Hey guys, it was about a month ago the last time I drove the maxima, it more fun to drive the Murano these days specially in the snow.
Last week I decided to check and see if the max would start after being left alone in the cold weather for like a month, but after few turn of the key it was obvious that the battery was either discharge or needed to be replace, so I went to a local store and bought a battery charger for 60$ which can also be use to jumpstart. I then proceed and remove the battery brought it inside for 24hrs and left it on the charger until it was fully recharge, the next morning I replug everything try to start the car but the battery could barely crank the starter so the engine did not start. I next plug the battery charger and put it on jumpstart and try to start the car again but even though it made few turn the engine didn't start so right there I knew the battery was done, the worst is the week before I ordered an Optima Red Top from battery.com thinking that after almost 5 years of good service the Nissan battery will be due to retire sometimes ( Bull$hit it 's just another reason to buy more stuff for the max ) anyway I was stuck and could not wait a week for the Optima cuz I needed the car for an important business meeting, the wife needed the Murano so I decided to go buy another brand new battery since it's only 90$ at Canadian Tire and not a bad thing to have a spare battery.
Came back home switch the battery and started the car, it fired up right away, so I let the car warm up for 5-10 minutes grab my laptop and fly to the meeting, just before arriving at the office the engine died on a stop light, I had a hard time to start it again and it wast impossible to keep the car running on idle so I had to drive with the 2 foots to keep idle around 1000 rpm on traffic light and stop. I finally made up to the office, drop the car to a local garage and ask the mecanics if he can find the problem, few hours later he call me and said he think it was the IAC switch but since that switch it's over 450$ he suggest I go to the dealer to confirm the diagnostic ( I had to left 170$ for labor and the car was still running like $hit ). Drove the car back to the dealer 2 days ago and explain the situation, and while the car was there I asked them to change oil and check my ABS that stop working few months ago, so basically I had a check engine light, the ABS, TCS and Slip. I also had to rent a car to go to my meeting.

After 2 days at the dealership, the service manager called me yesterday to tell me the good news. The IAC switch was screwed ( or whatever it's called ) and needed to be replace and they dont have it in stock, the cost 465$ CDN + labor, he also confirmed that one of the ABS sensor was also shot and the cost is 570$ + labor, so I proceed and tell him to fix the IAC switch but 570$ for an ABS sensor I said fock it as I dont really care about the ABS and dont want to pay 570$ for a sensor I'm shure I can find for cheaper. This pm I receive the call from the service manager, I though my car was ready, no no, he basically call me to tell me they had fryed the ECU and they dont have it in stock, but lucky me it's under warranty, otherwise it was a 1000$ so hopefully the car will be ready friday but that's going to cost cost me $$$.

I guess the happy ending is that I made it to the business meeting and closed that sale and made myself a 5 figures commission.

Cheers

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Why would they try to sell you the story about the ECU, If they fried the ECU why did you had to pay.. I now still under warranty, but Fu#$% them.... for that money I junk the car....

 

The service manager was telling me an ECU replacement is a 1000$, but because I'm at 93K KM the warranty cover it until 100K KM. When I started asking questions on how you can fried and ECU when changing the IAC switch, he answered dont bother it's under warranty, my guess is the dealer is screwing Nissan but there is nothing I can do for that.

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did your car throw any codes for the blown "IAC"? I'm getting P0505 - Idle Air Contol Malfunction. I'm wondering if this is the same thing you had...

 

Before this happend there was already a check engine which was referring to the evap canister, but it was not the first time I had that code and whenever it showed up I erased it with my OBDII consul, but it is possible that there was multiple error code, because of my schedual I couldn't verify before I drop the car to the dealer, so I had to thrust the dealer. It sound like you having a similar problem, if your car cant stay on idle that's probably the same problem.

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Just wanted to add that in most modern cars the ECU depends on a steady voltage for its "idle memory" and if your battery is really weak, even if the alternator is good, the car often will not idle. (stalls if you take your foot off the gas, runs ok otherwise)

 

i'm having trouble with the car idling too high, at the moment. It's been 'bucking' too. I cant for the life of me figure it out. Hopefully the dealer can figure it out... ouch.

 

Just got the car with today and the car run like before, now I just need to find a goog ABS sensor at the junkward hopefully for 100$ or so, the dealer was asking 567$. All in all it cost me a little over 1000$, that was including car rental, oil change, 2 battery and a battery charger.

 

my car has the same problem. After 2 weeks vacation, first SES light on. dealer changed the battery and told me to change back the original intake system cause the IAC wend bad. Well, after 3 days later, SES light on again and engine can't start it.
Dealer found out that the ECU went bad and need to replace. man that's US$1000 for only the part. my car is over 47k mile now but lucky me that I have the aftermarket warranty so I may just need to pay half of the $$$$.
Since the ECU is back order now, so still waiting.....
Btw, I think there is something wrong with the ABS sensor bacause I already change front and back ABS sensors last year. I didnt' hit anything but the sensor just went bad suddely......

I wonder how much for the new G35.......

 

If you have a PO 505 that's the IAAC valve that needed to be change and apparently sometime when they put the new IAAC valve the ECU blows. I also had a PO 440 well I finally find out what was the reel reason for this code, sometime they say the gas cap is not closed properly, even if I kept closing the cap very tight the code kept coming back, it was because of the rust on the filler, than you need to clean the rust and then it should be all ok.

Yesterday I went to the dealer and check the Altima Se-R and the 350Z both are really nice but since I already have 2 cars for the family my next car is going to be a 350 Z Performance.

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