Break Fluid/Lines Replacement write-up?
Break Fluid/Lines Replacement write-up?
If anyone has a write-up on the replacement of the Break lines and/or fluid, please forward. Have bought braided lines and blue racing fluid recently, my pads are already skweeking and would like to do this soon. Thanks.
soak the lines with some PB blaster or WD40, and use special 10mm LINE wrenches. These are almost all encloused like a boxed in wrench but have a little slit in them to bo over the line. Basically this wrench almost wraps around the whole line screw on fitting. You will need 2 of them- one to hold the hard line and the other to break loose the rubber line.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43994
Something similar but less expenssive will work good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43994
Something similar but less expenssive will work good.
Zippin - Its a 2000 SE also with a ton of chips. By any chance did you try to do what BlackBirdVQ did?
BlackBirdVQ - those wrenches seem a bit pricy. but I will search for them at SEARS or somewhere.
Any suggestions on the Brake Fluid Flush? with pics?
BlackBirdVQ - those wrenches seem a bit pricy. but I will search for them at SEARS or somewhere.
Any suggestions on the Brake Fluid Flush? with pics?
the flush is easy. once you disconnect the lines, the brake fluid will drain. then you can add the new fluid and pump them, until the old fluid is out and new fluid starts coming out
Originally Posted by ag2k
Zippin - I got some Blue Racing Fluid and don't want to mix it with the old stuff. I don't want the blue to get mixed with the old yellow-ish, will it mix, turn green?
Does anyone have a writeup on this or is the process this simple. Just loosening the bolts around the brake lines, letting the fluid drain, replace the lines with stainless steel ones, add new fluid, pump the brakes, repeat the last 2 steps until the new fluid starts to come out, retightening everything; is that it?
Originally Posted by ag2k
If anyone has a write-up on the replacement of the Break lines and/or fluid, please forward. Have bought braided lines and blue racing fluid recently, my pads are already skweeking and would like to do this soon. Thanks.
And the Dot 5 is not compatible with dot 3 and 4 so ensure you drain all the old fluid out of all 4 lines.
I thought it was bad to use the racing fluid (dot5) with ABS?
And the Dot 5 is not compatible with dot 3 and 4 so ensure you drain all the old fluid out of all 4 lines.
Today 08:28 PM
And the Dot 5 is not compatible with dot 3 and 4 so ensure you drain all the old fluid out of all 4 lines.
Today 08:28 PM
ThaMax - I don't want to understimate your knowledge but I understood it was compatible with ABS.
Most bottles of fluid will say that Dot 3 and 4 are compatible and Dot 5 will say do not mix with 3 and 4.
As far as the ABS goes, I use Dot 4.
Do a search for "Dot 5 abs" and see what you find. Here is one I found fast:
http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/access.htm
The DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications are for glycol based (regular) brake fluid, while DOT 5 is for silicone.
Silicone DOT 5 is not compatible with the ABS hydraulic control unit because it doesn't lubricate the ABS pump like glycol based fluid. Silicone is slightly more compressible than glycol fluid. It has a higher wet boiling point because it doesn't absorb moisture like glycol fluid. This lack of moisture absorption causes problems when water gets in the brake system. Instead of mixing with the brake fluid (so it can be flushed out easily), the moisture gets trapped at low points in the system and causes rust.
or here
http://www.csaa.com/global/articlede...7C2026,00.html
DOT 5 silicone fluid should never be used in an antilock brake system.
As far as the ABS goes, I use Dot 4.
Do a search for "Dot 5 abs" and see what you find. Here is one I found fast:
http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/access.htm
The DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications are for glycol based (regular) brake fluid, while DOT 5 is for silicone.
Silicone DOT 5 is not compatible with the ABS hydraulic control unit because it doesn't lubricate the ABS pump like glycol based fluid. Silicone is slightly more compressible than glycol fluid. It has a higher wet boiling point because it doesn't absorb moisture like glycol fluid. This lack of moisture absorption causes problems when water gets in the brake system. Instead of mixing with the brake fluid (so it can be flushed out easily), the moisture gets trapped at low points in the system and causes rust.
or here
http://www.csaa.com/global/articlede...7C2026,00.html
DOT 5 silicone fluid should never be used in an antilock brake system.
ATE dot blue racing Fluid is DOT 4 not DOT 5 the other ATE fluid is DOT 5(suitable for ABS)
side note. BMW use ATE brake fluid for all cars coming out from factory.I have abs on my M3 and I do use ATE DOT blue racing, since is recommended by BMW dealer. (and the one they come with is DOT4 on my car)
ag don't worrie about it, the one you got is suitable for you car with ABS
side note. BMW use ATE brake fluid for all cars coming out from factory.I have abs on my M3 and I do use ATE DOT blue racing, since is recommended by BMW dealer. (and the one they come with is DOT4 on my car)
ag don't worrie about it, the one you got is suitable for you car with ABS
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