Cant get Bolts off
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Cant get Bolts off
Stand off Hex Head bolts off the back of the blower to replace belt...I put it all together and forgot to put the two M6 bolts in the holes by the Pulley...I put Locktyte on those hex heads on the back and now they wont come off...are those Two top M6's that important ?? or leaving them off a bad idea ??
I almost stripped out the Hex head on one of them cause its soo tyte...I cant get them off
-matt
I almost stripped out the Hex head on one of them cause its soo tyte...I cant get them off
-matt
Originally Posted by matty
I wanna know if those two top bolts by the pulley into the timing chain are "important".,..alot of s/c setups I have seen, they are missing
-matt
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
i cant seem to get the blower back off of the plate...for the life of me...Im almost stripping out the hex head before the bolt even moves...
right currently I have the rear one in and was looking at it and figured out that one is going to be impossible to get in...I want to switch it to the front hole but may not be able to
-matt
right currently I have the rear one in and was looking at it and figured out that one is going to be impossible to get in...I want to switch it to the front hole but may not be able to
-matt
You might want to try having 2 people hold the blower while you pull like hell. Thats what I have to do, my allen wrenches wind up looking like twizzlers when I am done. Good thing I got craftsman! If those bolts came off easy that wouldnt be a good thing now would it. Now quit your Biatching and take them bolsts off
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Cant Get Em...I heated them up with a tourch and still nothing !!! I guess I put too much locktyte on them and Ill have to do with only one of those top bolts in (the top back one) and try and get that threaded without fu**ing the threads up
id like to take the back one off and move it to the front hole
-matt
id like to take the back one off and move it to the front hole
-matt
are you sure you have mm, cuz if u use sae it will just spin in there.
i got a set of xtra ones from stillen.
also, why did you use loc tite, i put anti sieze in mine for when the blower heats up
i got a set of xtra ones from stillen.
also, why did you use loc tite, i put anti sieze in mine for when the blower heats up
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Everyone told me use Lock Tight...even in the directions it stated that...
No there not spinning, there really tight, I had them out about a week ago...
-matt
No there not spinning, there really tight, I had them out about a week ago...
-matt
Originally Posted by matty
i cant seem to get the blower back off of the plate...for the life of me...Im almost stripping out the hex head before the bolt even moves...
right currently I have the rear one in and was looking at it and figured out that one is going to be impossible to get in...I want to switch it to the front hole but may not be able to
-matt
right currently I have the rear one in and was looking at it and figured out that one is going to be impossible to get in...I want to switch it to the front hole but may not be able to
-matt
I had the same situation...my bolts are ptretty stripped also...I kinda used a hammer.. I used an L shaped allen key and just basically whack the key so that u would hear a crack meaning u broke the locktyte..u just have snap the locktyte loose. and it takes a awhile with patience. good luck matty. thanx for reminding me, i have to buy buy some new bolts.
Originally Posted by matty
what size were your two allen wrenches... ??
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,451
From: Near Archer High School, Ga
You used the red ****? I feel your pain. I would not use loctite on those FHCS bolts that hold the blower to the plate
hell sss naaah. You think thats bad. They get about that tight without the loctite. I just snug them with my hand and thats a wrap. When is time to change a belt or what ever the case may be, they are pretty hard to remove.
Guys dont use loctite on those allen bolts. Use loctite on the 10mm bolts that hold the SCer plate to the engine timing case. Thats fine to do that. And dont torque the bolts down either. Timing case is made out of alloy and will strip easily
hell sss naaah. You think thats bad. They get about that tight without the loctite. I just snug them with my hand and thats a wrap. When is time to change a belt or what ever the case may be, they are pretty hard to remove. Guys dont use loctite on those allen bolts. Use loctite on the 10mm bolts that hold the SCer plate to the engine timing case. Thats fine to do that. And dont torque the bolts down either. Timing case is made out of alloy and will strip easily
Those allen head bolts are a real pain. I had a heck of a time removing mine the first time and actually stripped one on someone elses kit. Ended up drilling out the head and using a new bolt.
On my car, I think I actually used antisieze on those! I haven't had any problems YET. I would imagine it s/b safe to use some loctite by the head of the bolt only and not the threaded region at the end of the bolts... Those long bolts "twist" under torque and causing the problems removing them.
On my car, I think I actually used antisieze on those! I haven't had any problems YET. I would imagine it s/b safe to use some loctite by the head of the bolt only and not the threaded region at the end of the bolts... Those long bolts "twist" under torque and causing the problems removing them.
Originally Posted by matty
no way there coming off...just went down to my macanic..I used the Red Locktyte and way to much of it...we dont wanna risk breaking the bolts
-matt
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Well I used the red stuff...Im F*cked...they wont come loose and im afraid to go breaking them. They ill have to drill and tap the actual blower...im an idiot
Before you give up Matty check this out:
Easy Locktite Removal
We use a lot of Locktite at work: RC635 (Max. Strength Retaining), 290 (Adhesive/Sealant, Wicking), 242 (Threadlocker) and 7649 primer for 518 (Gasket Eliminator). Whenever we have to remove the stuff or break something free, we cringe! We've called Locktite and asked about solvents. They claim that none exist. Heat isn't always a good solution because you can warp or break castings.
Recently, just by luck, we spilled some methyl alcohol on a fitting which had Locktite on it. The alcohol softened and then dissolved the Locktite.
Try this before hauling out the blowtorch.
Sidney in NC
tech@fireflyballoons.net
http://www.guzzitech.com/LockTite-SC.html
Easy Locktite Removal
We use a lot of Locktite at work: RC635 (Max. Strength Retaining), 290 (Adhesive/Sealant, Wicking), 242 (Threadlocker) and 7649 primer for 518 (Gasket Eliminator). Whenever we have to remove the stuff or break something free, we cringe! We've called Locktite and asked about solvents. They claim that none exist. Heat isn't always a good solution because you can warp or break castings.
Recently, just by luck, we spilled some methyl alcohol on a fitting which had Locktite on it. The alcohol softened and then dissolved the Locktite.
Try this before hauling out the blowtorch.
Sidney in NC
tech@fireflyballoons.net
http://www.guzzitech.com/LockTite-SC.html
Here's the Locktite color chart for those newbies who haven't used it before. 242 Blue is the safest to use.
http://www.humvee.net/hid/misc/locktite.html
http://www.humvee.net/hid/misc/locktite.html
Originally Posted by matty
So regular rubbing alcohol or some other kind ??
Ill try and feed some in threw the cracks and let it sit over night...
-matt
Ill try and feed some in threw the cracks and let it sit over night...
-matt
http://members.tripod.com/blackhaven22/methyl.htm
Originally Posted by matty
Will it seap down onto the Locktyte past the bolt if I put a bit around the sides and wait over night ??
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Thanks for all the help...The only reason to take the blower off in the future is to go to a 2.87 pulley, or change the belt if it wears out...for now im fine with 1 of 2 of those top m6 bolts in, but thanks for the heads up..Ill keep it mind for later on 
-matt

-matt
Originally Posted by matty
Thanks for all the help...The only reason to take the blower off in the future is to go to a 2.87 pulley, or change the belt if it wears out...for now im fine with 1 of 2 of those top m6 bolts in, but thanks for the heads up..Ill keep it mind for later on 
-matt

-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
I just got back from vacation so ive been fadeing away from the blower situation..I have so much work to do to get this thing in...
Im going to leave the bolts since I already have a new belt on and ill worry about it when I need a belt...I will remember the recomendations, thanks
-matt
Im going to leave the bolts since I already have a new belt on and ill worry about it when I need a belt...I will remember the recomendations, thanks

-matt
Originally Posted by matty
Cant Get Em...I heated them up with a tourch and still nothing !!! I guess I put too much locktyte on them and Ill have to do with only one of those top bolts in (the top back one) and try and get that threaded without fu**ing the threads up
id like to take the back one off and move it to the front hole
-matt
id like to take the back one off and move it to the front hole
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
No the ones that are have too much locktyte on them are the stand off bolts on the back of the plate that hold the blower to the plate...There Allen Keys
-matt
-matt
Originally Posted by matty
No the ones that are have too much locktyte on them are the stand off bolts on the back of the plate that hold the blower to the plate...There Allen Keys
-matt
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
I understand now...well im most concerned that they dont break in the blower. Then I have a mess on my hands cuase will have to get the drilled out..>NOT FUN.....I took it down to my macanic and we tried but there is one that isnt budging, and we only tried the big ones, we havent even did the small ones yet..
Im going to leave it for down the road
-matt
Im going to leave it for down the road
-matt
Originally Posted by matty
I understand now...well im most concerned that they dont break in the blower. Then I have a mess on my hands cuase will have to get the drilled out..>NOT FUN.....I took it down to my macanic and we tried but there is one that isnt budging, and we only tried the big ones, we havent even did the small ones yet..
Im going to leave it for down the road
-matt
Im going to leave it for down the road
-matt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Originally Posted by C MAX
i doubt they would break those bolts are solid. stillen told me they use this technique all the time because they get a lot of jobs with stuck bolts.just weld on a nut and then you can air gun them off. they just dropped some weld on the inside corners of the nut.
Had to get the bolts off...all of except one so I needed to get a bolt welded on it and took it off with a 3/4in drive...DAM* i used too much locktight..take a look
the blower is off to vortech tomorrow
-matt
Originally Posted by matty
Well I had to take my blower off to get it rebuilt again cause Vortech messed it up on the rebuild...
Had to get the bolts off...all of except one so I needed to get a bolt welded on it and took it off with a 3/4in drive...DAM* i used too much locktight..take a look
the blower is off to vortech tomorrow
-matt
Had to get the bolts off...all of except one so I needed to get a bolt welded on it and took it off with a 3/4in drive...DAM* i used too much locktight..take a look
the blower is off to vortech tomorrow
-matt
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