anybody installed one of these

 

technically its possible if you have an aftermarket alarm with remote start

inquire in the audio/electronics forum- someone should know the specifics

 

cool.......

 

Know of a few peeps that have done it. Most relevant was a local guy in his I30. Went right in the cig lighter hole...pretty neat and easy to install/uninstall...

 

thats kinda low on my car but still cool

 

I have push button start, on my car because it was a necessity not because I really wanted it, but are you talking about the pre-made ones or do you want to make one yourself? I can help with the instructions

 

the pre-made ones your mount and wire in

 

I'd like any help you can give Redmax. Except in a 4th gen. I can figure it out once I know which wires are which.

 

i have a question: WHY?

 

why not? its a cool thing to have. plus it save you from twisting your wrist

 

thats funny

 

You're asking me Frisco? Let me explain.

Three weeks ago I towed my car to school to use the shop to weld on the frame. That went well and we pushed it out into the parking lot until we came and picked it up that night. Well, the stupid admin. is p!ssed at me for various reasons. So they dispatched the liason officer to my car. He proceeded to write me a ticket for "Parking outside of established Stall" Don't worry I'll fight it. Court is Tuesday. Best part is that I didn't have a plate on it. So the cop lifted up the car cover and got my VIN. This is all before the key incident. So about a month before this my first key broke. I was like alright I'll go soon.

So my buddies and I show up at about 8:00PM to toss it on a trailer and bring it back to my house. I stuck the key in the ignition and it was on the security lock. This is how my last key broke so I was being careful. I was jimmying it around but the wheel would not unlock. Then the key broke. I was in shock for a moment. WTF was I going to do. I took the piece and shoved it back in the ignition and then stuck the bit that was left on the plastic part and shoved it in there. I tried to turn it but it wouldn't go. I fiddled with it for at least an hour. Deciding that we couldn't leave the car there again the next day due to more possible tickets and hassless(Also, snow was forcasted.) So we go home and I toss a bunch of tools in a toolbox and head back. I was thinking I might be able to pry the key cylinder away from the surrounding but that didn't work. BTW, the steering column and dash were already ripped apart for the clutch pedal install. So, after thinking about it and exhausting all the remote possibilities I resorted to smashing the **** out of it with a hammer. That went well. It took a good 10 minutes of whacking before the cylinder broke away. Thats a good thing I guess. I pulled it out and stuck a flat head in the little indentation way it there. Turned the screwdriver... It unlocked the wheel and we proceeded to push it onto the trailer.

That is why. I'm not about to spend $XXX to get a new key cylinder and then have it rekeyed to my key. I've always kinda wanted push button start and this is a good excuse for it.

 

hmm, i never even considered teh fact that my key can get broken in the ignition...

 

you still have to put the key in there and turn it. not all the way to start, but to the one before, then you press the button to start. i think thats more work.

 

^^ Unless you are very good at wiring relays

If anyone is doing this DIY with ~12 relays and a switch, feel free to pm me, I install for circuit city and have thought about this a lot, got a few good ideas

And if anyone needs wiring info/colors for their car that Igor911 or I havent yet posted in the Sticky in the audio section let me know.

-kevin

 

If anyone has a diagram of the ignition harness of a 4th gen that would be great. I'll talk with JClaw. I think he has a bunch of them.

Thanks kpr. What do you mean 12 relays? Why would I need a relay? What I plan to do is have a three position switch that acts as the key.(On, Acc., Off) Then a momentary in series for the starter. And then I'll hide one or two power cutoffs to prevent theft.

 

You can wire an entire remote start (or start with a negative trigger switch) with 10 relays, but thats not going to have an acc position.

 

I don't care about any remote start BS. I just want a simple three position switch. That would work; right?

 

Well yeah but how are you going to wire it all? Do they make an aftermarket 3 position one?

Cuz if not youll have to power the one accessory wire with the acc position, the ignition and the accessory for the on position, and the ignition and starter but NOT the accessory for the start position.

 

and I didnt mean remote start, just that you can wire it all up with ignition, accessory, 12 volts, and starter, with 10 relays, and a ground to trigger it.

 

I say...get a new ignition cylinder, you have to get a new key anyways..for the doors so might as well do it the right way IMO.

 

Yeah they make three position switches. Its called Radioshack. The current is low so I'm not worried about it. I'm not understanding this "10 relay" thing. Why the fxck would you need 10 relays? Can I make the starter independant from the on position?

I guess I need a wiring diagram before I can postulate. There are four wires coming into the back of the ignition switch.

Nupe, its all smashed to ****. I'm not going to be able to get a new cylinder in there unless I get the whole new surround piece. And that think is connected to the steering column very wierd. Its got some hardcore rivets or something. I wanted to take it off to save weight but I haven't had luck. And there isn't much room in there for the roto zip.

 

I just helped my friend install a turbo timer. It's not really the same as what you're trying to do, but it was a fairly simple little box with just a few wires. We had to take apart the plastic cover on the steering column to access the wire harness from the key cylinder to install it. He uses it to keep his car running for up to 10 minutes AFTER he turns the key to the OFF position and removes it. During the time while the car is running without the key, everything works. You can use the wipers, the radio, and the air conditioner, and you can even drive the vehicle (but not very far, because the timer shuts off after 10 mins).

This proves that it is definitely possible to "fake" having your key in the ON position, but for your purposes, you'd want to do it without the countdown timer, because you want the car to keep running, not shut off after a few minutes. If you could either wire your own setup or modify a turbo timer to fool the car into thinking the key was in the ON position, then all you would need to do is wire up a button to the starter (to replace the key in the START position).

The only problem with that setup is that it would only replace the OFF, ON, and START positions of the key. It would not have any replacement for the ACC key setting. That's not really a problem, I guess. It's not like ACC is necessary to operate the vehicle, but you might want to keep ACC if you like to run your radio while the car is off for some reason.

 

I meant an aftermarket three position switch designed for this purpose, you dont have to get snappy. Your ignition, accessory, starter, and 12 volts wires that go to your key cylinder arent very low current, theyre all 12 gauge wires, so your low current switch, if it carries less than about 20 amps will probably burn up.

I was offering my help as I install remote starts and that type of stuff for circuit city, Ive installed turbo timers and know how they work keeping the car running, and know what would be required for any method you choose to install your push button deal. So if you realize that advice from those with knowledge you dont have can never hurt, you can pm me. If not, best of luck to you.

 

alot of MY350Z.com member that did this mod using Honda S2000 push start buttom.
ask them since we have similar wiring -and stuff





there was a s2000 push buttom a month ago on the other for sale forum on our site.

 

I wasn't being snappy. I simply don't understand this 10 relay thing. Alright, so I might need a more heavy duty switch but I can get one at a hardware store for 10 bux.

Guys I know this is in the 5th gen forum but please keep in mind I have a 95. There is none of the NVIS crap. I will probably fire it up tomorrow.

 

Well, I tried to get it started tonight but it wouldn't work. So I'm coming here for help. Turns out there is six wires. I have figured out that Blue is Accessory. That I'm fairly certain of. I have figure that white with a red runner is 12v. I'm less certain but still pretty sure of that. Solid red seems to be "On". There are three more that I have no idea what they do when connected with the ON and 12v they cause relays to click. I can here them in the dash. So what I was thinking was put Acc, ON and 12v together and then touch the others, one at a time briefly until I figured which one was the starter. I had no luck. Only the relays clicking at me for like an hour. I methodically went through and did every possibility.

Then I realized that I had forgotten about the two 18 gauge wires that went into the key cylinder. I spliced those thinking that might be the starter somehow. Nope. I think that was a little sensor that sensed if the key was in the ignition so it wouldn't enable the keyless to work.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. It really doesn't help that this is after four moths of not starting the car so it could be numerous other issue but I don't think so. I PM'ed I30Mike to discuss with the starter with him. Other than that I'm confident that all the wiring is correct. Every single plug on the bia is plugged in except the ones that used to be for the tranny. There is plenty of fuel in the tank but none in the lines because the fuel pump doesn't seem to turn on. I though it automatically came on whenever in the on position.

Edit: I just got it. After studying the wiring diagram I realized that the starter has a little switch within it. Only when it recieves 12 volts does that switch close and complete the circuit. So I just ran some speaker wire to the little plug on the starter and sure as **** it cranked right over. I also, just realized I had my fuel backwards. I'll fix that tomorrow. I'm going to sleep.

PS: I still don't know what the other three wires are for. Just other misc accessories?

 

*ahem* Figured Id let you do this and come back for help since you were convinced it was going to be so easy

Now...like I said in post #15, the wiring info is in the Sticky in the audio forum, so since you didnt look there, here it is
12 volts: white/red or white/purple, (+), ignition harness
Starter: black/yellow or black/white, (+), ignition harness
Second Starter: green/black or red/blue, (+), ignition harness
Ignition: black/white or black/red, (+), ignition harness
Accessory: red/yellow or red, (+), ignition harness
Second Accessory: blue or white/blue, (+), ignition harness

Your ignition wire will get 12 volts if the key is in acc, on, or start position, for stuff like the fuel pump that needs power while the key is in and while cranking. Your accessory and second accessory will get 12 volts in the acc or on position, but not in the start position i.e. to power accessories like your radio that are on when the key is in but not during cranking. And your starter and second starter are obviously wires that you need to give 12 volts to to start the car. Ideally, like without the push button start, you turning the key does all this for you, and gives the correct wires 12 volts at the correct times, so from here you need to figure out how and when you are going to give these wires power using whatever method/switch you chose for this.

GL man
-kevin

P.S. Yes there is sarcasm in my post, so dont take it offensively, because a lot of people who have never seen me post get mad that im being an a$$, but its the net man its all in good fun.

 

Just kind of a dumb question here, but when you "jiggled the key", did you also bother to try to jiggle the stearing wheel? You might not be in this mess if you'd have slowed down a little and thought it out first. The stearing lock and the key lock are interconnected. You have to jiggle both occaisionally.

 

KPR, as I said this is quite easy once the wires are figured out. When I looked at the wiring diagram I got it fairly quickly. Also, thanks for the input but I think the 4th gen is different. For me Red is ignition. It doesn't matter though. I'm just bypassing all that crap and running a seperate momentary circuit straight from the bat to the starter. But no point in arguing about trivial ****. Thanks.

GBauer, of course I know that both have to be done at the same time. My key was very weak to begin with. When I park in bad areas I do that on purpose. It takes four seconds to onlock it usually.

 

The wiring info I posted above, as well as in the audio sticky, is straight from Directed Electronics for a 95 max. They also list the two colors for each because the wires change color at a plug under your dash.

-kevin

 

will these type of switches work? http://www.mmrusa.com/ignited.htm