My CV boots are just beginning to crack but are not cracked all the way through. Should I replace the entire axle, or would just the boot be fine? Thanks for any help.

 

If it is just beginning to crack, and you have no clicking or noises from your cv joint, you should be fine just replacing the boot. There are a number of recent posts on this topic.

 

Just the boot. However, I just did this job and I wouldnt' call it easy. Once I got the hang of it though it went smoothly.

When replacing the boot, you'll see if the grease inside was contaminated. The outer boot contains a greyish-black grease, the inner boot contains a yellow-brown grease.

Dave

 

just do the boot, unless there is dirt inside, then do the whole axle.

 

Do the boot.

I'm just curious if anyone has ever tried putting rubber cement to fix the rubber if that will work for a while. (Just an Idea)

 

I expect that the extra stiffness of the glued repair will cause the stress on the rubber immediately around it to increase, and it will tear again along the edge of the glued section. Usually the rubber is so dried and micro-cracked that there isn't much rubber worth gluing.

If you had a gash in a relatively new boot, it may be worthwhile in a pinch, but it will still have a shorter lifespan for the reason I mentioned above.

Dave

 

What type of noise are we talking about.. i get a slight, light, click/thump sound when i come to a slow complete stop, when i take off slow, and when i first hit the bottom of my steep driveway on my front left wheel.. It only happens ONCE IN A WHILE... i have eibach/kyb suspension just incase anyone was wondering. Any ideas?? I looked in there and see nothing broken or hanging but im not too mechanically inclined !!! HELP!!

 

hhm sounds like your springs are touching? i doubt that with eibach. if you turn hard and hear a click thats most likely you have bad cvas

 

As we speak, I'm in the middle of replacing my struts and balljoints. Will it save much effort to do my CV boots now?
Thx.

 

I did, and I'm glad I wrapped it all together. Saves an alignment. If you're short on time, plan to do it later though. Cleaning out the parts and reassembling can be a mess unless you have a helper and a parts washer bin. I soaked my parts in a bucket of solvent - ugh messy.

You can read about it in the thread titled "fixed sloopy(sic) steering..." where I made some remarks. You'll need a jawed slide hammer from Autozone and a chisel to loosen the passenger side axle from the bearing housing. It took a little trick getting the CV back together.

Unfortunately, one of my diff seals didn't take and was leaking immediately. So until I get the new seal I'm still sidelined. I think changing the seals is more risky since others report it can be tough to install them leak-free.

Dave

 

From a financial prospective, you'll have to get an alignment again if you do the CV later. Your call. Usually if it aint broke dont fix it, thats my modo. Check to be sure it's still good and not starting to crack or split.

 

I have a problem with my CV boot. I got a remanufactured axle from Pep Boys. The boots are not cracked or split, however at the end of the outer boot by the wheel, the grease is comming out and spewing in the wheel well. Any ideas on how to fix. I would rather not replace the axle.

Should I use another clamp to tighten the boot down, or is the axle a gonner?