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Squeaky brakes after a month?

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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Squeaky brakes after a month?

honestly... people here are talking about divorcing their maximas? I'm really looking into at least a trial seperation.. the list keeps growing..

Anyways.. needed all new brake pads (no rotors according to the mechanic). Did the fronts 4 months ago, and the rears 1 month ago. Now they squeak a lot! Gentle braking.. normal braking.. rainy days.. dry days.. whatever.. squeeeaaak.

Why?!

Any insight?

P.S. put factory pads in
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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i have the same problem put in new pads front and rear and changed my front rotors all about 5 month ago and it still squeaks. my mechanic said that he did another max and its doing the same problem
Old Jul 11, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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After I changed my discs and sanded my pads (They were almost new) the squeking stopped if that is any help to you.
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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I had my mechanic check and re-check the brakes because of a squeal, he said it's normal on maximas, that I had plenty of brake pad left, and that if it was the "warning squeal" I'd know it because it happens when the brakes are NOT on or being used.
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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yea, youll definitely know when the warning 'strip' (piece) is scraping. youll be thinking, why does my car sounds like #$#% ????

But my front brakes squeak like crazy, and my back ones make a scrape noise due to rust. not happy about that
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 12:09 PM
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where did you get your "factory" pads, did your mechanic sell them to you or you picked them up from Nissan dealer?
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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Kinda sounds like you guys got some cheap pads. I've always used OEM Nissan pads in my I35 and never had squealing like you guys describe. My girlfriend's former 4th gen, however, squealed like crazy. Her mechanic had used some cheap replacement pads, and while they were functionally fine, they just made a sh*t ton of noise. I changed them out with some Raybestos QS pads and they were fine.
Old Jul 12, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
Kinda sounds like you guys got some cheap pads. I've always used OEM Nissan pads in my I35 and never had squealing like you guys describe. My girlfriend's former 4th gen, however, squealed like crazy. Her mechanic had used some cheap replacement pads, and while they were functionally fine, they just made a sh*t ton of noise. I changed them out with some Raybestos QS pads and they were fine.
well, my factory pads were so-so, but the factory rotors warped easily and quickly. Got those both replaced at sears auto, now they are squeaky as a mf. The back brakes/rotors (factory originals) squeak sometimes, but they have 50k on them,and are very rust prone now
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 12:54 PM
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My mechanic got the brake pads from a nissan dealership. I believe it's just the rear brakes squeaking since I got those in just a month ago. My fronts were put in about 6 months ago and I don't recall any squeaking like this..

I'm assuming it's just a problem associated with the pads, correct? Should I be considering any other brake component into the problem?
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Blihz
My mechanic got the brake pads from a nissan dealership. I believe it's just the rear brakes squeaking since I got those in just a month ago. My fronts were put in about 6 months ago and I don't recall any squeaking like this..

I'm assuming it's just a problem associated with the pads, correct? Should I be considering any other brake component into the problem?

Have your mechanic check for "hot spots" on the rotors. This usually is caused by uneven rotors.
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 01:49 PM
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I think it's something a little morer than that....
I've always had squeaky brakes on my 4gen.... but when i bought a 5 gen... all gone..... for a while. Recently it has started and i beleive its the retainer plate that holds the pad in place scraping the rotor... that is, unless someone else has a reason that the same pad should not squeak for 10,000 miles and start with plenty of pad left!!!!(and i MEAN plenty)



p.s. to ACERX..... minivans don't suck, it's the a$$holes that drive them!!!
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by StillenMax80x20
I think it's something a little morer than that....
I've always had squeaky brakes on my 4gen.... but when i bought a 5 gen... all gone..... for a while. Recently it has started and i beleive its the retainer plate that holds the pad in place scraping the rotor... that is, unless someone else has a reason that the same pad should not squeak for 10,000 miles and start with plenty of pad left!!!!(and i MEAN plenty)



p.s. to ACERX..... minivans don't suck, it's the a$$holes that drive them!!!

mine were quiet for a long time, now every single one squeaks almost always, and all pads still have a lot of life left in them. i think its just a combination of rust and dirt/dust on the rotors and on the pad itself. If you take everything apart and clean them up, the squeaking will stop temporarily.
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 05:18 PM
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the part about maxima brakes always squeals, is not true. Squealing is usually pad related.

Can you verify he put everything where it should be
the OEM setup from inside piston to outer caliper arm for front brakes are as follows:

piston->shim1(chrome)->shim2->anti-squeal->innerpad> rotor ->outerpad->anti-squeal->shim2->shim1(chrome)->caliper_arm

most repair shops leave out the anti-squeal ... gummy substance, little, but important when it comes to squealing.

hope that helps
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 05:56 PM
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Z
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After I installed my Hawk HPS pads, my brakes would squeal like mad. They were squealing for a good two months, but they've stopped now. Now I think I have a sticky caliper problem, because if I ever brake hard, I begin hearing and feeling a grinding sound when I apply the brakes softly. :\
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MXMS
I had my mechanic check and re-check the brakes because of a squeal, he said it's normal on maximas, that I had plenty of brake pad left, and that if it was the "warning squeal" I'd know it because it happens when the brakes are NOT on or being used.
Hey guys--just to let you guys know that aftermarket brake pads do squeek a lot for maximas---Even the Nissan brake pads can squeek--but we aplly some pbc grease on the back of the pads and shims to fix the squeel--it works really well--the grease is a copper color--my brakes have never squeeled--I only have trouble with rotors from time to time--but I just machine the rotors with an on-the-car Brake lathe---but u can only do that so much. Hope this helps
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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Just be thankful that you can't hear your car coming from like 2 blocks away, like mine. Horrendous squeal when applied and not applied because I need the works, new pads and rotors. Its at the point where I have so step on the gas and brake hard for a little while to have it stop squealing for a few minute period. Its at the point where I try not to drive or take someone else's car. I'm just waiting for my berk intake to come, ordered it monday. When it comes, I will bring it to mechanic for everything to be replaced/installed.
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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I put Kragens best on my Max and they squealed from day one. After only 500 miles I couldn't take it anymore and pulled the tire to find they were grinding away my rotor. They had just enough left on them to be turned and I went back to OEM pads. Once in a while the Nissan dealer sends me a coupon and I got lucky since they sent me one the day before I hadn't thrown it away.

The OEM pads have never squealed on me (96k) and I use the blue anti squeal. Make sure to let them sit for 10-15 minutes to harden like the directions say before placing the anti squeal metal brackets on or it won't work as well. To most Mechanics time is money and they don't want to wait, if they use it at all.
Old Jul 13, 2005 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ Devils Fan
Just be thankful that you can't hear your car coming from like 2 blocks away, like mine. Horrendous squeal when applied and not applied because I need the works, new pads and rotors. Its at the point where I have so step on the gas and brake hard for a little while to have it stop squealing for a few minute period. Its at the point where I try not to drive or take someone else's car. I'm just waiting for my berk intake to come, ordered it monday. When it comes, I will bring it to mechanic for everything to be replaced/installed.
hey man y dont you just cut the squealer off the inside pad--then all u have to worry about is hearing the metal to metal sound
Old Jul 14, 2005 | 08:12 AM
  #19  
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I can't take the rotors off, I don't know how to do crap like that.
Old Jul 14, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bensmax00
hey man y dont you just cut the squealer off the inside pad--then all u have to worry about is hearing the metal to metal sound
you mean for him to cut out the 'time for new pads-warning strip thing'?? (im not sure what its called exactly).
If hes gonna take the time to take all that apart,cut it out,and put it back together...he may as well replace the pads and rotors himself and be done with it. Why go through all that work, just to replace one embarrassing noise with another one??

NJDevils....i think you could do it yourself. Im not saying its easy as changing a tire, but its not like rebuilding your engine either. Im a novice, and was able to take my rotors pads and calipers off,and put them back on,and everything worked well. But if you arent comfortable with it, just deal with the noise and get it done when you get your intake. Forget about cutting that squealer piece off.
Old Jul 14, 2005 | 12:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NJ Devils Fan
I can't take the rotors off, I don't know how to do crap like that.

If you have a 12 and 14 mm wrench you're set. You might need some penetrating oil or breaker bar but disc brakes are cake. Drums have a lot more to deal with.

1) Take the wheel off
2) Remove pad assembly by removing two bolts (I think they're 12 MM)
3) Remove caliper assembly by removing two more bolts
4) Tap rotor with rubber mallet from the backside to free it from hub (not always neccessary.
5) Replace all old stuff with new hotness.
6) Tada, you're a mechanic and you'll get all the girls.
Old Jul 14, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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I just got a '02 and recently the brakes are making a lot of noises. It isn't like a squeal, it kind of sounds like grinding. Now sometimes when I break hard mostly, the steering wheel sounds like there is something loose in it. I was looking around and I saw some things about the rotor thickness variation. I think this might be my problem. The steering wheel bounces around sometimes, but it mostly rattles. Sunday I am bringing it to my Dads, he is a mechanic, hopefully he can fix it by replacing the rotors and hopefully that is the only problem. Not to mention I just got this car a week ago.
Old Jul 14, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by xtantmaxima
If you have a 12 and 14 mm wrench you're set. You might need some penetrating oil or breaker bar but disc brakes are cake. Drums have a lot more to deal with.

1) Take the wheel off
2) Remove pad assembly by removing two bolts (I think they're 12 MM)
3) Remove caliper assembly by removing two more bolts
4) Tap rotor with rubber mallet from the backside to free it from hub (not always neccessary.
5) Replace all old stuff with new hotness.
6) Tada, you're a mechanic and you'll get all the girls.
Now, if I, idk, practiced and tried it on one of the back brakes first and, I don't know, screw up some way, would I still be able to drive and brake enough to make it to the mechanic? I really would like to do that and my intake myself. What would the oil be for?
Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:52 PM
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NJDEVILS FAN.... penetrating oil is to loosen rust so you don't strip your bolts..... if you strip your bolts, you're in trouble(i didn't need the penetrating oil with a y2k max and nasty winters )


anyone know why these brakes scrap so badly? It's not my pads no noise once i hit the brakes.... bad rotors? cause it makes a noise every rotation not the whole rotation and it sounds like a peice of metal scraping something thats sticking out to far, like a warped rotor
Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Make sure you remove the PLASTIC SHIMS from the old pads, CLEAN THEM
REAL GOOD with brake cleaner, wipe dry, and put on the new pads.
You won't get new shims with your new pads, so that's why you reuse.
Your old pads are dirty, and it's hard to notice/see them...but they're there.
They have little tabs that you might have to bend slightly inward so that
they grip/fit the new pads without sliding.

From what I understand, the shims keep the brake pads from squealing.
I've always changed my pads on my 95 and my 03 Maxima. They never
squeak until it gets to the warning tab/wear on the pad itself.

Also, I spend the extra $$$ and get ceramic pads, or equivalent.
No brake dust...guaranteed.

Good luck !
Old Jul 15, 2005 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by instil
you mean for him to cut out the 'time for new pads-warning strip thing'?? (im not sure what its called exactly).
If hes gonna take the time to take all that apart,cut it out,and put it back together...he may as well replace the pads and rotors himself and be done with it. Why go through all that work, just to replace one embarrassing noise with another one??

NJDevils....i think you could do it yourself. Im not saying its easy as changing a tire, but its not like rebuilding your engine either. Im a novice, and was able to take my rotors pads and calipers off,and put them back on,and everything worked well. But if you arent comfortable with it, just deal with the noise and get it done when you get your intake. Forget about cutting that squealer piece off.

I know dude I was just being funny--its amazing you say that cuz people actually do that--then wonder why it costs so much to do a brake job cuz u messed ur rotor up--If you guys are rookies at mechanics you should have someone that you know or take it to a shop that u TRUST--brakes are a safety issue and you don't want to mess it up--just a thought--the job doesnt take but like 30-45mins depending on if you resurface the rotors--we use an on the car brake lathe--but a simple brake lathe works good too
Old Jul 19, 2005 | 07:38 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by StillenMax80x20
NJDEVILS FAN.... penetrating oil is to loosen rust so you don't strip your bolts..... if you strip your bolts, you're in trouble(i didn't need the penetrating oil with a y2k max and nasty winters )


anyone know why these brakes scrap so badly? It's not my pads no noise once i hit the brakes.... bad rotors? cause it makes a noise every rotation not the whole rotation and it sounds like a peice of metal scraping something thats sticking out to far, like a warped rotor
me too. i have the same exact issue and have been told time and time again that it is rust along the outer ring of the rotor which is causing the metal on metal scraping sound i hear. my sound stops when brakes are applied also
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