracking of the drilled get the slotted ones. Just so you know they will eat through your pads faster than regular rotors.

 

If you are into the looks aspect of the car. I would personally go with the cross-drilled. IMO cross-drilled and slotted rotors seem to crowded for me.

 

Well i got some cross drilled brembos with oem pads. I just did it for looks though.
http://members.cardomain.com/vincetti24

 

iv heard slotted and crossdrilled do have some drawbacks such as cracking...as for people who have come forward as said " I HAVE BOUGHT CROSS DRILLED ROTORS AND MINE CRACKED" that i never did see...they will make your car stop faster w/out a doubt so... make up your own mind :P ( i will be buying cross drilled & slotted brembos

 

get slotted and maybe dimpled, drilled ones do crack.

 

i have to admit i buy the cross drills because they look so good but they suck. no matter what brand i buy i split the holes. i just recently brought some brembo chamfer hole rotors and they split in 6 mths so far i went thru 1 pair a yr. for some reason some people just think they make the car look faster and that could help some of us.

 

They won't necessarily make your car stop faster. They will perhaps increase fade resistance with consecutive high speeds stops. Of course you'll never experience this on the street, so they are in fact for show.

Unless you get an actual Big Brake Kit.

 

Stopping power = friction.
Friction is the coefficient of drag of your pads to the rotor surface.

The more surface area you remove from the rotor, the LESS friction area you have. Less friction causes less stopping power. Cross drilling and slots means less rotor friction area which causes less stopping power.

The best brake setup is a solid vented rotor with a premium pad. For more performance under high heat conditions, slotted is the way to go. Slotted rotors help release the gasses that build up under the brake pad in extream conditions. The buildup of gasses released by brake pads under high heat conditions can actually cause the pad to float on the rotor surface which is felt as brake fade.

 

ive heard that the drilled slot rotors crack easily
-mario

 

I've got powerslot with hawk pads upfront. I like em. In my opinion, superior braking over OEM, and much more fade resistant. The hawk pads don't dust that much either.

 

if you like the look of the drilled just get the dimpled ones, they look drilled but dont crack.

 

They drilled rotors may take away some surface area, but they also cut away some of the glaze that happens on the pads. This way there is always fresh pad to hit the rotor. Its like rubbing an eraser agains a peice of paper VS a piece of Sandpaper. Which do you think will bite harder?

 

blanks and performance pads are they way to go.

 

I had a 95 240sx that I had done a lot of mods too (Hence the user name). One of which was the power stop cross drilled rotors. The stopping power increased drastically! I now have a 98 se Max that I have put KVR cross drilled rotors on and again, MASSIVE increase in stopping power. I have never cracked any of these rotors. I have had my current rotors for two years. I don't know wha tthese people are saying when they say there is no gain in stopping power. I speak from experience with two different cars on this subject. I hope this helps.

 

Please explain to me how buying cross-drilled rotors increases braking power without upgrading anything else...

 

i dont think rotors do anything to increase stopping power. its the pads that do that. the different style rotors just are used to dissapate the heat generated from the great amounts of friction.

 

Drilled rotors not only take away surface area but also MASS. It's the mass that enables the rotor to absorb heat and dissapate it away at a controlled rate. x-drilled rotors were originally designed to prevent a boundry layer of gasses that vented when old style ORGANIC faced pads were used. But since organic based pads are no longer used, x-drilled rotors are no longer necessary. ESPECIALLY on the street. With the introduction of superior pad materials like carbon and kevlar, outgassing is a thing of the past.

SLOTTED rotors do a better job of scraping the glazed that SOMETIMES form when very hard braking is performed. But again, modern materials make this fairly unnecessary.

You want looks, go with the rice drilled.

You want superior braking power, go with quality solid vented blanks and quality brake pads.

You want even more superior braking power, go with 13" cobra rotors and some 300z calipers. I got shat napa pads on these and it hauls down hard

 

I know they dont. Hence the

 

i know i know. just trying to make it clear to the other guy. but nothing beats blanks. extreme friction right there.

 

ooh that what i need. where did you get the set up and what yr 300zx calipers. i got the x-drills now and all they do is crack.what did they run you.

 

You also need a min of 17" wheels and the proper offset/design to clear these 4 piston calipers. More info here
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=308517

 

o.k i have 18x8 in rims now that would clear , but the only problem would be my drag radials which i have on 16 in rims. so that would be my only problem. thanks for the info.

 

First and foremost, maybe I wasn't specific enough. Second, I have modded quite about more than just rotors. The point being that the addition of cross-drilled rotors made a noticeable difference. As for how it works, I could guess for you. I am guessing that it has more bite on the pad, it dissipates heat quicker which allows for less fade, and also keeps the pads cleaner so they don't crystalize. I am strictly guessing, and am not a brake tech. I do however know that it has made a huge difference in both of my cars.

 

brembo slotted or power slotted? thanks for all the info but am going with slotted. now i just need to know how they feel.

 

bump.....................

 

Is there any calipers you can upgrade too running on stock 15" wheels? I need new brakes badly and I'm going to be jumping on the Brembo group deal soon. Thanks for the help.

 

I just had a new set of cross-drilled rotors and brembo brakes installed. While it's too soon to tell, I haven't had an issue with them. They stop the car fine. But do the cross-drilled rotors really crack? And if so, is there a way to prevent this from happening?

 

If you drive on them hard enough to justify their "benefits" they WILL crack. Race teams change their drilled rotors almost after every race. And there is nothing you can do to prevent it.

 

Bingo, i replace mine very often cause i race with them and they crack period. i could of had some big brakes by now had i been a little smarter.
but they will definitley be my next mod

 

Thanks guys. I don't race cause I don't have ***** (being a girl and all) so I shouldn't have a problem. I just do 360s every so often.

 

For those that say fade is not an issue on the street you need to take a rid with me. I experience moderate fade at least once a week and more so now that its so hot out.

So, Jeff you saying that even slotted are not worth it. I'm talking about hard braking here. Not pusxy grandma ****. You think quality blanks would be better than quality slotted. I love your setup and am amazed that you polished the calipers yourself but there is no way in hel! i'm getting big brakes. If I did it would be much more than the $1500+ price tag. I'd have to get a different/bigger set of winter rims and tires which would bring the total to $3K. I hear that any of the non-flat rotors make an annoying humming while slowing down. Is this true?

 

I believe slotted is just fine. No cracking issues I've heard of. Drilled is the no-no

 

im going with the slotted front and rear with the goodyear breaklines and hawk pads.....ill let you guys know how they went

 

I expierence fade as well, but I live in the mountain area so it is too be expected a little. My brakes are terrible though. When my right front gets hot, it sounds like a paper bag is wrapped around the axle. The fronts are warped I think, can't stop the car smoothly.

But when I'm going through the mountains my right front is just making all kinds of noise when I'm NOT on the brakes. For a while I thought it was bugs because it would always get louder as I would go by trees. But it is brakes. I'm going slotted possibly in the near future.

 

Don't get either.
Get better calipers(upgraded brakes) before you get these rotors.
Don't waste your money.
They will crack like everyone else is telling you.
Stick with the Blanks, unless you race auto cross.

 

I heard the humming noise on a friends Bimmer and I actually like the noise. One more sound that distinguishes a car as different.