CV boots
#3
Just the boot. However, I just did this job and I wouldnt' call it easy. Once I got the hang of it though it went smoothly.
When replacing the boot, you'll see if the grease inside was contaminated. The outer boot contains a greyish-black grease, the inner boot contains a yellow-brown grease.
Dave
When replacing the boot, you'll see if the grease inside was contaminated. The outer boot contains a greyish-black grease, the inner boot contains a yellow-brown grease.
Dave
#6
Originally Posted by adithius
Do the boot.
I'm just curious if anyone has ever tried putting rubber cement to fix the rubber if that will work for a while. (Just an Idea)
I'm just curious if anyone has ever tried putting rubber cement to fix the rubber if that will work for a while. (Just an Idea)
If you had a gash in a relatively new boot, it may be worthwhile in a pinch, but it will still have a shorter lifespan for the reason I mentioned above.
Dave
#7
noise
Originally Posted by Zeus97MAX
If it is just beginning to crack, and you have no clicking or noises from your cv joint, you should be fine just replacing the boot. There are a number of recent posts on this topic.
#10
I did, and I'm glad I wrapped it all together. Saves an alignment. If you're short on time, plan to do it later though. Cleaning out the parts and reassembling can be a mess unless you have a helper and a parts washer bin. I soaked my parts in a bucket of solvent - ugh messy.
You can read about it in the thread titled "fixed sloopy(sic) steering..." where I made some remarks. You'll need a jawed slide hammer from Autozone and a chisel to loosen the passenger side axle from the bearing housing. It took a little trick getting the CV back together.
Unfortunately, one of my diff seals didn't take and was leaking immediately. So until I get the new seal I'm still sidelined. I think changing the seals is more risky since others report it can be tough to install them leak-free.
Dave
You can read about it in the thread titled "fixed sloopy(sic) steering..." where I made some remarks. You'll need a jawed slide hammer from Autozone and a chisel to loosen the passenger side axle from the bearing housing. It took a little trick getting the CV back together.
Unfortunately, one of my diff seals didn't take and was leaking immediately. So until I get the new seal I'm still sidelined. I think changing the seals is more risky since others report it can be tough to install them leak-free.
Dave
#11
Originally Posted by itorrey
As we speak, I'm in the middle of replacing my struts and balljoints. Will it save much effort to do my CV boots now?
Thx.
Thx.
#12
I have a problem with my CV boot. I got a remanufactured axle from Pep Boys. The boots are not cracked or split, however at the end of the outer boot by the wheel, the grease is comming out and spewing in the wheel well. Any ideas on how to fix. I would rather not replace the axle.
Should I use another clamp to tighten the boot down, or is the axle a gonner?
Should I use another clamp to tighten the boot down, or is the axle a gonner?
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11-01-2015 01:34 PM