I have a coolant leak in the throttle body and Nissan wants 400 for a new one and I can't afford a used one either. Can I reroute the coolant lines to skip the throttle body? Nissan dealer said the coolant needed to be in there to keep the throttle body from sticking in cold weather...but I live in TN and it doesn't get that cold here.

I have a 95 manual transmission.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

 

Is the throttle body cracked? I dont understand. If there is a crack or a little fissure, you can get it welded.

Shouldnt cost more than 20 bucks for a quick weld. you can even go to the muffler shop or try JB weld.

 

Mine has a small leak, havent looked at it closely but it loks like it's coming from the the hose inlet, unless it's pouring/squirting out, it should be fine until you have enough money to fix. And it is possible to re-route the lines but I;ve never done it so I can't help you there.

 

I have a used TB I will sell you for $40 shipped

 

Don't ya just love the org? 1/10 the price of OEM...you're the man mike. Way to help a guy out.

 

Thanks for the offer Mike..

The leak is around the bottom of the throttle body, but above where the hoses go into the throttle body. The car has 215K miles on it. The leak can't be repaired...you just have to replace the throttle body of which I don't really want to do. I'm thinking I can cap off the coolant hoses that go to the throttle body. I can do this as long as the hoses are not providing coolant to anything else. I don't have any way of seeing where else the lines go (no manual to trace the lines).

 

You can just bypass the TB. Remove both hoses and connect them together with a brass barb. They should be just long enough to reach each other. I had mine bypassed when I had my PF TB installed.

 

Dude lame, just spend the 40 bucks and do it right. It's only 4 bolts.

 

Thanks. That's what I need to know.

 

Agreed. It's good to get in there and clean the TB once in a while anyway.
Wasn't there something else about rerouting the lines that was bad? Not the freezing but a sensor or something?

 

Did not cause any sensor problems for me. I don't know about the freezing because I did not have it bypassed during a chicago winter

 

Think he's talking about high idle.. I did mine because when I took off my manifold I couldn't get one of the lines to fit anymore.. pos so I just took them out and put them together...

My idle seems to be fine tho :\

 

Do I connect the one line that is under the TB to the line that comes in from the right side if you are looking directly at the TB inlet?

 

I'm going to be connecting them shortly. Its so anoying to have all that dirty **** under there that isn't doing anything but heating up the incoming air. Connecting them should be no problem. Just make sure you do it securely. I would recomend just capping them because theyprobably continue on to other important areas. I don't have the FSM on this comp. so I can't look.

 

there should be two obvious coolant lines. An in and an out. The are both kinda on the side of the TB and the same size. You probably also have a smaller hose directly on the bottom of the TB, that is a vacumm hose. Don't touch that one.

 

The coolant that runs through the TB controls the fast idle cam (thing that makes rpm's higher when cold)... If you re route the coolant line, the fast idle cam will not work properly.

 

I had heard that was supposed to be true....but when I had mine bypassed I still got a 2k or so idle at start up like I normally did.

 

thats because it was cold. once it warms up then the idle will come down.

I did this years ago and notice no difference.

Our IM is metal and heat soaks quick so the TB will warm up eventually, so go ahead and bypass them.

 

You don't understand. It had been said that bypassing the TB would result in the fast idle cam not working, but it still did for me.

 

The coolant going through the TB is useless ive gone two years with no coolant in the TB and it stills idles high in cold weather. Bypass the coolant lines with a brass barb like mike says .

Another problem on the org is people guessing aboput things instead of doing them and finding out.
For instance you should see the things ive ripped off my car and thrown away with no change. I think some things are just for back up.

 

um i do, you said there was no difference and i said there was none

 

Its just a cavern it goes no where else


1000 post

 

I have bypassed it. I had to buy some additional tubing and a barb to combine the tubes to totally bypass the TB. Thanks for all the help.

I've currently been having loads of fun working on a leaking hydralic hose for the clutch. I couldn't separate the hose from the metal line...I had to buy both of them. I feel for anyone that has to try to disassemble the metal hydralic lines. If you are using a regular wrench...you will strip the edges quickly.

 

Krismax, thanks for the input. Knowing that I will probably just cap them at the source. There is no sense in having extra lines running everywhere that clutter up the engine bay and add weight. What are the other things that you speak of that are useless. I'm very in to weight saving. This week. I removed my windsheild sprayer lines, tank and pump. I'm leaving the nozzles in cause I don't want holes in the hood. What other mysterious extra things have you removed?

Dougy, you should have looked in the GD forum. There is a deal for $25. It is for a Stainles Braided clutch line that replaces all the soft sections in the stock unit. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=338081