New pads/rotors in the front only? Recommended?
New pads/rotors in the front only? Recommended?
I definitely need new pads and rotors...i'm hearing a clicking noise once in a while when i brake hard and i'm assuming that's the wear sensors on the pads and the car has been shaking while breaking for a while due to the warped oem rotors. I have seen that some members such as Lontar1 have only replaced the front pads and rotors and left the rear stock since the front takes all the beating. The clicking noise is only in the front drivers side so i assume the rears aren't as bad with it being a FWD car. I was also told that the OEM rotors really aren't that bad quality and many .org members have recommended that I just get OEM rotors and Hawk (or some other aftermarket) brake pads...Opinions or experience? Thanks guys.
How many miles on your car? The reason I ask is because you may be able to just have the rotors re-surfaced. Buy new, high quality pads. Don't be stingy here or else you'll just end up back where you are now.
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
Originally Posted by GBAUER
How many miles on your car? The reason I ask is because you may be able to just have the rotors re-surfaced. Buy new, high quality pads. Don't be stingy here or else you'll just end up back where you are now.
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
Axix Ultimate pads (latest greatest), i got them off the web. I would order some of those brembo disks from the goup deal or irotors off ebay, i think i saw the ultimate pads for $80 (front and rear).
Sure you can have the original disks cut, but dont they get the rust on them and look crappy after rains....
I am performing my second brake job on the front and havent touched the rear since pulling out those stock pads two years ago.
I have two other vehicles which have a set brake set up which sctivates the
rear brakes when applying light pressure to the brakes, the volkswagen passat (rear neads replacing as much as front, 120k) the Ford Expedition (though i just replaced the front only, 35k)
Theres a good write up on how to do the brakes on the max here, good luck
Sure you can have the original disks cut, but dont they get the rust on them and look crappy after rains....
I am performing my second brake job on the front and havent touched the rear since pulling out those stock pads two years ago.
I have two other vehicles which have a set brake set up which sctivates the
rear brakes when applying light pressure to the brakes, the volkswagen passat (rear neads replacing as much as front, 120k) the Ford Expedition (though i just replaced the front only, 35k)
Theres a good write up on how to do the brakes on the max here, good luck
Wear sensors usually make a high pitch squeel when they start to contact the rotor. The clicking sound you hear is probably the warped rotor working the pad around in the caliper when you are on the brakes, IMO. I have had mixed success turning rotors, sometimes it seems like when they have been turned they tend to warp again sooner than when they were the stock thickness and other times they last as well as when new.
Originally Posted by GBAUER
How many miles on your car? The reason I ask is because you may be able to just have the rotors re-surfaced. Buy new, high quality pads. Don't be stingy here or else you'll just end up back where you are now.
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
The reason the fronts where more than the rear has nothing to do with the car being a FWD. It is only because when you hit the brakes the weight gets transfered to the front. This causes the front to work harder because the tires up there have more traction than the rears. This follows for almost every car out there (I can only think of one off the wall exception and that would be drag cars with donuts up front and 20" + wide rears).
You could have the rotors re-surfaced however make sure they check the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer to ensure that you will be within spec once re-surfaced.
To answer your original question it is ok to chance fronts only as Rear's usually will last 50% to 60% more than fronts.
Hawk ceramic pads or Hawk HPS pads?
I heard Hawk HPS make more noise/dust etc so i assume most people go with the ceramic ones....where did you get yours and how much...i found them for $74 on Tire Rack for the fronts only. Thanks guys.
I heard Hawk HPS make more noise/dust etc so i assume most people go with the ceramic ones....where did you get yours and how much...i found them for $74 on Tire Rack for the fronts only. Thanks guys.
Hps they didn't have the ceramic when I got mine try them and about 3months do a feed back on them.
Here some links;
http://www.raceshopper.com/hawk_brak...gglehwkbrkpads
http://www.ultrarev.com/ecart/shopdi...xima&Year=2000
http://www.carjunky.com/
Here some links;
http://www.raceshopper.com/hawk_brak...gglehwkbrkpads
http://www.ultrarev.com/ecart/shopdi...xima&Year=2000
http://www.carjunky.com/
Originally Posted by mdemonte
Hps they didn't have the ceramic when I got mine try them and about 3months do a feed back on them.
Here some links;
http://www.raceshopper.com/hawk_brak...gglehwkbrkpads
http://www.ultrarev.com/ecart/shopdi...xima&Year=2000
http://www.carjunky.com/
Here some links;
http://www.raceshopper.com/hawk_brak...gglehwkbrkpads
http://www.ultrarev.com/ecart/shopdi...xima&Year=2000
http://www.carjunky.com/
Hawk even admits that their HPS line will tend to make noise and create more brake dust etc and that the ceramic pads are for more normal driving and are like OEM replacements
No mine don't squeal, but I heard them on a Acura TL co workers of mine and they squeal on her. Weird. I am gonna try the Ceramic ones next after I attempt the 2004 calipers and aftermarket 2 peice rotors After my rims come in first. (been 70 days waiting and still waiting sigh). It up to u depends how much u wana spend. I say try the Ceramic ones and let me know after 3 months of use how they are. I am curious.
rotors & such
after I think it is 20somek miles, I just changed out my entire brake setup from rotors to calipers to pads,...still have them setting around for real cheap if you want to go 2k3 oem. In great shape and could send pics if you were really interested, as I said I have no need for them now and would part cheaply.
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