Most important gauges for dry shot?
Most important gauges for dry shot?
Ok, I know this has probably been gone over many times in the past, and yes, I have read the FAQs, but I'm trying to decide what to do with my current gauges. I bought my dry kit used and it came with the bottle pressure gauge and an A/F gauge. Talking to Jason, he brought up the point that if you see the A/F ratio is lean, you're already screwed, so there's no real need for the A/F. He recommended getting an oil or fuel pressure gauge to replace the A/F. I thought that at least if you knew you were running lean, you at least won't continue to spray and mess things up more.
From doing some more research I heard an EGT reacts faster/more accurately than an A/F gauge does. Is this true? It seems the general concensus is that the two most important gauges to get are EGT and FP gauges.
Just to clarify, I will be using the JWT nitrous program setup for a 65 shot.
Opinions are welcome. Now that I think about it I should probably go to howstuffworks.com for a more technical explanation.
Thanks guys.
From doing some more research I heard an EGT reacts faster/more accurately than an A/F gauge does. Is this true? It seems the general concensus is that the two most important gauges to get are EGT and FP gauges.
Just to clarify, I will be using the JWT nitrous program setup for a 65 shot.
Opinions are welcome. Now that I think about it I should probably go to howstuffworks.com for a more technical explanation.
Thanks guys.
From what I know the EGT is supposed to be more accurate/helpful than an A/F gauge.
The three gauges I'm going to be getting when I eventually save up to get nitrous are:
1. Nitrous Pressure Gauge (In-Cabin)
2. Fuel Pressure Gauge
3. EGT Gauge
The three gauges I'm going to be getting when I eventually save up to get nitrous are:
1. Nitrous Pressure Gauge (In-Cabin)
2. Fuel Pressure Gauge
3. EGT Gauge
Originally Posted by RichP23
From what I know the EGT is supposed to be more accurate/helpful than an A/F gauge.
The three gauges I'm going to be getting when I eventually save up to get nitrous are:
1. Nitrous Pressure Gauge (In-Cabin)
2. Fuel Pressure Gauge
3. EGT Gauge
The three gauges I'm going to be getting when I eventually save up to get nitrous are:
1. Nitrous Pressure Gauge (In-Cabin)
2. Fuel Pressure Gauge
3. EGT Gauge
For the EGT gauge, what are some good brands that come with the extra O2 sensor? I assume Autometer would make both of the gauges I need, but I would like to know if another brand makes more reliable products. Anybody got experience with other gauge brands?
The reason that you don't put fuel pressure guages in the cabin is that means there is a fuel line with gas in it in the compartment. The only time that isn't true is with an electric guage, and they are the ones that are not very accurate. The reason the FP guage is better under the hood, is that when you are tuning the car, you know what the fuel pressure is from there. Ususally you are tuning the AFPR while your head is under the hood, better to see it there, than have to rely on someone in the car yelling out numbers. Did you get a WAlbro 255 pump yet? You won't have to worry about low pressure ever again with one of these babies.
Talked to Ben at JWT today. Apparently my ECU will be sent out early next week after 3 months of waiting. I asked him about the most important gauges to get and he said an EGT gauge can tell you a little, but not enough to tell you how lean/rich you're running. He said instead to get an AF gauge from Innovate Motorsports with a wide-band O2 sensor. Apparently it costs about $350, and that's a good amount of money. Does anyone have experience with that sort of gauge?
Just for info, any gauge is not going to save you if suddenly go lean, like loosing your fuel pressure.
It happens so fast that you couldn't shut down fast enough, even the FPSS won't do it imho.
So all the gauges in the world will just help in tuning and giving you a bit of piece of mind.
A wideband is the best tuning tool you can buy, I have used one for all of this season. I have just recently bought the FJO unit that integrates with my Maximizer, this setup will shut your system down at a preset a/f ratio (mine is presently set at 12.5) and has already saved me once. Its the only system I know of that will shut the system down fast enought to save your engine. The only problem is the cost. Maximizer is approx $550 and the wideband $350. No other wideband will integrate with the Maximizer, I already have a TechEdge unit which I am going to sell because of that.
It happens so fast that you couldn't shut down fast enough, even the FPSS won't do it imho.
So all the gauges in the world will just help in tuning and giving you a bit of piece of mind.
A wideband is the best tuning tool you can buy, I have used one for all of this season. I have just recently bought the FJO unit that integrates with my Maximizer, this setup will shut your system down at a preset a/f ratio (mine is presently set at 12.5) and has already saved me once. Its the only system I know of that will shut the system down fast enought to save your engine. The only problem is the cost. Maximizer is approx $550 and the wideband $350. No other wideband will integrate with the Maximizer, I already have a TechEdge unit which I am going to sell because of that.
Originally Posted by Jime
Just for info, any gauge is not going to save you if suddenly go lean, like loosing your fuel pressure.
It happens so fast that you couldn't shut down fast enough, even the FPSS won't do it imho.
So all the gauges in the world will just help in tuning and giving you a bit of piece of mind.
A wideband is the best tuning tool you can buy, I have used one for all of this season. I have just recently bought the FJO unit that integrates with my Maximizer, this setup will shut your system down at a preset a/f ratio (mine is presently set at 12.5) and has already saved me once. Its the only system I know of that will shut the system down fast enought to save your engine. The only problem is the cost. Maximizer is approx $550 and the wideband $350. No other wideband will integrate with the Maximizer, I already have a TechEdge unit which I am going to sell because of that.
It happens so fast that you couldn't shut down fast enough, even the FPSS won't do it imho.
So all the gauges in the world will just help in tuning and giving you a bit of piece of mind.
A wideband is the best tuning tool you can buy, I have used one for all of this season. I have just recently bought the FJO unit that integrates with my Maximizer, this setup will shut your system down at a preset a/f ratio (mine is presently set at 12.5) and has already saved me once. Its the only system I know of that will shut the system down fast enought to save your engine. The only problem is the cost. Maximizer is approx $550 and the wideband $350. No other wideband will integrate with the Maximizer, I already have a TechEdge unit which I am going to sell because of that.
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Do I need the Maximizer to use the FJO? Since I'll be running a dry shot from NOS brand, the Maximizer won't work for me, correct?
Bro you won't need anything until you get up into the 100+ shots. With the Walbro, the 370cc injectors, and the ecu saftey margins there is no way to run lean. And i mean NO WAY. When i was running the 100--120 shot the car was dead pegged rich.
Those guys sure are taking their sweet azz time on the ECU aren't they?
Those guys sure are taking their sweet azz time on the ECU aren't they?
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