i know this is not the best place to ask audio questions on but i figured id give it a shot. ok so installed new 6 X 9's in the back of my car. they sound really nice however if i change songs or as a cd is loading up it makes a gurgly noise of some sort. also if i change settings on my head unit such as going from super-bass to powerfull or to vocal ect..... my sub woofer makes a pop noise. so i was wonderign if i just have my negitve and positves mixed up or if there is something else going on?

 

sounds like a bad ground somewhere. i would double check everything to make sure connections are tight.

 

ok, as an audiophile, I'm gonna suggest what you should do to get the best sound possible in your car. First, get rid of your subwoofer. All a subwoofer does is add unnecessary bass that drowns out the clarity and vocals of your music. Secondly, get rid of your rear speakers. Yes, that's right. To get the most clear music, you want all of the sound in front of you, not surrounding you. Think about it, when you're at a concert, the band is playing in front of you on stage right? You are not surrounded by the band when at a concert. Therefore, what you're gonna need is a set of component speakers for the front, because those consist of separate drivers (a midrange and a tweeter), which provides the best clarity and detail. To power the two front components, get yourself a good, powerful 2-channel amp. Finally, on your head unit, don't use any equalizer settings or bass enhancements or any of that junk. Have your equalizer off and everything else off. You want to be able to appreciate the music for what it's worth, the way it was recorded. Some of you might think what I'm saying is wierd, but you cannot argue it, because people who know about sound agree with me.

 

the only thing I argue with you on that is that you do need a sub.
When I'm running around town, I cross them over at about 80hz and turn 'em up a bit. helps drown out road noise.

when I'm sitting and listening to real music at competitions, I run the fronts full range and cross the sub at 40hz and down. even my high $$ Focals can't reproduce the low bass that's needed for TRUE quality audio.

And a good parametric EQ will help any car a lot. you *could* even it out with judicious use of passive crossovers, a ridicously complex install, and live with the aftermath, or you could just drop some components in the doors, a single 10 or 12 in the trunk, proper crossover settings, and let the parametric EQ fix the humps in response. much better. most of the high end Pioneer and Premier head units have done this stuff for years.

 

as for the problem at hand.. sounds like the muting circuit is funky on the head unit, usually due to a ground voltage differential between the front (head unit) and rear of the car (amps).

Newer Pioneer head units have a zero-bit muting circuit that grounds the outputs when the CD is not playing or has zero information on it between tracks.. mine used to give a noticeable pop at those times, but I re-grounded the RCA cables at the amplifier end of things using a small resistor to the amp's chassis ground back there. got rid of 95% of the popping noises in my system.

 

so what do you guys sugest i do? the head unit i bought is brand new it was only 100 bucks though(the cheepest pioneer i could find) also is it hurting my system to have it pop like that untill i can fix it? cause ive got speeding tickets ect.... to pay now before i could buy a new head unit......

 

nah.. it's not hurting anything, unless the thump is really loud. soft pops are somewhat normal in car audio, but very annoying.

also try grounding the head unit and your amps to the chassis better. that often fixes the problem, but not always when you're dealing with Pioneer stuff.

 

while i can agree i like loud CLEAR music....i have to adjust the eq, loudness, or else it sounds like crap plus i can pass on the subs cause i dont want the extra weight in the trunk.......

 

Just build it so it's removeable. I have 2500W from 5 amps in the trunk and I can remove the whole shebang in less than 30 seconds.

 

Interesting, and where do you live again Matt?

 

I never said HOW to get it out, or how to get past my $1200 alarm.

 

Another thing to remeber is that the positioning of the front speakers in this car sucks anus. They point right at your feet, which is why you should get components. Also the sound concealment in this car is horrible.You can loose alot of sound through the doors and road noise. So i would recomend dynomat or fatmat or something similar.

I cant say that it sounds better with just front speaks on. I know it's more of how the music was meant to be heard but i just don't think it sounds good. also unless you have some awesome speakers with an amp you are probably gonna want to use the EQ. And at least a 10" sub is necessary.

 

yea the doors are really thin ect..... my brother does interior work in private jets and they bought a sound proofing kit for 32,000 dollars and only used like 15k of it so he broguth a **** load of it home and sound proofed his intire mustang and im just now getting some and started out with my trunk

 

i agree that you need a sub i got 2 tens with an 800 watt amp all hooked up to the original bose head unit and bose speakers which are going to get ripped out here in a few weeks and get replaced by a JVC head unit and JBL speakers. those only add 50 pounds tops. so i am not worried about weight. and i keep the fade towards the front that keeps the rears from adding to much bass to the subs so the music doesnt get distorted

 

If you really want it to sound good, amp your speakers as well as your subs.

 

just front speakers huh, hmmm sounds a lil off. Whatever floats your boat though.

 

most audiphiles only run front speakers. if they do run rears, they run them at about 10% of the power of the fronts, they run them in mono, and they cut off everythign above about 5000hz.

listen to the stereo in my car and you'll know why.

 

I agree, one day I got fed up with too much bass in my car. Even though I got a sub the rear was over powering my system with extra bass. So I decided to take power away from the rear and just power the sub and components in front.

I have clarity and enough bass to complement the fronts, if you can try it and see.