One of my calipers was messed up so I decided to change it out this weekend. It's the front left(driverside) one. I changed it out, and now I have no brakes at all. I bled em and stuff but they still seem not to stop AT ALL. Maybe I bled em wrong, anyone have step by step instructions as how to exactly bleed your 4th gen brakes, that would help. Could it be the master cylinder? If so, how much do those babies run? Thanks in advance.

 

When you say you have no brakes at all... You mean you can't stop at all...right. Does your e-brake work?

When you replaced the caliper did you drain all the brake fluid or did you just remove the old caliper and replace it with the new one?

 

It could be the master cylinder, but considering the recent repair history of the vehicle it is more likely air in the lines.

Good detailed instructions for bleeding the brake hydraulic system will be found in the Chilton repair manual (page 9-5) and the Haynes repair manual (page 9-16). You can buy these books in any large bookstore or auto parts store. They may be available at your public library.

 

I'm pretty sure it's just air in the lines, nope, no brakes at all. The e-brake does work of course probably because it is run by a cable and not fluid. By draining all the fluid would that just be just letting the old stuff out and filling with new stuff? What about a flush? Sounds like a good idea, how much fluid does the brake system hold?

 

IIRC, the order that you bleed the system is different for Maximas with anti-lock brakes. Typically, for non-ABS, you should bleed the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. I don't have my service manual with me so I can't check, but I think for ABS it is RR, then LF, then LR, then RF.

 

Just do a careful job of bleeding all four wheels. That constitutes a flush. You will probably need one quart of brake fluid.

 

Thanks guys, Your help is greatly apprecieted!!

 

I just bled brakes last week.

We pumped the pedal six times and held it to the floor on the sixth. While the pedal was down, we opened up the bleeder screw, let the fluid squirt out, and closed it off. Repeated procedure 3-4 times per wheel. My pedal is hard as a rock.

 

this method for brake bleeding on ABS (Acura TL) and non-ABS (my 94 Max) vehicles without problems. I used ATE super blue brake fluid so that I could tell when the old gold/brown fluid had really been flushed at each wheel.

http://members.aol.com/agspeed1/diybrake.htm

I tend to agree that on ABS equipped cars, turning the car on to allow the fluid to go through the ABS pump is wise.....but haven't heard of the alternate method for the wheel order.....

 

My car is non- ABS, and I have heard of the RR LR FR FL, which is basically do it in order of distance furthest from the master cylinder. I will do this and see how it goes.