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How to save hundreds of $$$ on an exhaust repair.

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Old Jan 21, 2005 | 06:35 PM
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How to save hundreds of $$$ on an exhaust repair.

Recently I had to fix one a problem that came up on my 2k SE and I would like to share my experience, perhaps it will help you to save hundreds of $$$.
The problem was exhaust system. I noticed that the car started to sound rougher and rougher with every day. After a couple of weeks it got bad to the point that I would hear a loud roar every time I press the gas pedal. The sound for a while was actually kind of cool, (some people pay money to get their cars sound like that but I prefer my car running quiet, so I went to my mechanic and asked him to look at the car.
The problem was at the connection point of the pipe that comes from muffler assembly and the pipe that comes from rear exhaust tube assembly. At the welding point, the muffler assembly pipe was disconnected from the connector plate. I was really surprised that a four year old car would have a problem like this.
Anyway, my mechanic told me that because muffler and the pipe are one single component – I can’t change only the pipe and have to buy the whole thing with muffler. Dealer price - $375 . Local junkyards does not sell any exhaust parts. I took the car to another mechanic, and he told me that I also have to change rear exhaust tube assembly (another ~$300) Plus work .
Now we are talking about $700 just for a rotten pipe. You might as well buy the whole catback from Stillen for this kind of money. However I didn’t want a new catback, and I didn’t want to spend this kind of money.
Finally a friend of my recommended his mechanic to me. The guy picked up the car on the lift, looked at the problem, and told me that the only thing I need to do is to replace that junction part where both pipes meet. I said ok. It took him only 15 minutes to cut off bad parts, sand the pipes and weld them back together with a new piece. He charged me only $40 for it.
Now the car runs just the way it used to run before – quiet . Perhaps this fix isn’t the best solution, but it is definitely the cheapest one, and hopefully will work for some time.
BTW, if anyone has the same problem and lives in Philly area, I can give you phone# of this mechanic (he does welding and other mechanical work).
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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The first mechanic was an absolute moron. The second was just doing what is normally don't to fix rusted exhaust.
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 08:48 PM
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This thread is only helpfull to those that believe Santa Claus is real.
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 06:58 AM
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Are you implying that Santa.......anyway that would be typical if you say it were the dealer or a chain muffler shop. Years ago that happened to me with a Volvo V6--they wanted nearly $600 because the pipe in front of the cat was rusted-out. When I said no they said they could cut out the bad part and weld it for $70, saying it's hot enough up that far for the weld to stay good for years. Sure, I paid the $70 but I didn't respect them.
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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An exhaust shop or your local mechanic wants the profit from the sale of the parts.

Truthfully, failed exhaust system welds can be fixed easily in less then 10 minutes. The hard part is finding the guy with a welder that is willing to do the job.

Nice job Teser!
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 08:16 AM
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muffler weld? $3.00
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by spanishrice
muffler weld? $3.00
yeah, the part they put in literally looks like something that might cost $5 at an autoparts shop, and they charged me $70.......

I guess it's like doing your own plumbing at home. You save big by DIY, but you have to be setup to be able to do it. The only thing I notice is that the professionals do a much neater job with the soldering, I will give them that. But the name of the game is to not leak, and nearly anyone can accomplish that if they are patient....
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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welding is expensive any way you put it.
Old Jan 23, 2005 | 12:04 PM
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good fix, i would have gone with a new exhaust but thats just me, but for someone who wanted to keept he quiet sound and not buy a new exhaust, you good a good cheap solution.
Old Jan 24, 2005 | 07:05 AM
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Not if you own your Mig

Originally Posted by spanishrice
welding is expensive any way you put it.
Old Jan 24, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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Teser, are you are talking about the junction between the rear muffler and the middle muffler, close to the rear suspension? If so I beat you to the punch!

I was pissed to no end that because the two flanges (the junction between the rear of the middle muffler (not the cat) and the front of the rear muffler) rotted away. At best 2 inches of metal! The rest of the muffler is beautiful, say about 80% original quality stainless, just these 2 flanges made out of crappy pig-iron.

Either the Nissan engineers were too stupid when they spec-ed the muffler system of the specifically under-engineered it. Either way it's not a good reason.

Up here Nissan wanted 400$ for the middle and 350$ for the rear, plus time of course. Now to add insult to injury, the rear replacement muffler is guaranteed for life, the middle is not! At least if they tried to make it look like they were not trying to screw us it may be easier to take.

A 60$, chop the crap, insert a tube inside the muffler pipes, weld the crap out of the outside of it, has held up for over 6 months, including the past 2 winter months with all the ravages of the heat cylces.
Old Jan 24, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Not if you own your Mig
No tig, no care!!
Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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I'd like to see you use a TIG.

This entire thread seems like common sense to me.
Old Jan 25, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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Using a TIG would not really fit the situation. TIG welding is primarily for clean, raw metal. A MIG weld would be ideal in this situation due to the fact that you're welding a new pipe to an older one with some rust on it.

FYI- Just about anyone can use a MIG welder. TIG welding.....now that takes skill
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