I just had my MAF replaced on my 00 max 3 weeks ago. The guy at the shop who i know pretty well told me that it was due to my intake. From what I read on the forum, it seemed to make sense. Well, as of yesterday I believe I just blew my new MAF. The car is acting the same as it did before. I am contemplating putting a stock intake back on my car so i don't have to keep spending money to get this replaced. Any suggestions would be welcome.

 

which intake do you have?

 

Yeah, this is why Im afraid to get an intake. My close friend has an 02 Spec-V and hes replaced 2 MAF and he has an AEM CAI. I dont know if im willing to take the chance he paid over 500 for his MAF from the dealer. Can you get them cheaper any where else???

 

It's not the intake. It is your MAF. They are weak. I have blown MAF's with and w/o an intake. Put the stock intake back on and go get a new one.

 

stock maf...

 

No 5 on my ride.... knock on wood this one has been the strongest one yet. Too bad my variable intake manifold aint as good

 

what do you guys do to yours MAF's, I haven't replaced mine in three years and 79k miles.... What are the symptoms of failure????

 

I bought a new one just to have a spare. I then took off the old one to clean it after reading about others MAF horror stories, and installed the new one. It went bad after 3 months, so I reinstalled the old one and it ran fine.

 

OK the big deal with the MAFS are they made weak ones and they made stronger ones. I know this is true for the 2k2+... and if memory serves me right this was the case with the 2k and 2k1s

 

Just ordering my Berk Intake.... keeping my fingers crossed that I won't run into this MAF problem....

 

i have aweapon r and no codes on my ecu. guess my maf is workin well, 70k miles on a 2k

 

I think most MAF problems caused intakes are from the K&N filters being over oiled. My buddy has had his CAI forever and no problems and my MAF went once already with my panel K&N. WTF!

 

I agree... although I did have a panel K&N for 30k miles and didn't have a problem with the MAF... guess I'll just have to watch it when I re-oil the one on my intake...

 

If it's not the intake, why should he put the stock one back on?

 

to have it replaced under warranty.

 

How much do these MAF cost?

 

2k-2k1 mafs cost around 80-100 bucks. i got mine for around 82 shipped from jerry rome during one of their promotions. the 2k2 mafs cost more but a 2k-2k1 maf can be used, just be sure to hang onto the old maf to retreive a piece that needs to be relocated.

 

I wonder why my boy had to pay 600 for a MAF for an 02 Sentra Spec-V?? Where other than the dealer should you buy these?

 

there are not any aftermarket producers as of yet. i searched on autozones site one day and they listed a company but no part number or price. there was a thread a while back about a company possibly stepping up but i dont think anything ever happened. if you dont want to deal with the dealer, you could get a used one from a junkyard but they probably want just as much for a new one.

 

I couldn't have said it better myself. If you have already made it known to your service advisor, you can try another dealers service department. However, chances are it has been noted in your cars history in thier comp. If you didn't get the extended warranty and you car is past the factory warranty, keep reading.....

As far as spare and/or replacement MAF's, call around to local junkyards. You can find them from $60-$80.

 

Hot wire contamination is the primary reason MAFs are failing, however I still argue that the lack of vibration isolation of most aftermarket intakes takes out a considerable number.

OEMs clearly take engine and chasis vibration seriously on MAFs and when you solidly mount your MAF you are risking premature failure.

If you're having repeated MAF failures in a short period, I'd suspect contamination or maybe an electrical(ECU) problem. However, if they are failing once in awhile, I'd try using some rubber feet and couplers to isolate engine/chasis vibration as much as possible.

 

So what is safer, to have the MAF on a non-bracketed intake or solidly mounted onto the stock airbox?

BTW my first MAF blew and I've done the same things with my updated one with no problem at all...yet.

 

Copy the OEM....

Flex/accordian piece to isolate engine vibration and rubber feet on the airbox to isolate chassis vibration.

Free-hanging while bolted to the engine is not a good idea.

 

How about if you use the bracket provided?

 

Avoid metal to MAF contact...use rubber washers, feet, hose, whatever to try and keep the vibrations to a minimum.

I believe with the berk you can still use the accordian flex coupler and then just use a thick rubber washer for the strut tower bolt.

 

I have the PR CAI. I used the stock rubber piece instead of the stiff rubber tubing provided. Haven't blown one since. I recommend this method to reduce vibration from the engine to the MAF as well as allowing the engine to move independent of the intake while under load. Your engine rocks under accel and deceleration. This is just one way I have eliminated excess vibration. I agree that this is a contributor to the MAF issue.

 

I'm gonna try this... just got a Berk....

 

i blew 2 when i had my specv and one on the max all were covered under warranty because i switched to the stock airbox before bringing the car in. but as of now i don't have an intake in the max thinking of putting it back in though

 

symptoms for a blown MAF?

 

But that eliminates the midpipe!

 

See if Im gonna have to go through that hassle just for an extra 10whp I dont think its even worth it.

 

ditto -- what are the symptoms? I just bought my first max.

 

Im looking at ordering the Injen cold air intake next week, is that one of the intakes that messes with the MAF or is it something that will just happen regardless?

 

It seems to me almost everyone who has an intake has blown a MAF. Chances are YOU WILL BLOW A MAF if you can an intake!