So she wont start...but let me tell you what I have tried first.

Fuel pump....check
Spark(as far as one of the plugs goes).....check
Starter(all the belts move when you try to crank it).....check

Turn key over...rrrr..rrr...rrr...nothing

I check the radiator(empty).....there's oil all over the motor...looks like it's seeping out of the bottom on the heads.

Oil sump....EMPTY

Now I was told when I was given the car that it needed a new head. But I'm puzzled because if it needed a head ,wouldn't it atleast start ? I'm in the process of learning the car so I dunno if there is anything maxima specific(some kind of sensor or something ) that would keep in from starting. Now I was told by a friend of mine to make sure there was no start interference (dropped valve or something). Can anyone help me pin point the problem. So I know what to fix or what to have fied if I end up(god forbid ) taking it to the shop .

My car is a 90' GXE


~BB~

P.S

Can skipping of the belt throwing off timing have anything to do with this.I don't know if that's the culpret(previous owners are not car savy). I'm not to sure how savere the outcome of such an event could be. But right now I'm thinking that skipping of the belt might have caused it to possibly bend a valve. Thus F&^#*& up the head. But that's just my theory....


If the heads are the issue and it's a matter of changing them out and properly timing the car. I have access to a set of VG30E heads that have been ported and polished on my friends old 300Z motor. They are free if I want them becuase the turbo motor for the Z is almost done. I just want to be SURE of what the problem is BEFORE I start tear'n S@&* apart.

~BB~

 

Please Help !

~bb~

 

make sure your timing belt hasnt snapped.

 

My money is on no fuel.
if you have no oil pressure (a symptom of no oil) the fuel pump will cut off.
now you may have heard the initial prime of the fuel pump, but it Shouldn't be running otherwise.
just my thoughts.

 

Fuel pump is good I check it and man does it flow.....

Belt is good and intact(just replaced it)

The pump runs continuously when key is in...


There's is no oil in the car either....Think I should fill it up,then see what that does ?

~BB~

 

You have a heck of a lot of work a head of you lol. When you rebuild everything, make sure you put in a new water pump and thermo..

O yeah, trying to start a car w/o oil..........thats a big no no.

 

Is it just me or should some people be going to a mechanic instead of doing things themselves. If you dont know that you need oil in the car then you are getting a little ahead of yourself trying figure out what is wrong.

Dont be penny smart and pound foolish!

 

head gasket blown? if there is no compression then there is no start. Just an idea.

 

I'm very much capable of what I am doing I havent had chance to fully check anything out cause I have not been home. On top of that this is notes I've taken over a two day period. However I know and am familier with the VG motor. But like I said before everycar is differen't, since I got the car during the night and was not really informed on what it's condition was. Of course I'm gonna turn it over. It's part of what you to help pin point a problem. But I guess you must have mist that in"mechanic" school. Now, back on subject....

So far everything seems to be pointing back to the heads...


~BB~

 

That is a deffinite possibility...then again gives me an excuse to put on better heads

~BB~

 

did you check the distributor and cap?

 

I'll do it tommrow...I got pleny of time

~BB~

 

If you have that one spark [on time] at least in one good compressed cylider, the engine must at least sputter, would prove ECU works up to a point. If fuel is injected...

If timing belt off for -both banks-, engine sputters but will not start.

Make compression test. But then, if it has NO sputtering at all, you should have all six pistons with a hole or bent valves, possible but highly improbable...

IF ECU does not drive the injectors =no pulses =no gas =totally dead. Need scope or something else to verify.

IF Ign switch broken, might fool ECU: Open/repair or replace.
(Hotwire it : +12V to coil and test start, might even work and feed the ECU, however theres danger that ECU might blow, dunno, I have not good enough wiring diagrams & or ECU schematics...)

Look at the ECU unit, seek out its error codes from the net or Chilton manual. Plus check those already mentioned, oil etc...
Titta på http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/104/

Dont you just give up. Win this battle for yourself... This is fun and its yours, chance to learn...

 

Yeah I haven't spent any serious money on it yet...That's whY i'm just asking nd checking and asking so when I do go in to fix it. I know EXACTLY what I'm fixing without taking a chance and spending a bunch of unnecessary money.


Thansk for the link


~BB~