Considering that it is somewhat PITA to replace the one in the tank, has anyone made an inline fuel filter set up to replace the one in tank? How have you done it, where did you place it, what parts used, did you take out the one from the tank or left it in, etc? Just currious... And yes, I have done forum search and found nothing on this topic...

 

Anyone even thought of the idea? Would it work? Would it affect fuel delivery? Thoughts....

 

Anyone 8 yrs later?

 

No reason to do this. Aside from that, you still need to at least service/remove the one in the tank.

Couple that with the fact that this thread is 8 years old, and we have come a long way from that, and doing it in the tank is actually not as bad as it seems.

 

what's wrong with the OEM one? It takes 30 minutes with basic tools to replace it and should last a long time.

 

The oem works just fine and takes about 20 mins to replace so its not bad at all to do.

On another note since the fuel pump connects into the tank filter your would need to come up with a new routing system in the tank and really its not worth it at all.

Replace oem one in the tank and be done.

 

Jus wondering cause I'm T off fuel system for my fuel solynoid nx system and thought bout adding filter. guess u guys are right.


thanks!

 

No point... first off you would have to take the OEM one out, and if you pull it out, you just save yourself the hassel of making an inline, and just replace it. I did it a few weeks ago, and beisdes a bit of gas sprayed, it was easy. I could probably do it in 20 min now. I am sure it would take a lot longer than 20 min to install an inline.

 

+8 It is not as hard as it looks at all, maybe 30-45 mins top. I did this comfortably, and I don't even change my oil.....

 

Dealer part only?

 

As of late yes, as these cars age, it might be available from aftermarket dealers.

Also, don't forget the o-ring.

 

Just replaced with a Beck Arnley on my 2K, and it was way easier than I thought. The only thing I didn't have was a new o-ring for the fuel tank. The current one looked fine, what's the risk if I didn't replace it?

 

Do these things clog up before the stock pump fails usually?
14 years with the stock stuff wonder when it'll take a dump.

 

It can be difficult to spot the microcracks in o-rings unless you have a magnifying glass. They do degrade over time. The biggest risk is some vapors escaping the tank and potential gas spillage. It isn't difficult to replace so you might want to think about putting in a new o-ring just for the sake of potential fuel loss.

I suppose ultimate worse case scenario would be a fire if enough gas escapes, but unless you cut the o-ring and had a missing section this would be doubtful.

They slowly clog over time. If you experience any hard starting, missing, hesitation during acceleration, etc they can all be related to a clogging/clogged filter and/or bad fuel pump.

 

My filter is 12 yrs old and most likely original. Has anyone ever had it fail in these cars? I've never changed the filter in any car I've owned. My Accord still has the original one at 175K miles and if it were to fail tomorrow, I wouldn't be too upset because it made it this long. Like Nissan, Honda considers the part "non-serviceable. "

 

Thanks, I think ill shell out the 35 bucks and have the O ring shipped from courtesy nissan, better safe than sorry.

Another question, could not replacing the O ring cause longer crank time? I'm asking since the next morning after the filter replacement I started having to crank longer, but the car starts up. I also forgot to remove the gas cap during the replacement.

 

$30? What a rip off....try tri-cities nissan. See the link below.

http://www.nissanpartsasap.com/nissa...iption=Keyword

As far as the crank time you may want to double-check your fuel line and electrical connections. It should be taking longer to crank and start up. If anything it should be less. Did you drop the pump by chance? I did one time I was changing out my fuel filter and it acted up for a while after I dropped it, but eventually settled down.

 

Thanks for the link. Yep dropped the pump when I first tried to pop it out, now I'm thinking of a new pump. But the pump sounds ok while driving (back seat still out) and the pump activates at ignition switch in the on position. I guess my main issue is the o ring -- rechecked the install, and then noticed the ring was covered in fuel and indeed enlarged. Just found this in the forums explaining more.

Oh ya I pulled a P0300 last night. It went away after starting up upon tightening the gas tank seal. But I stripped one of the six bolt holes, so now my issue is compounded. No codes tho. Hopefully a new ring and some loctite can fix.

 

You don't need to tighten those bolts very much. I think the FSM gives a inch-pound in the range of 15 or something (very light). The right loctite should work for you. Keep in mind you should get loctite that won't degrade with contact from gas or vapors and isn't so strong you have trouble getting the bolt off the next time you may need to get in there.

 

So I got a new O-ring from the dealer, and replaced the stripped tank screw with a stray I had in the tool chest. I noticed opening and closing the tank a lot risks stripping, ruined a second one even torquing to spec. Off to the HW store for a full set.

After driving the problem came back and even worse, I had to call a tow truck to get me home from the HW store, I couldn't wait for to car to cool off cuz my wife was at the doctor and I had to pick her up . On cold start, lots of flow, no problem. On warm start, its like the car is out of gas. I first thought it was the pump because the filter is new, and I can blow through the filter. I filled up a full tank. Then I got home NP, but after a sanity check start-up, got a no start condition. I pulled the new filter out, and compared the pump fit to the OEM, lo and behold the aftermarket filter's hole for the rubber pump gasket tapers just a bit, not allowing the pump to push in completely and sit *perfectly* flush into the filter. So when the car is warmed up, fuel just isn't flowing properly, and the car sputters out quickly, or wont start at all. I reverted back to old filter and no problems. OEM filter on order from Nissan because I want a clean filter dammit!

Back to the original thread topic:

I've removed and re installed the friggin filter several times to troubleshoot, so at this point, I can change out the in-tank filter in 15 min, even with a topped up tank of gas (not recommended, but doable), but I've changed it at 1/4, 1/2, and full, just have to be extra careful with pulling out the assembly, and removing the fuel lines so the tank O-ring stays dry. Let the assembly drain a bit before removal. Nothing a Brawny paper towel cant help protect against, along with a bucket to catch the dripping assembly before it douses your back seat with fuel.

 

I thought the filter replacement might be daunting....but not nearly as bad as I thought. 45 minutes at the most.