well i need new brake pads for my max... i'm thinking about getting portorfields.. the garage that i normally go to charges about $150 for installation.. i was reading the installation on cheston's page it doesn't seem that hard.. for those of you have done it how hard is it? about how long will it take? and do any of you know any other sides w/ brake pad installation guides other then cheston's?

thanks!

 

The Haynes repair manual has very good coverage on this subject. You can buy this book in any large bookstore or auto parts store. Perhaps it is available at your public library.

 

how hard is it to do?

 

Not hard at all but keep in mind that depends how much experience you have on working with cars...

Brakes are nothing to 'experiment' on...

Check below to see some pics of disassembly of the calipers....

You won't need to perform all the steps... just stop at the 'remove pads' section unless you are going to resurface (turn) the rotors... in which case you'll need to remove the caliper bracket...

click here

Get a manual like Daniel suggested or at least go to the public library and copy the section on the "Haynes" manual or equivalent...

 

Today was a nice day, so I decided to install the Axxis metalmasters I had been sitting on for a while. Pads in, but I still cannot finesse the e-brake bracket back on to the stud to attach the cable. I mounted the tires and drove the car, resulting in the left rear wheel becoming extremely hot. There is also a certain aroma in the air. I assume the pads are engaged & are generating unintended friction. Did I not turn the piston enough, and what should the boot look like when it is contorted clockwise to install those new pads? Is there a trick to putting the e-brake bracket back on?

Any guidance would be appreciated. As always, thank you.

 

Why did you have to take off the e-brake cable? I don't remember having to take them off even when I changed my rotors...

If one of the brakes is dragging... better get it fixed otherwise you'll ruin the new pad... or at least glaze it...

 

The heat and odor are signs of a dragging brake.

I don't think you could have installed the new pads if you had not turned back the piston enough.

I'm puzzled about the e-brake bracket. I don't understand why it won't go back on. I don't understand why you took it off in the first place.

 

Daniel, I was reading the directions in the Chilton manual, and I swore I read (or misinterpreted) the removal of the bracket. There is a mounted pin next to the stud that will not allow easy maneuverability when trying to reinsert the bracket once removed. I now know the bracket never should have been removed.

There is no longer excess heat being generated or the aforementioned odor. I just have to reattach the bracket. I think a fresh look will allow me to fix this problem. Thanks for the information.

 

Turbolaw99, PLEASE talk with AndyXXL about those pads. While we were going to a meet last Saturday, some fool tried to cut into my lane and I had to stop as quickly and as controlled as I could to avoid running other people off the road. AndyXXL was behind me and he told me that he has those pads and they faded terribly. He also said if I hadn't accelerated, he would have been in my rear bumper.

 

nuts I think that to change pads if someone is charging you $150 they are ripping you of just my 2cents

ps. I went to a local place in baltimore and the told me that for my ss-brake lines the pads the rotors front and back plus the ypipe and the catalitic converter and the H&Rs springs with the Konis they would give me a deal of $365 for alll that I think that was a damn good offer if I was going to do the installs seperatly they would charge 265 for the brake upgrade and the pipes and 150 for the suspension work and by far these guys were the least expensive around Maryland area if any body knows a less expensive place than that please let me know