6x9 Speakers in rear.
Time to bust out the die cutter and air compressor *tim allen growl*. Naw j/k, dremel will do just fine, it's just not as fun, hehehe. I'm hoping to do the same sometime around January/February. I need tog et rid of my stock rattlers. Good luck. BTW, when you buy a pair of speakers, 95% of the time they come with a template for you to make the necesary triming to fit them flush. I know you have to cut the rear deck (obviously), I believe u also have to widen the opening on the frame underneath, since the magnet and the wires' hookups might not clear the opening.
I have Infinity 6X9s and they sound better than stock, I bet the $250 infinity component speakers sound a little better but when I did my install I already had these 6X9s and I wanted more bass without adding subs right away. (before subs)
I would get some of the best 6x9's they make. id take out my headunit in my car now, retails for 600 brand new. But i have a good amp to push the 6x9's, its a 75rms per channel. MY current setup in the car i have now, is 2 rockford fosgate 12" HX2, 1000rms amp, pounds harder than ****, and only turned 1/2 way up. But i dont want all the weight anymore and good 6x9's taht are powered by amp will sound pretty damn good.
ok, so where would the write up on doing the 6x9 from a 6.5 opening.
I bought at ebay a set of bose 6x9s and only realized after I bought them.
can a car shop do it for you? (I mean I leave the speaker area clean down to the metal part, and ask them.... "cut the s**t out for me! please."
I bought at ebay a set of bose 6x9s and only realized after I bought them.
can a car shop do it for you? (I mean I leave the speaker area clean down to the metal part, and ask them.... "cut the s**t out for me! please."
all you have to do is cut a hole big enough. use the stencil that comes in the box with the 6x9. im thinking a dremel with a good bit, goggles, and a drill is all you need. use the stencil to draw a hold, cut it anyway you can, protect your eyes with the goggles. drill the new screw holes. try not to cut any wires along the way. good to go.
i agree with just using good component 6.5 you can get infinity kappa component system for about 130 on ebay, or even the reference series for like 90.
i agree with just using good component 6.5 you can get infinity kappa component system for about 130 on ebay, or even the reference series for like 90.
I did my rear deck 6x9's about 2 months ago with a dremmel. Took me 5 hours...
Gotta remove the bottom/back of the rear seats, remove the rear decklid without breaking the cheapass cardboard in half. Remove the 6.5's, use the template that comes with the speakers (the inner edge of course!)
What I did was used a ruler/tape measure before hand and got it all marked up with chalk with straight lines going across the deck lengthwise, then front/back straight through where I wanted them. I folted the template in half both directions to find the exact middle point and marked them, and lined up those points with my chalk lines. This ensured a square fit (if you skew them, the holes wont lineup with the holes you will have after cutting out the grills.
Cutting them out with a dremmel was a PAIN IN THE ***! Cutting a fairly sharp circle while performing contortionist like positions frequently resulted in me breaking metal cutting discs; i think I broke 3 and wore down 3 more to nothing.
NOTE: BE SURE TO COVER UP YOUR REAR WINDOW!
There is a sound deadening/padding ontop of the sheetmetal on the rear decklid, when the hot bits touch it it pretty much flings it everywhere and kinda melts it onto anything it touches. I'm just glad i was able to get it off my rear window without harming my defroster lines.
After cutting, you gotta drill the holes. Easy enough. So, most of the grunt work is done at this point, or so you think. I had a hell of a time being very careful while cutting up my rear deck fabric/cardboard piece to get it to sit in the right spot. Then it was 10x harder to get the screws through it and through the speaker into the hole in the deck. (My setup requires the screw to come down from ontop of the grill rim.)
Major PITA! But it was worth the effort imo. Sorry no pics right now.
Gotta remove the bottom/back of the rear seats, remove the rear decklid without breaking the cheapass cardboard in half. Remove the 6.5's, use the template that comes with the speakers (the inner edge of course!)
What I did was used a ruler/tape measure before hand and got it all marked up with chalk with straight lines going across the deck lengthwise, then front/back straight through where I wanted them. I folted the template in half both directions to find the exact middle point and marked them, and lined up those points with my chalk lines. This ensured a square fit (if you skew them, the holes wont lineup with the holes you will have after cutting out the grills.
Cutting them out with a dremmel was a PAIN IN THE ***! Cutting a fairly sharp circle while performing contortionist like positions frequently resulted in me breaking metal cutting discs; i think I broke 3 and wore down 3 more to nothing.
NOTE: BE SURE TO COVER UP YOUR REAR WINDOW!
There is a sound deadening/padding ontop of the sheetmetal on the rear decklid, when the hot bits touch it it pretty much flings it everywhere and kinda melts it onto anything it touches. I'm just glad i was able to get it off my rear window without harming my defroster lines.
After cutting, you gotta drill the holes. Easy enough. So, most of the grunt work is done at this point, or so you think. I had a hell of a time being very careful while cutting up my rear deck fabric/cardboard piece to get it to sit in the right spot. Then it was 10x harder to get the screws through it and through the speaker into the hole in the deck. (My setup requires the screw to come down from ontop of the grill rim.)
Major PITA! But it was worth the effort imo. Sorry no pics right now.
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hez8813
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it may sound like bass to you but its mid-bass..




