Someone told me about this but im not sure i want to try it out.
You buy a can of this stuff before you give your car an oil change and put it inside your motor oil when your engine is cool. Then you start your car and idle it for 5 minutes. Once your done you shut off the engine and proceed to give your car an oil change. This supposibly gets all gunk and junk out and flushes all the dirt out.

Has anyone ever tried this, what do you think about it and is it worth it?

 

If it's Amsoil engine flush, then yes it's a great product. Other products have chemicals that can damage your seals.

 

I am always afraid to put additives in my engine. What exactly is this stuff?

 

i've never heard of this product... do you have a link to it or more details?

 

www.amsoil.com

I does an incredible job of cleaning up the sludge and grime. Basically you just change your oil filter, put the amsoil engine flush in, run it for as long as the can says (10-15minutes at 3000rpm I think), then change your oil and filter again. I personally buy a good paper oil filter that's inexpensive. The nissan oem filter is relatively inexpensive. After the flush I then install a good filter like the Mobil 1, K&N or Amsoil. iwannabmw and talkinghorse are very good to order products through and they give awesome discounts on amsoil products. Check the fluid and lubricant section of the board.

 

i thought the gunk in the engine, should be left in there if the engine has high miles?? or is that only for tranny?

 

What's this do exactly that, say, a fuel injector cleaning bottle won't?

 

um well....
fuel injector cleaner goes in your gas tank and cleans the whole fuel line including injectors.
and this goes in your engine to clean it.

 

ok, did a quick search, and from the other forums, it seems to be a good product, with 1 of the forums mentioning that it does a good job of conditioning seals, etc....

my question is WHY do we have to change oil filters. is it only to fit the can into the crankcase and not "overfill". my oil level is actually a little low, so i was considering using this, topping off the system, and then let it do it's thing, unless the oil filter has a true reason for being swapped.

this sounds like something that would be good to use once every 20-30k, especially for those high population cities (NYC, etc....)

 

That may be one reason. Another reason would be that the motor flush will loosen up a LOT of crap, and if your existing oil filter's almost clogged, it will allow all that junk to circulate around (since it will bypass the oil filter, going through the filter's built-in bypass valve) the crankcase and deposit, possibly causing more problems down the road... if you have a fresh oil filter, you can pretty much guarantee it's all gonna get stuck in the oil filter where it belongs.

 

......

 

why don't you guys go ahead and use it. i will wait to read the reviews

 

oil change due in ~500 miles. so it's def. gettin done. if not for improvement's, then reassurance. also, wonder if the "reconditioning" of the seals will improve the oil that i lose betw. every oil chance.

 

If you have changed your oil regularly you probably won't see a ton of sludge unless you have high mileage. If you have used synthetic oil you probably won't see much sludge.

 

Im not sure about the directions with aamsoil but the ones you can get in stores like r s strauss says to put it in your motor oil and idle your car for 5 minutes once 5 minutes pass turn off the car and proceed to do the oil change. I am sure Aamsoil has a great product but i dont know about the ones you can get in stores. The only harmful warning i read was not to drive the car when the flush is in to only leave your car in idle. Anyway im curious to know the after affects of doing this procedure.

 

www.motoroilbible.com had a good article about them and they said that they found the chemicals in all but Amsoil and Eagle I believe could dry out seals.

 

I believe one should only consider using this stuff if they have extended their regular oil change well in excess of what is considered normal, otherwise forgeddaboutit! You don't need to flush your engine if you are switching to synthetic either as some would have you believe.

 

maybe 'iwannabmw' and 'talkinghorse' can give some of their feedback on this Amsoil product?
it would be nice to find out the difference between this and Seafoam

 

Some of those products contain aggressive solvents that can harm seals. If you still want to do this, use less aggressive formulations, like Auto RX, Shaeffers' Neutra, LUBEGARD Engine Flush or even Seafoam. I have used Seafoam for this purpose before but not in my 02 Maxima. It has low miles and I've been using Mobil 1 so I don't see the need just yet.

 

Here is what is in the Amsoil Engine Flush

Aromatic Petroleum Distillate 43 percent
2 Butoxyethanol,Glycol Ether EB 10 percent
Kerosene 40 percent

It is similar to the other 2 dollar a quart flushes found at Autozone's ect and from my experience none of these low cost flushes are in the engines long enough to hurt an engine seal or do other damage .

One thing though is that the residual of these type flushes would make me want to do a short oil and filter change after the use . Say 1500 miles or so just to get the rest of the junk out .

A once per year use of the Lubegard Flush at 7.00 dollars is what I would do if I used a mineral based oil in the hot running Nissans . Every two years with a synthetic just because I can .

It's safe , effective and costs very little and BTW , absolutley no affiliation with Lubegard . Just a happy consumer of their engine flush .

Pretty neat technology behind it from a very large company .

 

I use the engine flush when I first receive a used car I have purchased. My reasoning is that I have no idea how previous owners treated it, and so I run the engine flush to clean the engine out. Afterwards, I just do regular oil changes. Since I change my oil regularly and consistently with synthetic, I don't really see the need for running another flush sometime down the road. With fuel system cleaners, it's a little different because gasoline is inherently dirty, so you can't really stop buildup in the fuel system. Also, combustion is an imperfect chemical process, so even a "well-running" engine is going to accumulate deposits that can be cleaned by a Seafoam treatment.

My $0.02.

 

I used this flush at the beginning of the summer and I can say it is worth it. What I did was added it in and let my car idle for 5-10 minutes, then I cut the car off and drained the oil. Believe me it is worth it, before you use it read the directions.

 

small world...i wanted to post my comments as well today.

i had mentioend this to my friend who just got a 93 240sx with 120k miles. i mentioned to him the motor flush. he followed the instructions (which says to put it in and run between 2500-3000rpm for 15-20 minutes). his commenst were that at around the 8-10 minute mark, the car started sounded quieter and was revving smoother. at the 18 minute mark, he dropped it down to 1500, at 19 he let it idle, and at 20 he stopped. drained it, and put new oil in. called me back within 10 minutes and said "i love you man...thsi car feels so new again...the engine is so much smoother. like EXTREMELY noticable....idle doesn't feel like it's coughing, and acceleration is out of this world. i just took off and redlined at 6500 with no problems and it got there REALLY fast."

so i'm sure this stuff works, but i would tend to believe that it does these world of differences on much older cars, or cars that were have high mileage. i plan on running this on my car every 30k, as part of my maintenance. if anything, not that i'll see a major improvement, but one of it's advantages is reconditioning seals, which is always good.