Hooking up and Aftermarket Alarm.
Hooking up and Aftermarket Alarm.
I neverhooked up an alarm b4.
Do I need to disable my stock alarm? If so how?
Where is it best to tap into for a 12vt constant and switched?
Do I need to disable my stock alarm? If so how?
Where is it best to tap into for a 12vt constant and switched?
Xcept for this part
"WireColor Codes for keyless entry, remote starter, etc" in the how-to section
you can simply unplug the stock alarm if you dont want to use it
there are tons of places to tap into +12V and ACC, I usually just do it right under the steering column at the ignition harness with the 5 large wires - also use a test light to double check every thing. The ignition wiring actually changes colors a couple places.
ignition wiring- If you look just under the steering column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = ignition power
wire 3 = second starter wire
wire 4 = accessory power
wire 5 = constant power
"WireColor Codes for keyless entry, remote starter, etc" in the how-to section
you can simply unplug the stock alarm if you dont want to use it
there are tons of places to tap into +12V and ACC, I usually just do it right under the steering column at the ignition harness with the 5 large wires - also use a test light to double check every thing. The ignition wiring actually changes colors a couple places.
ignition wiring- If you look just under the steering column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = ignition power
wire 3 = second starter wire
wire 4 = accessory power
wire 5 = constant power
Originally Posted by therealgoon9
I stand corrected. O_O
Now how can I just unplugg the OEM alarm?
Now how can I just unplugg the OEM alarm?
In a nutshell, it's simply providing a momentary negative (IIRC) signal to the alarm disarm wire. Craig should have that wire on his site - otherwise, I'm sure I can pull it up.
1. the aftermarket alarm should have instructions in it on how to interface with the factory alarm system. it's easy.
2. FAQ you!
http://mattblehm.com/faq/
scroll down to the bottom.
2. FAQ you!
http://mattblehm.com/faq/
scroll down to the bottom.
generally the newer alarms come with a factory arm/disarm feature, but I guess yours didnt
you can still work with the stock alarm (or unplug it) easily using a diode. Here's some info I typed up a couple years ago (but since search doesn't work, you cant find it on here)
For lock, just splice a wire into your lock output wire (or into the grey/red wire from the door lock timer since those should be connected somewhere anyway) and run this new wire to the arm wire of your stock alarm (light green/white).
For unlock, you need a diode. If you just connected the wires direcly like the lock, someone could break your window and hit the unlock button on the drivers switch panel and disarm the alarm. I know they would usually just pull up on the lock **** but it's better to do it safely here. As for the diode, I used a 1N4007 because it happened to be laying around and it works fine. They cost something like 10¢ each, here's a link on radioshack's site: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=900%2D2875 the pic doesn't show up so here's a pic of it http://www.flipperit.net/tkalliok/flipperi/diodi.gif
If you dont know what a diode is, it's kind of like a one-way valve. THe solid line on one end indicates direction that it allows to flow through.
---[ |]----- (line is on the rightside end)
+ current will flow from left to right but not rigth to left
- current will do the opposite (R to L but not L to R)
because we are working with the door locks which are a negative triggered system you need to put the diode in reverse of what would make sense normally
................___[| ]_______B
A---------/
...............\__________C
where A is the wire that unlock from the control unit (blue), then it should branch off to the maxima unlock wire somewhere B (light blue wire)
the new wire you add is C and goes to the stock disarm (light green/black)
so when A get a negative signal to unlock the doors, it will send the signal through the diode to B (it's - signal so it goes through the diode that way) and will also send the signal to C which disarms the car
if you just use the unlock button, only B gets a - signal and then the signal gets stopped from connecting to C because of the diode
if you dont want to go to the trouble, you could just hook it straight up to unlock and disarm and hope that the theif doesn't press the unlock button
you can still work with the stock alarm (or unplug it) easily using a diode. Here's some info I typed up a couple years ago (but since search doesn't work, you cant find it on here)
For lock, just splice a wire into your lock output wire (or into the grey/red wire from the door lock timer since those should be connected somewhere anyway) and run this new wire to the arm wire of your stock alarm (light green/white).
For unlock, you need a diode. If you just connected the wires direcly like the lock, someone could break your window and hit the unlock button on the drivers switch panel and disarm the alarm. I know they would usually just pull up on the lock **** but it's better to do it safely here. As for the diode, I used a 1N4007 because it happened to be laying around and it works fine. They cost something like 10¢ each, here's a link on radioshack's site: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=900%2D2875 the pic doesn't show up so here's a pic of it http://www.flipperit.net/tkalliok/flipperi/diodi.gif
If you dont know what a diode is, it's kind of like a one-way valve. THe solid line on one end indicates direction that it allows to flow through.
---[ |]----- (line is on the rightside end)
+ current will flow from left to right but not rigth to left
- current will do the opposite (R to L but not L to R)
because we are working with the door locks which are a negative triggered system you need to put the diode in reverse of what would make sense normally
................___[| ]_______B
A---------/
...............\__________C
where A is the wire that unlock from the control unit (blue), then it should branch off to the maxima unlock wire somewhere B (light blue wire)
the new wire you add is C and goes to the stock disarm (light green/black)
so when A get a negative signal to unlock the doors, it will send the signal through the diode to B (it's - signal so it goes through the diode that way) and will also send the signal to C which disarms the car
if you just use the unlock button, only B gets a - signal and then the signal gets stopped from connecting to C because of the diode
if you dont want to go to the trouble, you could just hook it straight up to unlock and disarm and hope that the theif doesn't press the unlock button
Originally Posted by «§»Craig B«§»
Xcept for this part
"WireColor Codes for keyless entry, remote starter, etc" in the how-to section
you can simply unplug the stock alarm if you dont want to use it
there are tons of places to tap into +12V and ACC, I usually just do it right under the steering column at the ignition harness with the 5 large wires - also use a test light to double check every thing. The ignition wiring actually changes colors a couple places.
ignition wiring- If you look just under the steering column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = ignition power
wire 3 = second starter wire
wire 4 = accessory power
wire 5 = constant power
"WireColor Codes for keyless entry, remote starter, etc" in the how-to section
you can simply unplug the stock alarm if you dont want to use it
there are tons of places to tap into +12V and ACC, I usually just do it right under the steering column at the ignition harness with the 5 large wires - also use a test light to double check every thing. The ignition wiring actually changes colors a couple places.
ignition wiring- If you look just under the steering column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = ignition power
wire 3 = second starter wire
wire 4 = accessory power
wire 5 = constant power
We got everything hooked up except for the alarm which dealt with a + tp - charge which would blow the circuit and so we couldn't finish that and also, after hooking the remote start up, when we hit the button it's acts like it's starting up only for a second, just enough for the lights in the dash to come on and the seatbelt to come up halfway and then the whole system shuts off and does nothing. What the heck???
1. What's up with the oppisite charges for the alarm (talk to Shawn please)?
2. The remote start coming on only for a second (once again, please talk to Shawn)?
Thanks for the help
sorry, I didn't see this until now
what system are you guys trying to hook up? On my Crimestopper RS900, the power will come on for a second and then immediately shut off if the hood open circuit is on. This is what prevents it from starting if the hood is open. I also used this input for the 5spd sensor so that it wont try to start if it's left in gear. Sounds like your problem could have something to do with that. Also, make sure the system isn't in valet mode.
As for converting polarity, that's really easy to do with a relay. SeñorGone should have been all over that on, but I guess not. Check out www.the12volt.com for some good info.
For the relay converting + to -
85: ground
86: + signal
30: ground
86: - output
for - to +
85: +12v constant
86: - signal
30: +12V
87: + output
what system are you guys trying to hook up? On my Crimestopper RS900, the power will come on for a second and then immediately shut off if the hood open circuit is on. This is what prevents it from starting if the hood is open. I also used this input for the 5spd sensor so that it wont try to start if it's left in gear. Sounds like your problem could have something to do with that. Also, make sure the system isn't in valet mode.
As for converting polarity, that's really easy to do with a relay. SeñorGone should have been all over that on, but I guess not. Check out www.the12volt.com for some good info.
For the relay converting + to -
85: ground
86: + signal
30: ground
86: - output
for - to +
85: +12v constant
86: - signal
30: +12V
87: + output
yeah, I could probably help you out. Do you have any more details on the unit - make/model? So that I can look up the install manual online and see what I'm in for.
Shouldn't be any problem, but it'll save time if I can find out some stuff beforehand.
Shouldn't be any problem, but it'll save time if I can find out some stuff beforehand.
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