is there anyone within a reasonable distance of chattanooga willing to do a manifold stud job. There is only one broke off and that ticking is getting on my nerves. Its bad enough I have a bad y pipe, but it'll be fixed by thanksgiving hopefully. My car looks so good, but sounds so bad. Every exhaust shop around here wants $500 and up. I know that there is a home mechanic around that knows how to do the job for a price. I'll even go to atlanta if you are down there. Please Help.

 

Is it one of the front ones right?

 

For $500 you had better believe it's one of the rears.

 

so far its only one behind the compressor, I don't hear any of gthe gay ticking anywhere else. you can see the manifold not meeting the surface where the stud is broke

 

I'll do it for $300. I live about a hour and a half from you. pm me

 

there is a write up on 4dsc.com spend an afternoon and do it yourself the front ones are easy (not easy but a lot easier then the rears) if you run into problems there are plenty of people on here that have done it including me

 

is there a specific sound i should look for becuase shortly after i changed my muffler and y-pipe, i hear this ticking sound in the front below my engine but it doesnt happen wen my car is in park or neutral (around 800rpm) but wen i put it into drive or reverse the sound comes up.after i drive the car around for a while, it disappears again. o yea sry to steal your thread joe4

 

im about to do this, can someone shoot me the part number for the turbo bolts to use.

thanks.

 

after doing a little a little research, it does seem like I could do the front myself. the back, aint no way i'll try it. its only broke on the front anway. i already have a skillz 14.4 drill. Is that sufficient and I found the xtractor 12pc. set at harbor freight. i can order the studs this week also do I really need the washer locks? The last question is what do I use to remove and install studs. Is there a special tool or do I use pliers. Thanks. it'll only help me to learn more about my car.

 

and also to get the bolts off the unbroken studs, I will need wd40 and a impact or a breaker or a plain ratchet. thanks again

 

To get out the studs that are not broken use two nuts and tighten them against each other on the studs and then unscrew the stud from the head. Since the two bolt are closed on each other the stud will unscrew instead of the nut.

Do the same to put them back in. You should spray a lot of rust penetrator like PB Rust Blaster or Liquid Wrench on all the manifold bolts and Y-Pipe bolt and let it soak over night. This stuff works better than WD-40 and it will help a lot.

I used new lock washer when I put mine back. Dont know if you must but for the extra few buck it was worth doing it anyway. When you order the studs, nuts, washers, and gaskets, get it from Courtesyparts.com. Chances are your local dealer will be more expensive. The list price on these parts are crazy. Like $12 each stud. I went to my local dealer because I was missing one Y-pipe nut and he charged me $6.31 for one stupid nut.

 

12mm ratchet and 12mm wrench (to lock the nuts together)

 

whats the parts list and who do i need to order from.also it looks kind of tight to get a drill up in that area or am i just seeing things.and one more.do i use both wrench and ratchet to remove the old stud or just to get the new stud ready. because i think I have an idea of locking the nuts together but need confirmationof how it works.

 

do you think that a harbor freight tools stud extraction drill set is strong enough for the job. if so the set is only like 10 bucks.

 

The fronts are easy, and there is plenty of room if you move the compressor out of the way. Harbor Freight tools are fine, although I would not skimp on the drill bits. Titanium coated at minimum, and get the ones that cut on the reverse so that they help loosen the stud as you drill. I just used a cheap ez-out set from Autozone and it worked fine.

You do need a right angle drill or drill adapter, tho. I don't think there's room for a full size drill, even in the front.