My Cefiro has 230,000kms on the clock, getting oil change done before dyno run.

Is running my car on the dyno bad for it so to speak, aside from that fact that air is not being forced over the engine as it would be when driving on the road..

Motor mounts my engine (im my opnion ) doesn't move very much but it does move, so I'll keep an eye on that during the run.

I had a compression done when I brought the car a year ago, has less than 5% difference between cylinders

Any other pre-cautions?

 

It's no harder than doing a little WOT run in 4th gear on the street, I don't see why you're so worried about that, VQs have sometimes gone twice that mileage.

 

I'm worried 'cos I have visions of it going pop! Logic says it shouldn't as its no worse than a WOT run without the forced air from car movement.

Well if all goes to plan I should have a Dyno showing:

JDM Cefiro VQ30DE with Factory MEVI + POD (auto, soon 5 speed)

Will be good to see if the JDM ECU performs better than the stock US ECU dynos I've seen.

 

Don't be get a dyno. It be nice to see what kind of #'s the MEVI puts down in stock form.

 

Maxima/Cefiro's with MEVI stock make 193hp at 6400rpm. So MEVI should not lose power at all withthe right tuning, it should only gain. Which you will with the JDM ECU.

 

Where'd you get that low figure from my source says
http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/22250/

Nissan Cefiro 30 Excimo G
Displacement, cc 2987
Engine model VQ30DE
Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 220 ps (161.81 kw) / 6400 rpm
Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 28.5 kg*m (279.49 N*m) / 4400 rpm
Power density 6.27
Engine type V type 6 cylinder DOHC

 

216.9907848 horsepower

Interesting. I know the ACUTAL ME Maxima has no emmisions and makes 225HP. It has a stock "ypipe" I suppose the JDM one has less emmisions too.

The 193hp I got was from the Euro VI maximas.

 

Ahh k cool, I'm very sensitive about my HP

I haven't replace my Y pipe yet but I've heard it doesn't have precats like the US one.

Dyno'ing this saturday so we'll see (I need a new KS so that wil skew results)

 

I think you should get a new KS before you dyno ... it's almost common sense. ... Use the money for the dyno on the KS ...

 

Yeah I think your right .. although dyno(with mixture check) is $60, KS is $350

 

KS is 90

 

just a question but why would you even dyno a car you think can't even make it on a dyno. if your car is up to par then a simple dyno shoudn't even make it break a sweat.

 

 

if it makes you feel any better, when i did my dyno, one of my tires shred apart.

note to all: don't dyno with bald tires lol - technically wheels spin around 100+ mph, right?

 

Make sure your drive belts aren't slipping...

 

When I dyno, max speed is 130mph @ rev limit...

 

Just replaced my power steering belt (alternator was done while ago), So all go on that front.. good point to note though

Another good point, my mate dyno his and was getting major wheel spin.

I'm holding off for a new KS first... and unfortunately they are $NZ350 odd here, I could import one for cheap from US but if it break on the way or something dumb no returns :|

 

You can't really break a knock sensor in shipping...

 

The air that passes over the engine doesn't really cool it much. 95% of the cooling (number pulled from my @rse) is through the radiator, not air passing over the engine. If you had a older Porshe or VW that is air cooled than this might be more of a concern.

Even if your cooling fan was broken, the coolant prolly has a sufficient heat capacity to do a dyno without overheating. Yeah, it would run a little warm, but I doubt it would overheat.

Running a dyno on your car isn't any harder on your car than driving it at WOT from 3k-redline.