Hey I was browsing around and came across this:

http://www.yarchive.net/car/hot_start.html

Basically, if your timing is advanced too far, the spark will fire and ignite the mixture while the engine is still coming up to TDC. So the ignition is pushing against the starter. I dunno, check it out, maybe it'll help someone.

 

The problem seems more to when you're trying to crank the car over and it starter is having to work against it. I think more of our problems are that the car starts, but it idles like crap for a little bit, then clears up.

S

 

I am having this problem. It got to the point where my car shut off after start up this weekend. The car got hotter than usual and rather than catching its self on a restart it idled down and cut off. My feelings are that my problem is tied to my water temp....I will pull codes soon and let anyone know if I have any.

 

for those that are having hot start problems, maybe we can figure out what it is if we all post our set ups....I have an 87SE

O2 sensor=bosch

-never replaced the coolant temp sensor

-wires, plugs, roter/button, coil...less that one year old

-I have had the injector recall performed

-AAV is less than one year old

-never replaced any gaskets in the intake manifold

-Just replaced CHTS 3K ago

*when I crank my car after it is hot the idle will drop down to almost 0 then come back up then drop down a few more times before it finally catches (a few times it has actully died). This only happens to my car once the car is warm, and it does not affect driving the car (i.e. does not miss while driving)

**can you other guys please post the same info. that I have as it relates to your car...also post any other info you may think pertains to the hot start problem.

 

CHTS would be the next culprit I would assume. Looks like you we're already going to do the gaskets....though I have a harder time believe they would cause your problem. Usually if you have a leaky gasket, it'd be more apparent when you started the motor cold because of contraction in the gasket. But when it heats up, it should expand, and most likely reseal itself.

S

 

BTW, my car has thrown codes for the CHTS before when it was having starting problems.....but I also had difficult starts in the morning.

 

ok, I just added CHTS, I forgot about that one...mine is new

 

also I have never changed the EGR valve

-I have a new PCV valve as well

**can someother people with this problem please post what I have posted, thanks

 

Hey fellas
Have you ever adjusted the BCDD? It sits right in front of the intake man. Pry off the rubber cap and give it a quarter turn clockwise(I think) to increase the vaccum in the man. while braking/deaccelerating. This might help with the Idle too im not sure. If the car also stalls right after a hot start and when you come to a stop I know this will help.

 

ok well before and after my top end rebulid i had the same problem...

O2 has 6k on it (niehoff OEM replacement)
All top end gaskets replaced
Alternator has 8k on it
PCV is new
TPS sensor has less than 1k on it

I know i have an AAV and EGR problem but havent replaced them....my ERG vtube (the one that connects under the EGR) came off and i didnt have this problem, how ever.....i was going on a long trip and i only stopped once in between and it didnt have a problem, now that tubes back on and i have started a new job and i go further to get there so my car gets warmer and i have this problem....if any one can link me to an inexpencive but decent EGR valve i'll gladly buy it and install it when i get my tax refundand let you know from there

 

ok how did i kill this thread?

 

yeah this is a good thread we should keep this one going....I am leaning towards a egr valve problem, but I am not positive. I have no clue how to test if it is causing the problem though. I can push my plunger up while the car is running and it will die. Which I think is proper operation. I have not had this problem since I replaced my intake manifold about a week ago. The plentum gaskets was pretty well deterioriated so I put some copper form-a-gasket around it and put everything back together. I do not know if this solved my problem because my car sucks on idle....I think I may have cross threaded my egr valve and I am not positive I have my vacuum line hooked up correct. I need to know where the one coming off the carcole canister goes, and also the one from the front thing on the manifold (it the only appratise on the grille side of the manifold).

 

cardana are you still having trouble setting you Idle speed? If the Idle speed is set too high it might make the EGR system engage while the car is at idle. Its only supposed to start working when the RPM's hit 2000. So if you car is sucking at Idle you can just put a screw in the vaccum hose that actuates the EGR.

 

Actually, it's suppose to be around 2700 or so when the EGR system is suppose to activate. You can usually watch the valve open up close with a flashlight.

S

 

yeah, my idle is running right around 2000 on startup and around 1500 once warm. I am going to look into this, this weekend. I know for a fact I have cross threaded my EGR valve, so I am going to start there, I can hear it hissing around that area so I think that may be causing a problem. I'll report back.

-Carson

 

bring it back

for the first time last night when I cranked my car while it was already warm, it would stumble for a few seconds then die. It did this twice. The second time I did it I could barley get the car cranked again, and when I finally did I had to stay on the gas for a few seconds to get it to hold the RPMs up high enough to drive.

anyone have any more info on the hot start stuff?

 

well....my mass air flow sensor went out, but i havent gotten to tweak everything back to running right (i adjusted a few things to help keep it running with a bad MAF)

but replacing it has gotten rid of any warm/hot start issues....but then again it might be because everythings outa wack